Clutch and gear change issues - hope it's not a new box job!

Hi guys,

I've already bought a new clutch and DMF for my TD5, but I'm still unsure about the gearbox. The clutch pedal is really heavy, and sometimes when I go from neutral into first while stationary I get a crunch - surely this should not be happening if the clutch is disengaged? Well thats what makes me think the clutch is naffed anyway along with the slipping when I give it the beans. Also it crunches on the move between 1st and 2nd and then a little bit in 2d to 3rd - could this be knackered syncros or could the clutch be the issue again? It needs an oil change at least I reckon. Also I've read about clutches dragging, how do I go about checking for this and fixing it? It definitely feels like it's not disengaging fully and a new clutch may not fix this necessarily if there's something else wrong.

If I can avoid shelling out for a recon gearbox I'd be very happy, so if anyone has similar experiences I'd be keen to hear about them .

Hopefully a new clutch, DMF and oil will solve it but my hopes aren't high - it's done 120k. I really don't fnacy getting that bloody great lump out.

Will.

as you describe things IMO 99% the new clutch kit will solve it, put a new pushrod too cos it's cheap... the old rod in mine was 2mm shorter due wear on the fork side

open the bleed nipple a bit while you release the slave cylinder otrerwise there is the risk to hurt the internal seal as the pressure will push the piston further than when it's stopped by the pushrod ... believe me it happens quite often especially if the cylinder is old then you'll not be able to bleed well the system again

depends on your budget but if after the clutch cheange you'll feel the pedal too hard a good thing would be to replace the master and slave cylinders after you let the fluid out and blow through the piping cos as it wears out small pieces of rubber might leave the master cylinder and clog the circuit

IMO if you do all these things it'll be good again...Good luck

you can check for clutch dragging by selecting gears with engine off and then seeing difference with engine on a clutch fully depressed, symptoms could be dragging clutch ,poor oil or worn baulkrings,oil change will prove oil issue ,

sierrafery said:

as you describe things IMO 99% the new clutch kit will solve it, put a new pushrod too cos it's cheap... the old rod in mine was 2mm shorter due wear on the fork side

open the bleed nipple a bit while you release the slave cylinder otrerwise there is the risk to hurt the internal seal as the pressure will push the piston further than when it's stopped by the pushrod ... believe me it happens quite often especially if the cylinder is old then you'll not be able to bleed well the system again

depends on your budget but if after the clutch cheange you'll feel the pedal too hard a good thing would be to replace the master and slave cylinders after you let the fluid out and blow through the piping cos as it wears out small pieces of rubber might leave the master cylinder and clog the circuit

IMO if you do all these things it'll be good again...Good luck

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ive obviously heard about slackening bleed nipple ,but its not necessary on lrs and possibly opening up more issues

sierrafery said:

as you describe things IMO 99% the new clutch kit will solve it, put a new pushrod too cos it's cheap... the old rod in mine was 2mm shorter due wear on the fork side

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Is this the right part? Slave Cylinder Push Rod - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

jamesmartin said:

you can check for clutch dragging by selecting gears with engine off and then seeing difference with engine on a clutch fully depressed, symptoms could be dragging clutch ,poor oil or worn baulkrings,oil change will prove oil issue ,

Click to expand...

Good idea .

Thats the one i bought for mine.bought an ebay special at first and was about 5mm shorter than original.and more expensive than one from rimmerbros

cambridgecockney said:

Thats the one i bought for mine.bought an ebay special at first and was about 5mm shorter than original.and more expensive than one from rimmerbros

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Cheers .

Oh and James, any reccomendation on which oil to fill it with? Lots of talk about Evo 1 and Redline MTL but those seem hard to get and expensive. But I'll pay more if they really do improve it.

mtf 94 from britpart is what i use stc9158

jamesmartin said:

mtf 94 from britpart is what i use stc9158

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+1 that's the best oil money can buy for the R380 gearbox no matter what others say...i went once for some "alternative" based on other's advice...after 1 month of struggle with lower gears i drained it and filled with MTF94 ...it's almost unbelievable what difference an oil can make on the gearchange

sierrafery said:

+1 that's the best oil money can buy for the R380 gearbox no matter what others say...i went once for some "alternative" based on other's advice...after 1 month of struggle with lower gears i drained it and filled with MTF94 ...it's almost unbelievable what difference an oil can make on the gearchange

Click to expand...

It made a massive difference to my Freelander's gearbox, with the new clutch and an oil change I'm hoping it will be nice and smooth .

However I naffed a tyre this morning on a fecking wood screw in the road . Had to put on one of my spare 16" wheels with a **** tyre on it as a spare - hope I don't need another tyre until i've got the money for those KM2s.

Just done the clutch on our V8, looks like the pressure plate had developed a fault as the clutch was very 'grabby' when pulling away or trickling along in traffic.

I thought the centre plate might have been distorted, but it runs true when spun on the clutch alignment tool, and the pressure plate centre looks to be off-centre within the cover assembly.

Wear was almost nil in 60000miles, it was visible but the old plate could have gone back in. Fitted a new release bearing, stupid not to once it is all out, and MTF 94 to top up the gearbox.

Mine has the oil cooler fitted and there is some loss when the cooler thermostat plate is off the box.

I got hold of a new master cylinder, slave cylinder and pilot bush, all were new when we did the engine, but not needed.

Peter

Did it fix it then ?

Apart from the clutch pushrod, is there any other part that would be worth replacing while I'm in there?

Jut bought myself an alignment tool just to be safe .