Disco 2 Clutch replacement - Expert Advice needed please

Thanks. I can do those two jobs (just bought a welder), do they have perfect circular holes where the bush goes? Thats the main defect with mine which I can't see me doing with a welder. I think mine has been without a bush for a long while and the ball he worn the inside of the hole unevenly which may be why it doesn't hold onto bushes even when clipped in.

john snoo said:

Thanks. I can do those two jobs (just bought a welder), do they have perfect circular holes where the bush goes? Thats the main defect with mine which I can't see me doing with a welder. I think mine has been without a bush for a long while and the ball he worn the inside of the hole unevenly which may be why it doesn't hold onto bushes even when clipped in.

Click to expand...

if it wont hold a ball and nylon cage with snap ring its buggered, and ill send you one of mine to weld up and change pin on

Well i think it's holding one, it did snap in, its only slightly out of shape around the top, but i THINK the previous owner told me when I bought it (8 months ago) that he had JUST replaced that bush, and the gear problem turned up after only 1000-2000 miles so my thinking is that its out of shape enough to let the bush work loose under load, hence yeah I reckon its worth welding up the ramp and changing pin on one without a worn hole! Thanks!

Maybe you could PM me (or I can ping you?) so I can sort payment out

Does anyone know what this yoke (FTC4247/FTC4622) is made of? Is it cast iron, steel...? Need to know before I try welding! I have a mig witha stick attachment, was thinking mig but my friend reckons mig wont do it. any advice appreciated

john snoo said:

Does anyone know what this yoke (FTC4247/FTC4622) is made of? Is it cast iron, steel...? Need to know before I try welding! I have a mig witha stick attachment, was thinking mig but my friend reckons mig wont do it. any advice appreciated

Click to expand...

cast steel it will mig weld ok i do quite a few as part of a box rebuild

Phew, thanks very much. I was panicking for a minute as cast iron is well beyond my almost non-existent welding abilities
(PS I will be practicing and getting good before I weld up the ramp!)

Mine is also worn (did not have reverse light), I also wanted to remove and weld, but the screw fixing the yoke to the shaft could not be moved (even with special heavy duty tools) and before causing any bigger damage on the shaft I gave up and made a longer reversing switch
As yours already out you can try to weld, but take care of too much heat and possible deformation (but in worst case you can get an other one from james).

haha. thanks. james is a true gent indeed.
Nice idea to extend reverse switch! Is that switch just for activating reverse lights then, not mechanical?

john snoo said:

haha. thanks. james is a true gent indeed.
Nice idea to extend reverse switch! Is that switch just for activating reverse lights then, not mechanical?

Click to expand...

yes

Well jamesmartin is a true gent. Sent me a second hand yoke. I have to fit new pin in it. I bought a pin but it goes in loose, i was expecting to need to grip it in vice to press it in but i can pop it in and out with fingers. It will obviously drop into gearbox so wondering what best way to secure it is, if anyone knows? Weld is the only thing I can think of, assuming it's gotta be solid so it doesn't drop into gearbox. Any tips appreciated

Loctite ?

I don't know. Don't want to guess at it considering what happens if i feck it up and it falls out! I always thought loctite worked inside a thread, not sure it will secure two smooth pieces of metal together especially in such a sensitive spot. Not sure how much clearance the top of the selector pin needs, a blob of weld at top of it (under the yoke) would be good, but it might foul the gate. not sure yet, but anyone who has had to do this when it wouldn't press in, please shout!

john snoo said:

Well jamesmartin is a true gent. Sent me a second hand yoke. I have to fit new pin in it. I bought a pin but it goes in loose, i was expecting to need to grip it in vice to press it in but i can pop it in and out with fingers. It will obviously drop into gearbox so wondering what best way to secure it is, if anyone knows? Weld is the only thing I can think of, assuming it's gotta be solid so it doesn't drop into gearbox. Any tips appreciated

Click to expand...

What held the pin in place originally?? Is it an Interference fit where the pin is a few thou bigger than the hole. We used to have a wee trick where you dabbed the pin or shaft with a centre punch and the raised edge of the mark held it tight.

Thanks, yes its an interference fit and that sounds like a neat idea, if it works! all new to me this! so you would smack a punch onto the side of the shaft on top of pin, so it grips when pushed in. Interesting!

Also interesting, I have just removed the top of gearbox again to go at this job and get old yoke out. I see creamy residue on underside of top plate (as i noticed last time i removed it) but this time I also see RUST on various bits inside. Should I be as worried as I am about that?!

PS I haven't changed the oil yet, that's last job after welding/fitting new yoke.
I also have rust on underside of lid and the ball at bottom of gear stick in lid

this pic is even more concerning

john snoo said:

PS I haven't changed the oil yet, that's last job after welding/fitting new yoke.
I also have rust on underside of lid and the ball at bottom of gear stick in lid

Click to expand...

You have now exposed things to air. If there’s moisture on the surface of any non ferrous metal when exposed to air you’ll get rust !!

meego said:

You have now exposed things to air. If there’s moisture on the surface of any non ferrous metal when exposed to air you’ll get rust !!

Click to expand...

in a gearbox with oil in it? lid was only off for a day! either way, should i be scrubbing thatt rust off or just get it done and sealed with new oil asap?
thanks

i just noticed the yoke jamesmartin sent me is very slightly different. does anyone know if it will be ok or if they have to be identical? maybe one is newer design, they both have same FTC number so hoping they both will work in R380 ?