There is so many options, I belive my has + 2" lift springs with. + 2" shocks
Might be stupid but does that mean I get 2 more inches of travel of the tyre traveling up towards the arch from where it would be sat on level ground, if that makes sence, but I won get any more downwards travel,
If any of that makes sence.
This is exactly the problem.
+ 2 springs usually mean the vehicles ride height is 2 inches taller than stock. How they achieve this varies greatly. Stronger springs, longer springs softer longer, longer and stiffer this is where lift kits suck because none show how they achieve the lift.
When running higher than std ride height propshaft angles are higher than the designed limit. the front suspension is pushed around its radius arm arc and upsets much of your steering geometry. Lots of problems here far too much to go into detail but for instance you will notice such problems as the steering wheel not centring as quickly as it should if you let go of the steering wheel after a tight corner. Also note the higher you go the more your front axle moves to one side again because of the arc of the panhard rod.
+ 2 inch shocks means that at at the shock mounting points the shock fully extended is 2 inches longer than std. Now because the shock is inboard by some distance the wheel droop is actually alot more think of the pivot point. pivoting from the bump stop on the side with the axle fully compressed or against the bump stop and the axle hanging only being stopped by the shock being fully extended and bottoming out. The wheel is some 12 inches maybe more outboard so you may get 3 to 4 inches more droop.
Plus 2 inch suspension is usually on the limit of the drivers and vehicles tolerance any more the driver will notice Issues and the vehicle will not be nice to drive any more. some people put up with it some don't. There are alot of sheds out there!!!
Although articulation is great there is no weight on the dangling wheel and with open diffs power will transfer to the easiest route or path of least resistance i.e the wheel dangling in the air.
Right the problem with the thread is if you fit +5 the shock fully compressed with the axle trying to wedge against the bump stop as designed cannt go up because the lengthened shock rod will top out inside the shock BEFORE the axle hits the bump stop. The main reason people fit extended bump stops again losing compression but better than punching a shock to pieces.
You can add to this binding propshaft UJ's, brake lines being stretched and lots more issues if suspension is messed with by somone that shouldn't. Also higher wear rate of components and the like.
