New to LR ownership with a 2006 Vogue with a few issues to sort.

Hi all, new to LR ownership but not scared of a spanner and I think I've picked up a bargain if I can sort some issues.

It's a 2006 3.6TDV8 Vogue automatic.

1. Both side mirrors won't do anything at all, there is no adjustment nor do they fold. The fuses seem to be intact however so a point to where to look would be greatly appreciated.

2. The drivers heated seat is always on. I noticed that after a flat battery and charging it, that the drivers seat was warm and I hadn't even been in the car. Cycling the heated seat button didn't change anything and I had to undo the connector under the seat.

3. The driver's door handle only works at the very end of its range, I'm hoping that's a quick fix as it's still able open the latch but just at a much later point than the passengers handle does.

4. The drivers side auto deploying step seems to park itself much earlier in its range of movement than the passengers side. Is there a way to take it through its full range to help it relearn its limits?

5. There is a big coolant leak I've noticed.
It seems to come out of the rear left side as you're looking from the front (drivers side) as it emptied it's self out. Again a pointer of where to look would be great.

6. The drivers window seems to have come completely loose and doesn't go up and down. Is it likely to fall about if the cable has snapped or has it fallen off a track somewhere?


7. It has a boot leak. I've read a few things that suggest it could be the hinge and you need to clean up the surfaces and fashion a gasket. What should I fashion the gasket out of?
The sunroof drains are all cleared out and flowing well so I'm pretty certain it isn't them.


I think that's all for now.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and thank you for any answers or pointers.

Welcome .

I would think 3,5 & 6 are your biggest worries to begin with although Damp in the back can cause loads of issues too.

Under what circumstance's does it drop its fluid. I.E is it just cold and filling it, is it after/during driving.

I will have a dig to see what info I can help with.

J

Had a quick look.

All I have on the steps, but if you look at the wiring dias it appears there are some "hall effect" sensors, maybe its just dirty somewhere.

2007 is the 3.6 but only the basics.

the 3rd shows the FBH plumbing but I cant say its the same for the 3.6 (i think that 1 shows 4.4 petrol so maybe ignore) but it could be similar.

There are so many pipes in the engine bay these days its like a needle in a haystack from you description

As for the window and handle, get the door card off and see where the slack is in both/either .

HTH

J

marjon said:

Had a quick look.

All I have on the steps, but if you look at the wiring dias it appears there are some "hall effect" sensors, maybe its just dirty somewhere.

2007 is the 3.6 but only the basics.

the 3rd shows the FBH plumbing but I cant say its the same for the 3.6 (i think that 1 shows 4.4 petrol so maybe ignore) but it could be similar.

There are so many pipes in the engine bay these days its like a needle in a haystack from you description

As for the window and handle, get the door card off and see where the slack is in both/either .

HTH

J

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Thank you for the help so far! I'll have to get some coolant as all I have at the minute is G13 for a Skoda. What coolant or equivalent does the 3.6 take? I can't see it on the coolant cap and I'll pop to get some.

To answer the when does it leak question. I don't really know. I only know it dumped a refill of a full header tank and I noticed it after a drive where it was coming out quite quickly which makes me think a pipe around the back rather than a stat failure which I believe is up front in the V?

I didn't know I had a FBH so I'll take a look into that too. Hopefully I do then the nice pre warm function will be a welcome in winter (and getting the drivers seat heater sorted)

You need to establish were its leak so much before adding expensive coolant. if you can replicate it on the drive (not driving it) then I would just say top it up with water to find what's leaking, it sounds like its quite big once up to heat.
Dont leave it full of water obviously.
DO you have an owners manual?

This is from my 2007 manual for the 3.6.

J

marjon said:

You need to establish were its leak so much before adding expensive coolant. if you can replicate it on the drive (not driving it) then I would just say top it up with water to find what's leaking, it sounds like its quite big once up to heat.
Dont leave it full of water obviously.
DO you have an owners manual?

This is from my 2007 manual for the 3.6.

J

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Unfortunately not. The lady I bought it off couldn't find it when she brought her stuff in. Had a lot of the repair bills though so that was nice.

Feeling like I don't want to fill it full of water with the current snap

While tracing the leak, don't bother with anti-freeze, just use water. Then after it's fixed, drain the system & refill with correct mix.

Best way on any engine, is to get it warmed up to normal temp, switch off and then use a coolant pressure tester. That way there's no fans blowing coolant everywhere !!

So far I've managed to see that the fluid that is leaking is a blue colour

That is from just under the drivers front rocker cover area

Looking down from the first picture directly below that pipe.

I can't see any blue fluid anywhere in a reservoir

Also. The coolant temp sensor seems to be unresponsive. It's in the middle of the blue of the gauge although the cabin heaters work.

Also. There is no hot air coming from the rear passenger vents.

Coolant should be red/pink OAT. God knows r.e the blue fluid! Especially in that area. Could be something spilt as its just sitting on the cam cover moulding. Has engine bay been cleaned with anything?

I can't think of anywhere around there that would leak out so fast but I aint been under my bonnet for a while

If it is coolant get it sorted as these blow head gaskets, ask me how I know. Any leaks should show pink calcified residue

Check pipes to and from expansion bottle are all OK, they can rub thru. Theres a hose goes from front of engine to bottom of expansion tank, its got a U in it, I had to repair a previous bodge but I don't think I caught it in time.

Check all the coolant pipes at the front of the engine. Theres a nest of them thats supplied as one unit, plenty of places to chafe thru.

Check all around your FBH if fitted and the 2 heat exchange valves for leaks. One single solenoid valve on the passenger side bulkhead, under the AC pipes and a double solenoid for FBH on passenger inner arch

Coolant temp sensor is in thermo housing iirc, you're right its in the V near the front. Check for leaks from thermo housing - Look down around the oil filter housing for coolant residue.

I have been told these have got about 3 or 4 seperate thermostats for different reasons.

Might be worth doing a sniff test for combustion gases in coolant

All your other stuff is niggly, apart from boot water ingress. Don't even get involved in that caper until you know that engine is behaving or it'll bite you in the arse.

What's the mileage?

Not being nasty but thats doesn't sound a very well cared for car, I'd advise you to really go to town checking the engine and gearbox before you go any deeper mate.

They look fookin lovely then you start poking around and by God, they like to hide some shìte

Check MAP sensors are clean, you don't want to see oil on them, a bit of dirty dust is ok

check intercooler hoses for oil, a thin film is OK

Have you got diagnostics?

Have you taken the sill covers off yet?

Looks like a new intercooler hose, far one with arrow.

Circled a spot on the other one, looks like a small split in pic..? This hose looks a bit sweaty with oil as well



Can see the harness has been stripped back before now as well, some fir trees missing. Have a look down either side for the EGRs, you might be able to make out if they've had blanking plates fitted or even the short section of exhaust side pipes removed and both ends blanked

I actually don't know the location of the FBH tbh. It says heat or cool on the info unit but unsure if it does.

The coolant temp gauge moved after 30mins running so that's good.
But nothing happened to the rear heat.

The blue just drips every 5 seconds or so it's a bit strange as there seems to be nothing around. Drips onto the subframe at the rear of the engine. Can't find anything else blue at all

160k is the mileage, she seemed to love it but got a bit sick of doing bits to it.
In the last year:

All four tyres
Front and rear brakes
Two rear upper arm bushes
A new battery (which seems to have gone again)
2x front CV boots
NSF suspension

Not things that are surprising to need done tbh but a fair chunk of cash with no DIY.

I've not taken the sill covers off but there is rear arch rust.

I don't have diag. I've got OBDeleven for VAG but only a basic code reader for anything else, never needed more for my MG

I'll have to get taking the front stuff off to get to the stat to have a look. From a quick poke with a torch I couldn't see any white residue on the couple of pipes I could see.


The boot had a nice little pond in it. I got rid of that. I noticed the very rear nearside bit of headlining was a bit damp and the spoiler seems to hold a lot of water which tipped our when I opened the boot.



I'm looking forward to a bit of tinkering but having a 2yo and another on the way limits my time.

If I need to move it on I will, I paid less than a grand for it so I'm in it for the experience really.

I did an off road experience through LR @ peckforton in Cheshire the other weekend and that was good fun.

1988smithy said:

Looks like a new intercooler hose, far one with arrow.

Circled a spot on the other one, looks like a small split in pic..? This hose looks a bit sweaty with oil as well

View attachment 303627

Can see the harness has been stripped back before now as well, some fir trees missing. Have a look down either side for the EGRs, you might be able to make out if they've had blanking plates fitted or even the short section of exhaust side pipes removed and both ends blanked

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I love how you get the experience of enthusiastic owners who can see things like that.

I can look at a Rover (not land rover mind you) engine bay from early late 80's until they went under and can see issues no problem the KV6 I'm a dab hand at as I had to rebuild mine.

I'll take a look at those. Could you point a rough arrow at them so I can see where to look please.

I'll look at the IC hose in the daylight tomorrow too.

Thanks a lot folks.

calskil said:

I love how you get the experience of enthusiastic owners who can see things like that.

I can look at a Rover (not land rover mind you) engine bay from early late 80's until they went under and can see issues no problem the KV6 I'm a dab hand at as I had to rebuild mine.

I'll take a look at those. Could you point a rough arrow at them so I can see where to look please.

I'll look at the IC hose in the daylight tomorrow too.

Thanks a lot folks.

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I'm not enthusiastic about l322s any more

Have a look in the freelander section, your kv6 experience will be appreciated i think

I'll take a pic of mine when I get chance and point out the EGRs

If you're engines good it'd make a good car out of mine

Get yourself a GOOD diagnostics unit, it will pay for itself in no time and save you a fortune as well as a lot of time!

Had a look at the MAFs, seem to be oily rather than dusty. I'd give them a clean but ive ran out of carb cleaner so will have to get some.

The IC pipe doesn't seem like a split per-se, but there is oil around the start of and the end of that pipe so I may just replace it anyway.

Looked around the oil filter and couldn't see any residue but don't have time to run it to temp at the moment.

calskil said:

Drips onto the subframe at the rear of the engine. Can't find anything else blue at all

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The AC drains (would expect the heater matrix area too as well) drop fluid out in that area .

Have you actually looked into why you have "blue fluid" if you do?

The only reason I can see for the temp gauge not to work and then sudden does is you have air locked in the system.
No water contact sensor wont work.

Maybe you should first drain the system (find out what you have) then refill and bleed correctly,

What was the last work done on the car looking at the bills?

J

marjon said:

The AC drains (would expect the heater matrix area too as well) drop fluid out in that area .

Have you actually looked into why you have "blue fluid" if you do?

The only reason I can see for the temp gauge not to work and then sudden does is you have air locked in the system.
No water contact sensor wont work.

Maybe you should first drain the system (find out what you have) then refill and bleed correctly,

What was the last work done on the car looking at the bills?

Click to expand...

The last bit of work was the rear upper arm bushes before a tyre and a headlight for an MOT. I can't remember what date the upper arms were but it was '23

The coolant itself is pink after a top up with just water. Tbh not much to top it up so I'm wondering if it's a bit of a leaky reservoir but I can't see that.

Can't see another drop of blue anywhere in any reservoir!

The heater dial was a slow gradual build up of "temp" rather than a jump but it could still be an airlock and it's just the air in the system gradually warming.

I'll have to look into the draining and bleedpoints, they aren't as easy to see as on a Rover

Not sure if this will be of help to you but have a read through this lot: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...hen-coolant-leak-and-cracked-manifold.381697/

When I got mine it had a very slight coolant leak which quickly escalated. It was the alloy pipe set on the NS inner wing that had a pinhole in one of them and that made it drip on to the chassis rail and run out of the back of the subframe as well as the front and across to the OSF too. It wasn't hugely expensive to resolve but you have to buy the part from LR as it is only for the L322 and I would suggest replacing the two control solenoids at the same time as it will be easier and you won't want to revisit this job.

FBH is in the wheel arch on the NS under the battery BTW. Not too bad to change at all but I'd doubt that is where your leak is.

Keep us informed.