Can i just remove it?

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driving_mad

Active Member
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324
Location
Uk
drove to cheltenham today to see the misses and when drive round town i heard tinny noises from i think rear prop. i drove round car park while she stood outside trying to listen and she pointed round that area.
think bearings are knackered or uv's may be done.
i got a 200 mile trip back till i can sort it as i dont have enuf tools and time here. so....

can i just remove rear prop and just run on front wheel drive till i got proper tools and axle stands and all that jazz?
is it possible and is there anything special i'd have to do if i did this?
cheers guys
 
9/16" spanner. and it would help to raise the rear to rotate the prop. if its not in danger of seizing or snaping, why remove it? its gonna take you a while just to take it off anyway.

in theory you could just run on the front prop but you may stress this part out more if you remove the rear... maybe. i dunno ;)

G
 
cheers grif,
wanted to take it off cos its quite an unhealthy noise and i dont want it to go whizz bang, and fly off when i'm doing 70 on motorway for 200 miles.
didnt think it wasa that difficult to take off. just flange on handbrake drum and rear axle?
 
The problem is that you will then be putting FULL engine torque via the one prop its UJ's and the diff...

It will work, but drive it VERY carefuly, no wide throttle openings in low gears, and slowly build speed.

Remember you will need to lock your centre diff or you will go NOWHERE!
 
The problem is that you will then be putting FULL engine torque via the one prop its UJ's and the diff...

It will work, but drive it VERY carefuly, no wide throttle openings in low gears, and slowly build speed.

Remember you will need to lock your centre diff or you will go NOWHERE!
Just like 1951 on series 1,2 and 3's,cept they use the rear diff on its own.Trouble is its very clunky on gear changes,but there is no reason why it shouldnt be done.
 
ok, well seems like i should just leave it then. gona have a proper look 2moro n see if i can figure out what is wrong and overhaul it when i'm home. cheers guys
 
200 miles to home and thats gonna take about 10 hrs!
fix it/get it fixed, where it is.
 
in cheltenham at the moment till sunday afternoon, then going to swansea then to london on tuesday. got more time tools in swansea, plus a parts guy but london is where i got all the tools i need and workshop.
 
Handbrake won't work without rear prop - might make it fun parking it when you get home if you've not got an assistant.

Nip down to Halfrauds and buy a grease gun for £8.99 and a tub of LM grease and pack the UJ bearings out as tight as you can - might hold long enough to get you where you need to be - I'd keep the detours as small as possible if I was you!

BTW - whether the rear prop drags or digs in depends a bit on which UJ break dunt it ;) If it's the transfer box end it'll dig in same as the front prop going at the diff end.
 
haha. wont running it in diff lock at over 25mph **** the diffs up?

G

Not if you only have one propshaft. In fact, the locked diff has an easier time in this case than normal. There are two things that **** it all up, and they are both different:

1) running in diff lock on a hard grippy surface, tar or concrete, with both propshafts fitted. This is likely to break all sorts of things, whatever is the weakest bit

2) NOT locking the diff when off-road and spinning one wheel. This will stuff up the diff-lock itself as all the little gears inside are whizzing around.
 
BTW - whether the rear prop drags or digs in depends a bit on which UJ break dunt it ;) If it's the transfer box end it'll dig in same as the front prop going at the diff end.[/quote]

Yeh sorry! Thaty's what I ment to say but I got mi mucking words fuddled:D
 
err...true but it also depends which end goes. the handbrake end of the rear prop can give the same upside downey sensation:D
 
already got a grease gun but it just throws it all out down motorway. i'm going to have a play now and see whats occuring.
will report later.
 
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