D2 TD5 PAS steering box replacement

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Stevehh said:
Thanks Sierrasafery.
I think it would be a good idea to remove the alternator and have a look. Dont fancy paying £150 for a replacement alternator if its an O ring problem. However I have seen pictures of other O rings including seals around the fixing bolls too. Also shaft seals from Denzo and Toyota so maybe a new alternator plus pump is the best way to go.
So how easy (difficult) is it to get the alternator off the vehicle. I have ordered viscous fan spanner have read Rave, but are there any tricks I should know please?
Steve
Click to expand...
removing egr unit helps access,return pipe for vac pumps can be tricky ,and its best if someone holds the captive nut when fitting bottom alt bolt
 
Stevehh said:
Thanks Sierrasafery.
I think it would be a good idea to remove the alternator and have a look. Dont fancy paying £150 for a replacement alternator if its an O ring problem. However I have seen pictures of other O rings including seals around the fixing bolls too. Also shaft seals from Denzo and Toyota so maybe a new alternator plus pump is the best way to go.
So how easy (difficult) is it to get the alternator off the vehicle. I have ordered viscous fan spanner have read Rave, but are there any tricks I should know please?
Steve
Click to expand...
I'm pleased that you've got me started with this cos as i said mine is weeping too and trying to help you and myself i asked down under and i've got this answer: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2-a/263674-td5-vacuum-pump-o-ring.html#post2827907 ... though i'll not do anythig before you tell me how :D
 
sierrafery said:
I'm pleased that you've got me started with this cos as i said mine is weeping too and trying to help you and myself i asked down under and i've got this answer: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2-a/263674-td5-vacuum-pump-o-ring.html#post2827907 ... though i'll not do anythig before you tell me how :D
Click to expand...
OK Mate, Viscous Fan spanners on their way. Havent even seen the back bolt for the alternator yet! I will report back when I have the damn thing off and on the bench, so dont hold your breath.:eek:)
 
I have more patience than i seem to...especially when it comes to do some mechanical work :cool: ...anyway if it turns out to exceed my skills i'll buy a new alternator rather than fiddle with it
 
Stevehh said:
OK Mate, Viscous Fan spanners on their way. Havent even seen the back bolt for the alternator yet! I will report back when I have the damn thing off and on the bench, so dont hold your breath.:eek:)
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there isnt a back bolt iits a nu for front lower bolt bits a loose fit in a slot that can fall out or cross thread when refitting the bolt if you dont hold it with your finger etc, if the o ring on vac pump back plate was leaking a little oil resistant silicone sealant on the o ring would fix that,if its seal id be reluctant to change that as its more likely a sign alt bearings are getting a little play ,and it wont leak all the time to start with, but times when charge rate suddenly varies
 
jamesmartin said:
there isnt a back bolt iits a nu for front lower bolt bits a loose fit in a slot that can fall out or cross thread when refitting the bolt if you dont hold it with your finger etc, if the o ring on vac pump back plate was leaking a little oil resistant silicone sealant on the o ring would fix that,if its seal id be reluctant to change that as its more likely a sign alt bearings are getting a little play ,and it wont leak all the time to start with, but times when charge rate suddenly varies
Click to expand...
James, Sorry to sound a pain in the arse, but you are such a helpful bloke you might be able to help on the next issue. I eventually had the viscous coupling fan spanners delivered and removed the fan OK. This gave me access to the belt tensioner and its LH threaded nut came of easily. I can now see the out-put hose from the vacumm pump ready for removal and I think the lower front bolt on the alternator. This looks as if it's not a normal bolt head. It seems to be a internal 12 sided T50 Torx insert. Is the correct lower mounting bolt for the alternator?
 
Stevehh said:
James, Sorry to sound a pain in the arse, but you are such a helpful bloke you might be able to help on the next issue. I eventually had the viscous coupling fan spanners delivered and removed the fan OK. This gave me access to the belt tensioner and its LH threaded nut came of easily. I can now see the out-put hose from the vacumm pump ready for removal and I think the lower front bolt on the alternator. This looks as if it's not a normal bolt head. It seems to be a internal 12 sided T50 Torx insert. Is the correct lower mounting bolt for the alternator?
Click to expand...
If I recall, "8" is in fact a T50 Torx bolt.
Also there is a metal... err what do you call it, long washer thing..inside the mount for the torx bolt, that on mine got stuck between the alternator and mount, putting the bolt in from the back and a few taps with the hammer pushed it back into place forthe atlernaotr to come out... If that makes sense, little too much to drink o_O
 

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Jamiegreen said:
If I recall, "8" is in fact a T50 Torx bolt.
Also there is a metal... err what do you call it, long washer thing..inside the mount for the torx bolt, that on mine got stuck between the alternator and mount, putting the bolt in from the back and a few taps with the hammer pushed it back into place forthe atlernaotr to come out... If that makes sense, little too much to drink o_O
Click to expand...
OK for those reading this thread think that they might change their own alternator. Dont bother, it's a pig of a job. if your a sadist or more importantly a competent mechanic, which I am nether, then OK.
So I got the bottom T50 Hex bolt out (another £20 for new sockets), managed to swing the alternator off the brackets, freed the bottom oil return hose, Jezz thats in an awkward position, and now cannot shift the electrical connector off the back of the beast. Rave says "disconnect multi plug", yer right.....how? I've pushed, pulled, gripped, poked and am about to cut the pig off.
So a simple question from a equally simple gutter spanner basher How do you remove the multi-plus from the rear of the alternator.
Thanks guys
 
Stevehh said:
OK for those reading this thread think that they might change their own alternator. Dont bother, it's a pig of a job. if your a sadist or more importantly a competent mechanic, which I am nether, then OK.
So I got the bottom T50 Hex bolt out (another £20 for new sockets), managed to swing the alternator off the brackets, freed the bottom oil return hose, Jezz thats in an awkward position, and now cannot shift the electrical connector off the back of the beast. Rave says "disconnect multi plug", yer right.....how? I've pushed, pulled, gripped, poked and am about to cut the pig off.
So a simple question from a equally simple gutter spanner basher How do you remove the multi-plus from the rear of the alternator.
Thanks guys
Click to expand...
Well, the multi-plug on the rear of the alternator is removed by depressing the tab (part of the loom connector) and pulling damn hard, you may need to use large pliers here.
Now the alternator and pump are on the bench (floor) I have removed the pump from the alternator. It would seem there are two oil prevention seals. One inside the rear plate of the pump and one on the shaft of the Denso alternator. These two together stop oil leaking from the vacumm pump. The question is are they available?
 
Stevehh said:
Well, the multi-plug on the rear of the alternator is removed by depressing the tab (part of the loom connector) and pulling damn hard, you may need to use large pliers here.
Now the alternator and pump are on the bench (floor) I have removed the pump from the alternator. It would seem there are two oil prevention seals. One inside the rear plate of the pump and one on the shaft of the Denso alternator. These two together stop oil leaking from the vacumm pump. The question is are they available?
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by the time those seals wear theres likely to be wear in the bearings,a new alt is best advice id think
 
jamesmartin said:
by the time those seals wear theres likely to be wear in the bearings,a new alt is best advice id think
Click to expand...
Thanks as always James. I had a nagging thought that might be the case. It's a Land Rover Denso alternator so guess it is the original part hence 15 years old. Now where to find the best value (cheapest) replacement alternator and pump...….
 
Stevehh said:
OK for those reading this thread think that they might change their own alternator. Dont bother, it's a pig of a job. if your a sadist or more importantly a competent mechanic, which I am nether, then OK.
So I got the bottom T50 Hex bolt out (another £20 for new sockets), managed to swing the alternator off the brackets, freed the bottom oil return hose, Jezz thats in an awkward position, and now cannot shift the electrical connector off the back of the beast. Rave says "disconnect multi plug", yer right.....how? I've pushed, pulled, gripped, poked and am about to cut the pig off.
So a simple question from a equally simple gutter spanner basher How do you remove the multi-plus from the rear of the alternator.
Thanks guys
Click to expand...
The first I did one I thought the same thing, now I’ve done a couple i can do them in half hour or so.
The multiplug I can’t tell you exactly, I think it’s just a pretty standard push in tab and pull plug. And they do get pretty well stuck, Just look for the part you need to press in and try wiggling it out.
 
Jamiegreen said:
The first I did one I thought the same thing, now I’ve done a couple i can do them in half hour or so.
The multiplug I can’t tell you exactly, I think it’s just a pretty standard push in tab and pull plug. And they do get pretty well stuck, Just look for the part you need to press in and try wiggling it out.
Click to expand...
Hi Jamie,
Yes, that's always the case. I'm doing the steering knuckle ball joints at the same time and I feel sure that the second side will take half the time that this first side is taking.
Anyway I've robbed a bank and a replacement Chinese ERR6999 is on it's way. hopefully the re-assembly will be a little easier on the alternator.
 
Stevehh said:
Hi Jamie,
Yes, that's always the case. I'm doing the steering knuckle ball joints at the same time and I feel sure that the second side will take half the time that this first side is taking.
Anyway I've robbed a bank and a replacement Chinese ERR6999 is on it's way. hopefully the re-assembly will be a little easier on the alternator.
Click to expand...
The new alternator is in and working, I went for a RollCom ALT336 from Advanced Factor at £132.00 all in. It includes the pump now on to the ball joints
Stevehh said:
Hi Jamie,
Yes, that's always the case. I'm doing the steering knuckle ball joints at the same time and I feel sure that the second side will take half the time that this first side is taking.
Anyway I've robbed a bank and a replacement Chinese ERR6999 is on it's way. hopefully the re-assembly will be a little easier on the alternator.
Click to expand...
 
Stevehh said:
The new alternator is in and working, I went for a RollCom ALT336 from Advanced Factor at £132.00 all in. It includes the pump now on to the ball joints
Click to expand...
Lovely news. I think I will be going for that company when I have to buy a new alt/pump for my replacement engine. I see them on ebay a lot, seems a good price.. and I guess time will tell reliability.
 
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