Bumper removal and spotlight question

Hi there,

just bought a secondhand A bar for the front bumper but just wondering how the bumper currently fixes before i launch into it. do the four bolts bolt down through the chassis to captive nuts? are these prone to breaking when force is applied? i've doused them in Bulldog BDX so hopefully that will help penetrate the threads.

Also what's the score regarding front spotlight legality. Can A-bar ones be combined into the high beam circuit or do they need to be independently switchable for off-road only. i know when i use to put spots on cars we could just add them to the high beam but not sure if rules have changed.

cheers in advance

Steve

Yes, 2 bolts on either chassis leg.
Can't remember them ever being captive nuts, but my Landie's front bumper wasn't OEM when I bought her.
That will answer your question, If they are captive.
Lights can be used as additional full beam.

They are captive but not fixed to the chassis.
The nuts are held in a spring plate, If I remember it slides on the bottom of the bumper. You can see it here


But yes a couple of days squirting release agent of you choice prior to doing the job wouldn't go a miss.


J

As for the extra lights, dont just connect to the high beam circuit, you will likely overload it and burn some fragile wiring.
They need their own supply and best through a relay.
Which can be switched with the high beam circuit or switch (dont know the rules).

J

marjon said:

They are captive but not fixed to the chassis.
The nuts are held in a spring plate, If I remember it slides on the bottom of the bumper. You can see it here

Land Rover Defender Front Bumper | Rovers North - Land Rover Parts and Accessories Since 1979

Land Rover Defender Front Bumper

www.roversnorth.com

But yes a couple of days squirting release agent of you choice prior to doing the job wouldn't go a miss.


J

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spot on, cheers dude

marjon said:

As for the extra lights, dont just connect to the high beam circuit, you will likely overload it and burn some fragile wiring.
They need their own supply and best through a relay.
Which can be switched with the high beam circuit or switch (dont know the rules).

J

Click to expand...

yeah was planning to have a switched relay for them as well.

Both ours are switched through a relay and operate on high beam, doesn't seem to be a problem at MOT time.
Disco 2 is also the same, MOT tomorrow to we will see what the outcome is.

Anaconda said:

Both ours are switched through a relay and operate on high beam, doesn't seem to be a problem at MOT time.
Disco 2 is also the same, MOT tomorrow to we will see what the outcome is.

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cheers, and good luck!!

Bumper held on with captive nuts and if they've been on for a while / weren't greased before fitting they may be hard to get off as if seized solid the captive nuts may break free from spring plate and spin
I'd advise getting a set of stainless bolts and new captive nuts before attempting it

(Captive nuts fit onto bumper and can be hard to line up with bolts, a long thin punch or similar from top often helps)

I think When i fitted my one's thay can only operate on full beam and be switched

marjon said:

As for the extra lights, dont just connect to the high beam circuit, you will likely overload it and burn some fragile wiring.
They need their own supply and best through a relay.
Which can be switched with the high beam circuit or switch (dont know the rules).

J

Click to expand...

^^ this one. Make sure the lights are fed from a relay with a fused power supply. I wire my relay up to a three way switch so I have the option of: on/off/on-with-mainbeam. But I know lots of people just use a two way switch and have off/on-with-mainbeam. I don’t know of the legality but I would put a switch in so you have the option of turning them off. There have been a few time not having them on has been beneficial. Usually in heavy fog.
Also don’t know if you have lights yet but I would advocate good quality LED as they have a much lower power draw requiring a smaller fuse than halogen and putting less strain on battery and alternator (you can also fit more of them for higher light output and still have the above benefits). But I am fairly paranoid having had an electrical start engine fire requiring a rebuild last year. I will also re-emphasis the good quality LED, which are expensive. Not the cheap Chinese eBay/amazon specials that are out there.

Definitely get some new bolts and captive plates before you remove the old ones. They are likely to be seized. Two of mine sheared off! And be prepared to treat the front chassis legs as the bumper hides the rust!

Knappster said:

Definitely get some new bolts and captive plates before you remove the old ones. They are likely to be seized. Two of mine sheared off! And be prepared to treat the front chassis legs as the bumper hides the rust!

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will do, i'll see if i can find them

drfoster said:

will do, i'll see if i can find them

Click to expand...

If you scroll down the attachment from my earlier post you will find the numbers to search.
if you scroll down further to #14 you will see that YRM do a set in stainless steel .

And as if by magic https://yrmit.co.uk/product/s-s-bum...teel-bumper-mounting-nut-plate-fixings-a4-80/

J

drfoster said:

cheers, and good luck!!

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Well, the Disco passed the MOT, not without a typical Land Rover drama though.
The SRS light came on on the way to the MOT, garage repaired a wire under the seat before undertaking the MOT.