Dave Smith's Freelander

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Petrols aren't my area, but looking through the Haynes manual none of the engine mounts are over 80 NM apart from right hand mounting bracket to engine that's 170Nm.
Congratulations on the new job, most of us take jobs with less hours as we get older, trust you to be different.
Mike
Cheers Mike. Leaving the railway industry behind and going back into the casino industry. Such larks.
 
They are pretty tight at around 130ftbl. If they are tighter, then they have been put in wet. This makes the steel rust and expand into the aluminium block. I've had them break off due to corrosion before now.
 
I've always found them really tight and use a pole to extend the breaker bar. Plenty of ignorance required. ;)
Just be really careful when refitting as it screws into alloy and it's really easy to cross the threads. Hopefully that's not your problem.
 
Well the blowtorch made cock all difference other than shooting red hot bits all over the engine bay (never a happy thing on a petrol). Can you just remove the whole unit from the front of the engine?
If not then I have issues....
 
Well the blowtorch made cock all difference other than shooting red hot bits all over the engine bay (never a happy thing on a petrol). Can you just remove the whole unit from the front of the engine?
If not then I have issues....
Bigger breaker bar and a lot more ignorance. ;) Tighten a bit first before trying to loosen.
 
I like the idea of a bigger bar. It means I can buy a tool. 1.3m adequate?
Anyone recommend a brand that doesn't just bend when I heave on it? My Sealey one seems to be losing the battle with my excessive weight.
 
Anyone recommend a brand that doesn't just bend when I heave on it? My Sealey one seems to be losing the battle with my excessive weight.

If it is just the bar bending, then stick a length of scaffold tube over the length of it. Just be careful, because the failure point will be the joint or the drive itself, and you will little warning if the bar is not bending.

Do you have access for a 1.3m bar, that will allow a 6 sided socket to fit? that is a long bar?

Cheers
 
Access isn't a problem as the extension clears the top of the engine bay.
Not sure whether the bar is bending or the joint - I had my eyes closed :D
I always use 6 sided sockets for crap like this, especially as I tried my 450Nm impact driver first.
 
The bolts are only supposed to be tightened to around 120Nm iirc. I suspect yours has got water onto the threads. This can lock them up sold, giving the problem you have. I've never come across one that won't undo, with the correct leverage applied though.
 
Aaah. The dreaded 'correct' leverage. I shall endeavour to apply the 'right amount' of torque with 'suitable' levels of swearing.
Get a Freelander they said..... Everything is a reasonable size and easy to work with.. :)
 
Aaah. The dreaded 'correct' leverage. I shall endeavour to apply the 'right amount' of torque with 'suitable' levels of swearing.
Get a Freelander they said..... Everything is a reasonable size and easy to work with.. :)
Normally that's true. The Freelander is generally easy to work on, when compared to the suspension on a D3 for instance!! ;)
 
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I like the idea of a bigger bar. It means I can buy a tool. 1.3m adequate?
Anyone recommend a brand that doesn't just bend when I heave on it? My Sealey one seems to be losing the battle with my excessive weight.
I bought a 3/4" 1.3m bar off ebay for not too many smackers. I think it may have been sealy but can't remember. Only thing is you'll need a 3/4" to 1/2" adaptor if you don't already have one.
 
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