Cadillac 429 rebuild

Dr_evil said:

I haven't looked into then much tbh! It took long enough tracking them down never mind checking who the company sponsors!!

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15 second search

if doing bottom end...why not re ring too??in for a penny....

re clevite/feder..mogal....both good..

still dont like drilling flywheel...its just scary...yes FETT scary!!..atleast nutter doc using steel over bellhousing (or something to protect his feet)

doc..i like the idea of zf auto...dont think you will need manual with that torques...

think about it...i gonna use zf24eh with the 4.6 supercharged lump...abit of electronic trickery and full auto or at push of switch full steptronic..paddle or floor mounted, fully controlerable torque convertor lock, instant gear changes..SO much better off road capability....
dont cost sod all for zf boxes, so if kill one..so what..!


looks like you need to use barrier cream too and nitrol gloves.....time you reach 50 you will av skin cancer...THIS i mean..happy new year..

Don't have the cash to re ring unfortunately, these 429 parts aren't cheap!

Going federal

I have a half inch thick to 3/4" thick bellhousing of cast iron as it is and will be welding in a protection plate too so it's ok. That and my engine will probably never go past 3k in its life....

Zen you are mistaken! I still refuse to go auto, this is a rare ZF manual box that I have in my possession 5 speed top loaded box

And yes barrier cream is definitely needed

Dr_evil said:

Don't have the cash to re ring unfortunately, these 429 parts aren't cheap!

Going federal

I have a half inch thick to 3/4" thick bellhousing of cast iron as it is and will be welding in a protection plate too so it's ok. That and my engine will probably never go past 3k in its life....

Zen you are mistaken! I still refuse to go auto, this is a rare ZF manual box that I have in my possession 5 speed top loaded box

And yes barrier cream is definitely needed

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looks cheap to me...........1964-67 Cadillac 429 Piston Ring Sets - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

They're a no name brand. The named ones are expensive, that's the same shop that had the no name mains for #### all but want to go with a good brand

Plus I'm not forking out for head gaskets again as the pistons will have to come out the top of the block

Will leave it as is for now

Dr_evil said:

They're a no name brand. The named ones are expensive, that's the same shop that had the no name mains for #### all but want to go with a good brand

Plus I'm not forking out for head gaskets again as the pistons will have to come out the top of the block

Will leave it as is for now

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if crank is out they can go in from the bottom............ old school

You sure? Rover V8 ones only half will come out through the bottom so this might be the same

Dr_evil said:

You sure? Rover V8 ones only half will come out through the bottom so this might be the same

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Not a 100% but had a good look at a bottom end and looks possible. Federal and sealed power make ring kits like what i linked for you earlier

I was under the impression that cranks are drilled/plugged Internally. Hence the big hole in the counterbalance.

Whats the barrier cream for?

Barrier cream helps the hands stay cleaner and protects them

Little update, I didn't manage to get a start on the bell housing or transfer to gearbox adaptor but I'll do that next week.

Took a little longer to collect the new axles today than I thought and while I was at it I also got some very rare push fit series lamp surrounds and a new rear prop.




Not the greatest pics but I'll take some tomorrow before I fit them, especially of the series track rod conversion










The flywheel also turned up this morning













And the rare military push lamps

Flywheel looks nice.

URGENT doc...

IS THAT THE CORRECT FLYWHEEL FOR YOUR CADDY???,,by that i mean your actual caddy, not a flywheel that fits or you gonna make fit..

i ask cos this is important ...IF IT IS NOT DO NOT USE..IT WILL #### YOUR ENGINE!!!..unless you get it machined..and i hate even suggesting that...

if it is correct one..then koooool!!!

That is not the correct one, the original was a flex plate remember as this is an auto only engine!

It will not #### the engine up if its zero balanced.....the engine is internally balanced and that is a 30oz offset flywheel so it need some weight taking off it and machining which I have already stated a couple of posts back

thats ok then..as long as you know you gotts get rid of them weights on da flywheel...

would av been a shame if you didnt...

zen said:

thats ok then..as long as you know you gotts get rid of them weights on da flywheel...

would av been a shame if you didnt...

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Here

And yeah I know about this, don't worry I've done research

Dr_evil said:

Thor1950 said:

So what is the change of wanting to re-due the bottom end of the motor? When this was mentioned very early on in your build? You said it was rebuilt and no need to waste money? And got into a hell of a disagreement with a few of us on the subject? With you telling us we knew nothing

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The change is that the crank is coming out so I may as well change them if they're worn. I'll know if they're good or not next week when I remove the crank to be drilled for a spigot.
I'm presuming as it was rebuilt in the last decade and lightly used it should be fine but in the event of needing new shells I'll buy either the Federal Mogul or Clevite. Clevite were the originals but I've been advised that they aren't as high quality now by some engine shops and others have said the mogul (sealed power) ones are better now so no idea which to go for if I do. There's only £15 in it.

fett said:

so your flywheel is gonna be drilled between the current bolt holes to fit your current crank?

Mines like that as the landy flywheel has a differnt bolt pattern than the p76 crank, I wondered if zen would freak out about it and I meant to show him when he was here

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Yeah they're going to have half an inch between the old PCD and new one so it's ok for strength. I'll then either get the crank and flywheel balanced together or have the flywheel zeroed with the clutch and leave the crank as is

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ahh do you did,,dont touch crank...canu imagine how much it would be weakened to balance to that flywheel!!
just get flywheel machnined to zero..i assume it has harmonic balancer?though that may need replacing if the rubber (if used) is shot..

Crank is getting a 5/8th by 1" deep hole drilled for a spigot bush thats it, I'll get the flywheel zeroed for £60 plus shipping when the clutch arrives so they're both matched. Need to remove the crank this week and check the shells out

Don't think there was rubber there when the sump was off I couldn't see anything

crank must av some kind of balancing..its on the flywheel or harmonic balancer..ie the weight on front of crank held on by front pulley..like some gm motors and even rv8 (atleast mine is)

your clutch should already be balanced, but the flywheel you have, (as you know) must have them cast in weights removed....if you have front pulley/harmonicic balancer like most/some gm engines then give that too to machine shop if you getting crank and all balanced..
if getting crank balanced it also would be silly not to get pistons and rods done..(yes i know they installed..but..)

using wrong flywheel just is a can of worms....for £400 or so one can get a bespoke flywheel made....consider it before sending one u have off...sell the oneu have+ money saved from maching and balancing and hole drilling might only need to find 200??

just a thought...

I got quoted far more than £400 to get a bespoke one....machine shops were thinking more like £1500!

Theres a large metal weight in front behind the crank pulley







Crank is getting drilled and it'll get checked for balance after drilling so its fine


If the flywheel is zeroed it wont make a difference anyway, they'll be done properly by a shop down south http://www.bobharman.com