Changed the clutch,wont go in gear.

My mate pressed the clutch pedal like a knob and the slave cylinder lost fluid.

Ive tried bleeding it but it wont go in gear,the pedal doesnt seem as hard to press as it did before.

Ive removed the slave and checked the push rod is on the fork,tried bleeding it again but no luck.

Also when i changed the release bearing it was only held in place by i tiny black plastic u shape,is that all that holds the bearing in place?

flatline said:

My mate pressed the clutch pedal like a knob and the slave cylinder lost fluid.

Ive tried bleeding it but it wont go in gear,the pedal doesnt seem as hard to press as it did before.

Ive removed the slave and checked the push rod is on the fork,tried bleeding it again but no luck.

Also when i changed the release bearing it was only held in place by i tiny black plastic u shape,is that all that holds the bearing in place?

Click to expand...

Disco 2 ?

Like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RbZxh_2AZw

D1,it says it next to the the thread title

I just had a go ay bleeding it and managed to get first,just waiting for my mate to come round so we can do it properly.

flatline said:

D1,it says it next to the the thread title

I just had a go ay bleeding it and managed to get first,just waiting for my mate to come round so we can do it properly.

Click to expand...

I know what it says ... but this is a Landy forum and anything can happen in the next half-hour ....

I cant get the thing bled properly,im going to halfrauds and see if they sell anything i can use to reverse bleed it.

Failing that im going to buy a new slave as its pretty cheap.

If the piston has moved further up the slave cylinder than usual, the seal is probably damaged so replace slave cylinder as opposed to seal, then bleed again.

Got the new slave cylinder in and its definitely better as i can get it in 3rd,4th and 5th but its not smooth.

I've reverse bled it and no joy,I don't know if its my inexperience or something else is wrong.There is be more of a rattle than there was before and its squeeking when the fork is moving.

I need my car back on the road but i'm out of ideas.

you sure the clutch fork is ok?

u clip on release bearing isn't even needed, just helps with installation.

Yeah its a heavy duty fork.

flatline said:

Yeah its a heavy duty fork.

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next time you bleed the slave, take it off and clamp the piston all the way in. should help get rid of air

I bought Borg-Beck clutch couple of years ago, fitted it and I could not get it to bleed properly, went through all the usual bleeding procedures but nothing worked, took the engine out and there it was the friction plate had dropped a spring between the plate and the pressure plate. I have fitted many clutches over the years and never come across this before, especially on a new clutch, I had tried everything and decided I had no option than to start at the begging again.

Had a similar thing with mine, its a D2 so not sure if that makes a difference, but bleeding procedure was as follows:

Have a tube already fitted onto the bleed screw and a pot or just a big old towel to catch the fluid to stop it dripping onto the exhaust.

Have your assistant behind the wheel and make sure he knows that when you say "down" he mashes that pedal down hard!

With bleed screw SHUT pump the clutch pedal very hard at least 5 times

Quickly open the bleed screw then shout "down", you should see a big squirt of air/fluid, shut the bleed screw. All done!

The above worked a treat for me and I had tried everything, pressure bleeding, reverse bleeding etc.

Also the people who had fitted my new clutch had bent the plate by letting the gearbox hang of the input shaft, this was fixed under warranty after I proved that the clutch was working fine but it was the distorted plate that was dragging.

Symptoms were: 1st and reverse impossible to select with the engine running. All other gears ok but when a car is moving clutchless up changes are pretty easy anyway.

Mark

Well sounds like you have covered everything bleed wise, one last thing you could try is a pressure easybleed kit, you can get one from Halfords around £15.00, this will blow the fluid through and remove any air in the system, if after this you still can’t get full release there’s nothing more for it than back to the beginning, however you got access to change the clutch, some remove gearbox, I always remove engine anyway check all parts and run through the whole installation again, I know it's a pain in the arse but something is not right in there by the sounds.

ironhorse said:

Well sounds like you have covered everything bleed wise, one last thing you could try is a pressure easybleed kit, you can get one from Halfords around £15.00, this will blow the fluid through and remove any air in the system, .

Click to expand...

Yes they are very good but when I tried to use mine it doesn't fit on the reservoir im remember chuntering to my self that I had to buy another bit and slung it into the corner of the shed. I had a problem bleeding mine and changed both the slave and master cylinders then it was fine and I just used tube and jam jar.

It is possible to use the Ezibleed kit without a special cap, if your res cap is a bayonet type rather than the normal screw thread.

The kit comes with two large and two small caps, use one of the small caps BUT reverse it, so it looks like a cup not a cap! You just put the brass fitting on the wrong side.

Now use a couple of thin plastic gloves or a washing up glove, to provide a seal around the cap and push the upside down cap into the hole on top of the reservoir, it should seal ok if you push it down well.

Remember not to use high pressure on the bleed kit, if you do it will blow the cap out and cover you and the engine bay with brake fluid (been there, done it!)

Have a big jug of water handy to wash off any spills.

Works ok for brakes, but as I said before, I didnt get any joy on my clutch bleed.

I can post a sketch of what I did if you want.

Mark

Bought and an easybleed kit and managed to get it in all gears but reverse but i still had to crunch it in.

Tried another two times and stull no joy.

Slid the gearbox back enough to look i side and everything was at it should be.Although it does seem pretty loose which is why its making so much noise.

To def prove my clutch mechanism was working but that it was still dragging I did the following:

Put your Landie on a nice smooth/flat surface.
Put it in first gear
Hold clutch down
Start the engine
With the engine idling, does the car try to move forward?
If it does then its still not disengaging properly.
If it doesnt move, slowly lift clutch pedal, if you can feel the clutch engaging, with the usual clunk and car moves forward, it points towards a distorted clutch plate.

Above was fine for sussing out my problem.

The R380 is primadona of a box and hates any drag, also have you checked the gearbox oil? Level ok? and MTF94 used?

Mark

Quick vid of the fork.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNx41Ma_iyk&feature=youtu.be

Yr vid is "private"