D1 - Bolt size going through fron chassis

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stretchie_

stretchie_

Active Member
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476
Location
Gloucester
Hi there. Just wondering if anyone can tell me the bolt size going through the front chassis? I can't remember I think it also goes through the bumper mount?? Not with my Disco so can't check.

My mate has just bought a Disco 1 and I'm taking him out on Sunday.

He only has the standard recovery point, which alot of people don't seem to have a lot of confidence in, at the front on the passenger side. I put some good recovery points on mine so still have my original one knocking around which I could put on the drivers side so it would share the load between the two points instead of just one so if he needs pulling out from anywhere there will only be half the strain put on each.

I THINK it was an M12 at 160mm long?? Can anyone confirm, I can get him to buy the bolts and I'll fit them when I see him on Sunday before we set off.

Ta
 
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Until he gets some decent recovery points (JATE rings or part of a steering guard) then he would have to use the bit ringed in the picture below, people do not seem to hold this in great esteem.

downloadfile.jpg


So I was thinking that if I put my old one on the other chassis rail on the drivers side, it would at least share the load between the two points and make it better/safer until he gets the aftermarket recovery points.
 
Id still be cautious about recovery from them.Im sure there fine for on road towing but dunno about being a bit more vigorus
 
Been having a look and found them for £15+ each and want's a pair, but having said that he might be buying a steering guard with towing rings built in but UNTIL he gets them he is currently left with just that one ring.

JATE ring wise though, neither of us like the idea of the welded JATE rings which you can get for cheaper, if/when either of us gets some we want the forged ones.

I just thought that bunging the second standard one on the other side will at least make it a bit better until he gets a proper solution.
 
Cheers, anyone bought these. Always been a bit weary of getting things like this that are not rated. e.g. all my shackles and strops are rated for a certain weight, that way I KNOW thay aren't going to break.


Might have a go at these but just wondering what other people think
 
FWIW:

We've just bought a Disco 2 chassis to refurb, it's gone down to the stripper to be baked and get the paint off, then it will be shot blasted and hot Zinc sprayed before being powder coated in semi-glass black.

The actual chassis material is 14swg steel, with two layers at selected points, while the brackets vary between 2mm and 3mmsteel.

Just bolting a ring to the chassis is liable to cause local distortion if it gets a decent tug, so I'd go for something like a 4mm or 5mm plate which can have multiple attachment points to spread the load, then bolt or weld your recovery ring to that.

Peter
 
listerdiesel said:
FWIW:

We've just bought a Disco 2 chassis to refurb, it's gone down to the stripper to be baked and get the paint off, then it will be shot blasted and hot Zinc sprayed before being powder coated in semi-glass black.

The actual chassis material is 14swg steel, with two layers at selected points, while the brackets vary between 2mm and 3mmsteel.

Just bolting a ring to the chassis is liable to cause local distortion if it gets a decent tug, so I'd go for something like a 4mm or 5mm plate which can have multiple attachment points to spread the load, then bolt or weld your recovery ring to that.

Peter
Click to expand...

crikey Pierrre - how much is that gonna set yu back?
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
crikey Pierrre - how much is that gonna set yu back?
Click to expand...

Not a million pounds I hope, we bought just the bare chassis, no running gear, nothing.

Ours is not badly rusted yet (1999 Disco 2) but looking at it you can see where it is starting to take hold, so this spare chassis will go under it while the real chassis gets the same treatment.

The body is excellent, so as a long-term punt, we are looking at 10 year ownership with no major problems. Just fitted a new short motor, axles and boxes are sound and quiet, also have a pair of '03 axles and a 1999 gearbox/transfer box, plus lots of running parts from fleabay.

We, like most of us here, couldn't afford to go into a main dealer for a new gearbox, but we can and do all our own spanner work (truck/diesel fitter for 40+ years)

Once the chassis is done and painted, I'll post some pictures, should be within a fortnight.

I'll also give the details of the small firm we use, it's down by Waltham Abbey, just off J26 of the M25, about 75 miles from where we are located.

Peter
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
duz that mean yu are having it done, but dont know how much its gonna cost - or that yu dont wanna tell us?
Click to expand...

It means it's gonna be done regardless of what it is gonna cost :D I'd guess at a couple of hundred squids, maybe £250. A new chassis is £2400 plus VAT. I'm ditching the ACE system while I am at it, the 03 axles came with solid anti-roll bars and shockers :)

It's not the money outlay, it's the thought of having to ditch the bl**dy thing in 5 years time when the chassis fails the MOT!

Disco 2 bodies seem to be far better protected than the Disco 1's but the chassis has almost no protection at all for some strange reason.

Peter
 
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lerk said:
£999,999 then... wonder if there's a galvanising tank in the country big enough to drive the entire car into???? hmm... Stones meets terminator 2!:D
Click to expand...

I'd settle for 10% of that :D

The hot Zinc is actually a process that can be done by a mobile unit. After shotblasting, the Zinc is in the form of a pure Zinc wire that is passed through a high-pressure gas flame which melts it and blows it straight on to the roughened metal surface, where it forms an excellent bond.

We've been using this process for 10+ years on refurbing old railway equipment. If you don't do the Zinc spray after shotblasting, the rust comes back after a year, but with the Zinc is doesn't come back at all.

Pictures of our trailer which we put some stiffeners onto a few years back are here. You can see the surface before painting in the shots.

http://www.stationary-engine.co.uk/Trailer/trailer3.htm

Peter
 
lerk said:
Me!
Click to expand...

Cool, are they alright, do the job?

And where are they mounted? Does the bolt that goes through them replace the lower bumper mounting bolt? Could you let me know because I'll get him to start soaking it in WD40 before I see him on Sunday morning

Cheers

listerdiesel said:
Just bolting a ring to the chassis is liable to cause local distortion if it gets a decent tug, so I'd go for something like a 4mm or 5mm plate which can have multiple attachment points to spread the load, then bolt or weld your recovery ring to that.

Peter
Click to expand...

Cheers mate, he's bought them and they should be on the way but I'll mention about getting some thick bracket or something to spread the load over a few mounting points.

Here is what I have on mine, I think he'll end up getting a steering guard which has these as the bits taht are attached to the chassis, the two holes in the middle are where the bumper mounting bolts go through it, and then it's attached further back, I think where the streering rod mounting is

IMAGE_075.jpg



IMAGE_078.jpg


10mm thick steel and hard as a northern woman with a fighting handbag full of bricks
 
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