Caliper bolts, and stop solenoids

Question 1, do brake caliper bolts need thread lock?

Question2... I fitted a new stop solenoid to my 200Tdi. Now the engine runs on for a few seconds after I switch the ignition off, but seems to be firing on maybe two cylinders. If I do a longer run (like 18 miles home from work) it runs normally after I switch it off, again for a few seconds, before misfiring again for a few, then stopping. Any ideas?

(Yes I know a diesel doesn't actually "fire"!)

not necessarily if you tighten them properly ,but belt and braces thinking says it doesnt hurt
refit stop solenoid or buy another

wattfield said:

Question 1, do brake caliper bolts need thread lock?

Question2... I fitted a new stop solenoid to my 200Tdi. Now the engine runs on for a few seconds after I switch the ignition off, but seems to be firing on maybe two cylinders. If I do a longer run (like 18 miles home from work) it runs normally after I switch it off, again for a few seconds, before misfiring again for a few, then stopping. Any ideas?

(Yes I know a diesel doesn't actually "fire"!)

Click to expand...

You are referring to the caliper frame to stub axle yoke bolts, yes?

Dippypud said:

You are referring to the caliper frame to stub axle yoke bolts, yes?

Click to expand...

? caliper isnt a sliding type and secures to swivel housing

Dippypud said:

You are referring to the caliper frame to stub axle yoke bolts, yes?

Click to expand...

Yes.
MOT coming up, and it's time to change my brake discs.

jamesmartin said:

? caliper isnt a sliding type and secures to swivel housing

Click to expand...

True!
But do I need threadlock on the bolts?

wattfield said:

Yes.
MOT coming up, and it's time to change my brake discs.

Click to expand...

thought you had a defender

wattfield said:

True!
But do I need threadlock on the bolts?

Click to expand...

not if you tighten them properly ,

jamesmartin said:

thought you had a defender

Click to expand...

I do, why do you ask?

jamesmartin said:

not if you tighten them properly ,

Click to expand...

Thanks James, sorry I misssed your first post!

you need 1/2 bihex socket for caliper bolts and a 14mm bihex socket for disc/hub bolts , if you undo top swivel pin bolts so as to move caliper without disturbing brake lines ,place a jack under bottom pin so housing doesnt drop and so let oil or grease out, priose pistons back before undoing caliper

Cheers James. I knew most of that, but I'll remember the tip about the jack.
I was going to do the job last weekend, until I found out the caliper bolts were rounded off already, so I've bought some new ones. I just hope the disc/hub bolts are OK!
I'm doing the rear end as well, I reckon the axle breather's blocked as there's oil on one disc & pads, so I'll do thehub seals and breather too.
By the way, it's a '92 Defender, rebuilt with a later, disc brake rear axle.

disc/hub bolts usually are , you might want to replace the stub axle seal in the rear

The new ones will probably have a dollop of stuff on the threads already, so problem solved. All the ones I've bought have had what looks like a dab of blue paint on them.

Did you replace the sol because it was running on?
And its started doing it again?
I had that, turned out to be the distribution head springs (I think that's what they're called) breaking up and fine bits of swarf jammed the sol.
I used to have to remove and clean the sol around twice a year but since having the FIP reconned all has been good even running the same sol! Lol!

Flossie said:

Did you replace the sol because it was running on?
And its started doing it again?
I had that, turned out to be the distribution head springs (I think that's what they're called) breaking up and fine bits of swarf jammed the sol.
I used to have to remove and clean the sol around twice a year but since having the FIP reconned all has been good even running the same sol! Lol!

Click to expand...

Thanks for that, it sounds like I might have the same problem, I changed the solenoid last year too.

I still can't get the front caliper bolts to shift, I may have to admit defeat and hand it over to the garage. I've done the rear hub seals and found that I need new brake calipers, and one of the rear lights need changing, and some wiring sorting out. Al of these things were working until last week, but the MOT's due so it decided to break!

Solenoid coil attracts the small filings, they also lodge on sealing rim so valve doesn't close cleanly, hence running on with limited fuel, probably fuel distributor breaking up, the hard facing goes on the cams

freelance said:

Solenoid coil attracts the small filings, they also lodge on sealing rim so valve doesn't close cleanly, hence running on with limited fuel, probably fuel distributor breaking up, the hard facing goes on the cams

Click to expand...

So how do I deal with that, do I need a new distribution pump?Interesting about "running on with limited fuel", since I changed the solenoid, when I switch off the ignition it chugs as if it's not firing on all cylinders.

wattfield said:

So how do I deal with that, do I need a new distribution pump?Interesting about "running on with limited fuel", since I changed the solenoid, when I switch off the ignition it chugs as if it's not firing on all cylinders.

Click to expand...

replace the pump

jamesmartin said:

replace the pump

Click to expand...

Ouch! £££££!!!