Changed the clutch,wont go in gear.

Did you check to see if its trying to creep forward in 1st with the clutch pedal down?

Yeah its been doing that the whole time.

Ok thought Id check. So that prob eliminates a distorted plate. Prob eliminates binding centre bush as well, although that would scream like crazy.

So it could be down to release lever or still has air in system.

Are you able to check how far the lever is moving when the pedal is depressed?

If it moves the correct distance, (not sure how far, but Im sure someone with a working clutch could chip in with that info) then its something inside the bell housing.

If its still not moving far enough it must be air.

Sorry if im sounding a bit simplistic but mine drove me mad till I bled it fully and its a well trodden road on every LR forum!

It seems beyond logic that such a simple system could cause such grief!

Mark

I keep telling myself it cant be something so simple as a decent bleed because the easybleed kit is really good,i speant ages making sure no air was coming out.

If you watched the vid i posted would you say the fork should be that loose?

it's not something daft like a spacer/thicker slave is it?

i've never tried, but can you manually shove the lever in with some wood or a clamp. does this sort out the creeping forward?

just thinking if that worked, then it must be down to the hydraulics.

you didn't change the rod did you? i think there's a few sizes

No spacers and the slave was the same.

What lever are you talking about?

Didn't change the rod.

flatline said:

I keep telling myself it cant be something so simple as a decent bleed because the easybleed kit is really good,i speant ages making sure no air was coming out.

If you watched the vid i posted would you say the fork should be that loose?

Click to expand...

I went down a similar route, changed slave, was about change the master, reverse bled, pressure bled, pressure reverse bled.

The only thing that worked was the most basic solution, bleeding with "attitude"! 5 really hard pumps with the bleed screw shut, then open bleed screw and mash that pedal like you want to push it through the bulkhead!

You have to force the air round the high points on the piping.

The Ezibleed just didnt have the "oomph" to force the air round the pipe loops.

One thing that not many people try, is what the book says, "open bleed screw, pump pedal until no air comes out (doesnt say close screw in between pumps!) close bleed screw".

If the clutch worked before, there cant be anything wrong with the mechanism, unless the new release bearing is somehow thinner than it should be, not very likely.

Ill see if there are any specs on how far the rod should move, as I said before, if the rod/lever is not moving far enough its the def the hydraulics.

Mark

flatline said:

No spacers and the slave was the same.

What lever are you talking about?

Didn't change the rod.

Click to expand...

fork.

some people also wedge the clutch half open with something and leave it over night/ days. hoping any bubbles will slowly rise up.

can't harm to try it.