Dashboard Removal

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Doo

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Hi all, I have removed the 4 x 13mm nuts at the bottom, am I to understand I need to remove the cover on the left and the wiper motor on the right at the bottom of the screen in order to get to the other nuts/bolts?

Have to say the screws retaining the ducting for the blower are a real hoot! Who designed this shit? Love to kick his nuts with a set of size 20's o_Oo_O
 
Evening all, yes 2000 V8 P38.

I can see the metal frame under the dash is held in place by bolts and looking at how they are placed, I would need to get in behind both the wiper motor and the metal plate at the other side. It would appear both hold the cabin filters in place.

There are a couple of bastard 8mm bolts pointing to the roof. Passenger side is out, but I cant get to the drivers side one due tot he ducting, but I do love a fight :D
 
by metal frame, do you mean behind the drivers side kick board? the PO of my car cut them with a grinder, then cable-tied back in place.. wouldn't have been my first choice
 
kermit_rr said:
by metal frame, do you mean behind the drivers side kick board? the PO of my car cut them with a grinder, then cable-tied back in place.. wouldn't have been my first choice
Click to expand...

No, the metal frame is likely the whole width of the inside of the car and I can see 2 massive bolts under the plastic panel at the bottom of the screen. They must be at least 21mm so I imagine there is another pair at the bottom of the "A" pillars.

Are you saying they don't need to come out? :eek:

I don't intend cutting anything off.
 
Doo said:
No, the metal frame is likely the whole width of the inside of the car and I can see 2 massive bolts under the plastic panel at the bottom of the screen. They must be at least 21mm so I imagine there is another pair at the bottom of the "A" pillars.

Are you saying they don't need to come out? :eek:

I don't intend cutting anything off.
Click to expand...

If you remove the two large bolts the metal frame can move and you will more than likely not be able to locate the four bolts that go up into the dash on reassembly. So leave them alone. The dash comes out without removing the frame.
 
wammers said:
If you remove the two large bolts the metal frame can move and you will more than likely not be able to locate the four bolts that go up into the dash on reassembly. So leave them alone. The dash comes out without removing the frame.
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me.

Will I still get the carpet out past the frame?
 
Doo said:
Sounds good to me.

Will I still get the carpet out past the frame?
Click to expand...

Don't have a clue didn't touch my carpets. Just be aware that if you do need to move the frame for any reason leave it loose until you have podged and located the four bolts into the dash then tighten it up.
 
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wammers said:
Don't have a clue didn't touch my carpets. Just be aware that if you do need to move the frame for any reason leave it loose until you have podged and located the four bolts into the dash then tighten it up.
Click to expand...

Ahh yes, many times over the years (even with previous experience) I have found myself undoing several nuts/bolts to shimmy something to allow the location of bolts o_O

Was playing with the Smart car last week and fixed the rear wiper motor. Did it all up, only to have to take it apart again after forgetting the rubber bung :rolleyes:
 
Doo said:
Ahh yes, many times over the years (even with previous experience) I have found myself undoing several nuts/bolts to shimmy something to allow the location of bolts o_O

Was playing with the Smart car last week and fixed the rear wiper motor. Did it all up, only to have to take it apart again after forgetting the rubber bung :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Yep never forget the bung. There are several people on here who like rubber bungs apparently. ;):D:D:eek:
 
wammers said:
No you do not need to remove the frame. Advise to DOO was if he did need to remove or loosen it.
Click to expand...

You know Doo ... undo first and worry about it later. What are these f*ck off big bolts on these hinges? Don't look important. Just got to open the gate ... arrrrgggghh, arrrggghhh, f*ck! Where there's blame there's a claim ...
 
Had to remove the left section of the frame to get the duct off so I could remove the blend motor It's gubbed and I suspect the others won't be far behind...

New ones are available at a pocket slapping £180 :confused:

So, then I have the problem of getting them set :( Should I just buy a computer thingy? Which is best for all jobs on a 2000 V8 THOR? And it has to be simple to use by a fat cack handed mess.

I could have a brand new car for the money I've spent on George o_O
 
Doo said:
Had to remove the left section of the frame to get the duct off so I could remove the blend motor It's gubbed and I suspect the others won't be far behind...

New ones are available at a pocket slapping £180 :confused:

So, then I have the problem of getting them set :( Should I just buy a computer thingy? Which is best for all jobs on a 2000 V8 THOR? And it has to be simple to use by a fat cack handed mess.

I could have a brand new car for the money I've spent on George o_O
Click to expand...

Nanocom is best diag. New motors don't need to be set as such on fitting. Whatever you do DO NOT apply power to new motors unless they are in position. Motors are set stop to stop automatically by the HEVAC but not very often. Read RAVE for details. With Nanocom they can be done as required.
 
wammers said:
Nanocom is best diag. New motors don't need to be set as such on fitting. Whatever you do DO NOT apply power to new motors unless they are in position. Motors are set stop to stop automatically by the HEVAC but not very often. Read RAVE for details. With Nanocom they can be done as required.
Click to expand...

No setting eh? Sounds like a plan then. I had read somewhere that some bloke replaced one and it would only allow a certain degree of play (I don't recall the full tale) so he was advised to nano it...

Anyhoo, advice accepted & I have ordered three new motors. May as well since I'm in there.

One more thing.

I need to lift the heater box in order to get the last bit of carpet out. I ended up cutting the driver & passenger side out. But here's a thing, the passenger side always suffers from the AC leakage, yet it was dry whereas the drivers side was wet o_O

The drains, I assume they leak into those wrinkly rubber hoses that go through the trans tunnel? They are slightly twisted and slightly askew, but not a rip or tear in either, so where's the leak??? :eek: Any tips while I'm in there?

Back to the heater box, I've undone 4 bolts that I could see, but she's solid. It also looks like someone was in to fix leaky "O" rings if the state of the ducting on that side is anything to go by :rolleyes: I have to replace the carpet and the only way I can see is remove the AC drain pipes, lift the box about 5mm and wheech it out...

Any better ways?

Thanks :cool:
 
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