dare i ask????

after seeing how a stupid question gets treated here i'm a bit about asking this
the bearing nuts on a rear hubs are not reverse thread??? trying to undo the drivers side rear using a 8 foot bar standing on the end still wont shift it, tried both ways but nothing.

wd40'd it, heated it up still wont give, just want to confirm that it is a normal tread

self tightening like the old rear van axles?Dont think so. yours aint going either way by the sounds of things so wont help ya anyway!

Sorry, not sure on this with the Freelander, though I have had cars in the past that have left hand threads on one side.

This is not a stupid question,
asking how to check your engine oil level however is totally stupid & will be ridiculed.
Hope you get sorted soon.

they're not left hand thread, just bloody tight and "peened" to lock in place

clutchdust said:

they're not left hand thread, just bloody tight and "peened" to lock in place

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Thanks Clutchy, worth remembering for the future.

thanks guys

so any idea on how best to remove, bent a 2ft breaker bar and today welded a extention bar onto 8 foot scaffold bar and that just ripped away, i'm lost now, only thing i can think of is changing the complete hub????

any ideas greatfully recieved

You need a 3/4 drive socket set, best advice run down to local garage, get them to crack the nut and retighten , then drive home steady and then undo with normal sockets, remember to fit new nuts.

I think you need an impact gun. You can by a 12 volt one cheap on ebay, otherwise get a garage to use their gun. For what its worth buy a 12 volt gun as they are very handy.

Ha! Just removed NSR drive shaft nut which I think is the one you are talking about - oh yes tis very tight. very very tight. 400 NM tight to be precise.

Make sure you have knocked out the staked down bit of nut well first - then I suggest using a 32mm impact socket (cos it fits on the flats of the nuts and stops you slipping off) using 1/2 inch drive, used short bar fitted into end of a 5 foot length of box section.

It won't go easily but I used 4 or 5 good goes at it - getting angrier each time - and then on the last go I decided f it and pulled the box section as much as I could - it was bending my short extension bar but then BANG and it freed up.

One note - you will need a new nut on refitting and a torque wrench capable of tightening to 400 NM which in the scale of things is F tight. I ended up borrowing one from work - 3/4 drive........much stronger!

Do not neglect the retightening torque - its an essential safety item - your safety and those around you.

degs said:

I think you need an impact gun. You can by a 12 volt one cheap on ebay, otherwise get a garage to use their gun. For what its worth buy a 12 volt gun as they are very handy.

Click to expand...

if a 8 foot bar wont shift it a 12v impact gun certainly wont - if you peel the labels off the cheap ebay ones it'll say "made by fisher price"

You have no chance with a 12v gun - you'll end up with a very hot impact gun and a flat battery or gassed from exhaust fumes!

Is there not a commercial vehicle garage near you could drive to - have the nut undone there - re tighten to say 200NM and stake, drive home carefully, unstake and remove.

Don't attempt the job if (a) you dont have a torque wrench capable of 400NM or (b) a new driveshaft nut - they are there for your safety and that of others!

On a slight distraction. At that torque, what stops the nut cold welding to the drive shaft? Are they different materials?

12v impact guns ****e...not found one that can remove anything tighter than a wheel nut..

As youve done with breaker bar but put a jack under bar and lift it....if motor starts to lift and nut still not moving give it a couple of "gentle" blows with big hammer.....worked for me