calibrating ride heights

Stevetheplant said:

Thanks Wammers, if I find the sensor IS working, what should i look for next? You seem to be the oracle around here and i would appreciate your advise.
P.S. I havent got a multi meter, any other way of testing?

Click to expand...

No you need a test meter to check for accurate liniarity. Check the connections are clean first job. Have you cleared EAS faults and reset it. Seems strange you should get exactly same reading on two different sensors.

WD40 is a water disspersant (hence WD...the 40 means that this formulation was the 40th attempt at making it by the inventor).
Whilst it works to keep the ignition system working (to a point) in the old A/A+ series engines in classic mini's it is not a good electrical conductor or cleaner.

The only reason it worked on ignition systems was because it got rid of all the moisture in them....not because it made the electricity flow better..!!

Get some electrical contact cleaner from somewehere like RS or Maplins...and give it a good scrub with an old toothbrush.

Stevetheplant said:

Hey guys, Thanks a million. I am very new to this so please have a little patience with me. I'm extremely sorry to look stupid and didnt mean to get anybody riled, it wasnt intended. I was going to ask if anyone can point me in the next direction after i put the new sensor on. The fault is still showing
2 FR not functioning/respondiong (cant remember now i've brought the laptop in to get more help.
There are no other faluts showing
Front left sensor height shows 128
Rear left shows 109
Rear right shows 108
BUT the front right shows 27

Any advice (if anybody doesnt mind) before I go searching

Click to expand...

As the sensors are not very accurate, the numbers will always be slightly different for a given height. FR showing 27 suggests a dodgy contact in either the connector or the sensor itself. The wires corrode in the connector.
Never use WD40 as a contact cleaner.
You can select motorway height and all other heights except extended from the EAS software, no need to drive it.

Cheers guys. I cant reset the eas as every time i clear it via easunlock, when i turn it off and unplug the software it comes straight back. A trip to Maplins is the first call for some proper cleaner i think. I'll update once i have tried it.
Thanks again.

Stevetheplant said:

Cheers guys. I cant reset the eas as every time i clear it via easunlock, when i turn it off and unplug the software it comes straight back. A trip to Maplins is the first call for some proper cleaner i think. I'll update once i have tried it.
Thanks again.

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Are you shutting the EAS software down correctly

i think so. how should i shut it down? Just in case i'm doing it wrong.

Datatek said:

As the sensors are not very accurate, the numbers will always be slightly different for a given height. FR showing 27 suggests a dodgy contact in either the connector or the sensor itself. The wires corrode in the connector.
Never use WD40 as a contact cleaner.
You can select motorway height and all other heights except extended from the EAS software, no need to drive it.

Click to expand...

That was somone else asking Keith who does not have the EASunlock. But you may have a customer shortly i think.

Stevetheplant said:

Cheers guys. I cant reset the eas as every time i clear it via easunlock, when i turn it off and unplug the software it comes straight back. A trip to Maplins is the first call for some proper cleaner i think. I'll update once i have tried it.
Thanks again.

Click to expand...

What happens if you just reread the faults having cleared them?

Remember that just clearing the faults isn't the same as fixing them. If the fault is still present then the EAS will remain in fault mode.

Hi again,
Yesterday i thoroughly cleaned the new sensor, old sensor and the connector under the wheel arch with contact cleaner and a tooth brush. The fault is still there reading
FR: Signal incorrect.

Any advice on what to look at next guys? IT is getting me down, literally, as it still self levels every night and as I have to park on a slope the arse end is on the bump stops every morning so I have to get the laptop out and lift them manually before I can get the kids to school.

Have you tried swapping the FR and FL sensors around to see if the fault follows the sensor??

If it does, you know it is the sensor, if it doesn't it could be a problem with either the connection (which you have cleaned), the connection at the EAS ECU, the wiring loom inbetween the sensor and ECU or the ECU itself.

Another check to do and it was mentioned above is to connect the sensor to a multimeter set to measure resistance, and move the wiper arm up and down and check for smooth increase/decrease of the resisitance reading.

You say you don't have a meter, maybe a friend or family member has one you could use, or purchase a relatively cheap one from Halfrauds or again Maplins.

Until you can say the sensor is working correctly, by swapping the FR and FL over and seeing if the fault moves, or by checking for smooth resistance change using a multimeter, you could be chasing your tail.

Think you can safely say you either have a bad sensor or a bad connection/broken wire from sensor to ECU. FR sensor goes to pins 21, 23 and 24 on EAS ECU. What i would be doing is checking the sensor with a test meter. Connect + test meter to Orange/yellow (wiper wire) then other end - of meter to the other two wires in turn moving sensor through it's range you should get resistance changes on both wires. If that is ok. Pull the plug on the ECU and test continuity of these wires back to the Sensor plug. Three wires to sensor. Orange/purple to pin 21 on ECU. Orange /yellow to pin 23. Black/pink (common earth) to pin 24 ECU. All these wires must show continuity from ECU plug to sensor plug. If sensor checks out. Wires check out connections are good, your problem is in ECU.

Thanks yet again.

I will try and swap the left and right sensors first. It's getting to be a very painful job as I am currently waiting for an operation on my slipped disc and the drive is just large gravel (god knows how those blokes lie on a bed of nails).

I asume that cleaning the connection to the ecu, or replacing the loom won't be easy either.

Well the saga goes on. I bought a multi meter and read the sensor. it goes up and down las smooth as anything.
I presume I now need to find where the EAS ECU is located and find the loom and give the loom connections a thorough clean next.
Stupid question coming up. Where is the EAS ECU?

Under the Passaenger seat I believe ----'under fron left hand seat' according to RAVE.

Thanks for that. At least it's not under the bloody car again.

Do you have the RAVE manuals??

Do a search on here....plenty of links to get it no doubt.

found the ecu, got the multi plug off and gave it a good tooth brushing. Now cant get the back bags to raise using the EASunlock like i could before.

For info. Connector view for EAS ECU is on. Electrical trouble shooting manuals. Circuit/Z6/connector views page 7 plug C117. With wire input to right top of plug has 17 connections, bottom 18. Bottom R/H is pin 1, bottom L/H is pin 18. Top R/H is pin 19 Top L/H is pin 35.

Top L/H. 35,34,33,32,31,30,29,28,27,26,25,24,23,22,21,20,19.


Wire in --->


Bottom L/H 18,17,16,15,14,13,12,11,10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.

21 Orange/ Purple. 22 Orange/Yellow. 24 Black/Pink.

when messing around for any length of time I suggest you put a charger on the battery it goes flat and all sorts of weirdness can occur
when resetting the eas after exiting the programme and powering off the ignition you must unplug the obd2 connector then switch the ignition back on

Well i must say a HUGE thank you to everyone who helped me sort this problem out. I finally found there was one connection not giving continuity under the wheel arch (the middle one). When i traced the wires i found the problem immediately. Where the wires come through in to the engine compartment i coudl see loads of bare wire, frayed, toughing each other etc. I had to take the water header off to gat at everything and it was a fiddly job connecting them back again. Even the 2 wires that go to the side indicator were shot. Once i had connected them all i ran the continuity and they were all sound. The EASunlock read the fault, i cleared it and unlocked it. Turned everythingoff, unplugged the diagnostic cable from the ECU and turned the engine back on. FANTASTIC. The car rose like a fart in a bath. I WAS SO CHUFFED. If anyone else has a problem with EAS and are in my area I would be more than happy to repay your kindness and let you use my programme as I know it costs £40 around here just to get the garage to plug the cable in and tell you what the fault is, then another £40 once you have finished to clear the fault and unlock the EAS.

THANKS AGAIN GUYS