Mk1 facelift conversion.

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Didz1982

Member
Posts
23
Location
Isle of man
Ok so I found some bits on here and some bits elsewhere. Figured I’d feedback on how I did it and issues I ran into.
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Bumpers- they don’t just bolt on. The front needs the metal support from behind it off the donor facelift too. You also need the tow eye for the front as it’s shaped differently.
Rear was worse, the shape of the mk1 shell has bulges that we’re behind the old bumper. These stop it mating and so need hammering flat.
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Also the bumper bracket below the higher lights needs removing too.
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Then it should mate pretty well. Remember to paint all the sectiones u've damaged the paint on. It’s not visable, but will help protect it. tips for bumper removal... other than the screws on the arches to the liners, front and back, there are some plastic studs/clips under the seal on the top of the back bumper and under the grill on the front. But also 1 each side inside the front wing, accessed through the cut out in the liner, or down the side of it. And 1 each side hiden behind the rear arch for the back. Pull the small section off on the 5door or pull the majority away on the 3 door.
Headlights need a good couple of inches cutting away to make them fit. So from where the bottom of the light sat to roughly the height of the horn mount. I actually found I had to grind the top of the clip of the horn mount down, right down to the captive nut.
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Again, the old bracket needed removing too. (Unpainted area to the right of light gap)
wiring- it’s all different plug wise. Most wire colours were the same, watch for level motor as it’s the same colour as the side light bulb. Colours were wrong, but easy to work out from the plug pin layout.
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The wiper stalk swap does not make both lights come on for full beam as many thought it might. For that feature u’ll have to bridge the full beam and dipped with a Relay/resistor.
I found two plugs in the vicinity of fogs, which I presume will be for it. But again not the same and I don’t have a switch yet anyway. So that’s for a later date.

errmm... screws, u need the long screws from the facelift rear lights to refit them. The lights are thicker. Also all the connectors are different on the rear too, but easy to change over. Take as much of the donor loom as u can with the plugs, this applies for all lights ur doing.

think that just about covers it. Feel free to ask if there’s something I’ve not covered.
 
I wouldn't imagine swapping the light switch stalk would work - it is the pin it is connected to that is the issue - if you remove the connector on the car side, you remove the pin from the plug and push it into the redundant one to get the main/dip beam combination :)

Still, there's always more way than one to skin a cat... :)
 
I wouldn't imagine swapping the light switch stalk would work - it is the pin it is connected to that is the issue - if you remove the connector on the car side, you remove the pin from the plug and push it into the redundant one to get the main/dip beam combination :)

Still, there's always more way than one to skin a cat... :)

yes, this was mentioned too. And may well be the route I go. It’s just identifying which pin needs changing. Don’t have that info yet. I’ll look for a wiring diagram that stems from the stalk. I may well have one.
Some had said on earlier posts that the stalk may be the difference as the wiring diagrams for both models is the same.
 
If you have access to the official wiring diagrams, then it'll have the pin numbers in the plug that you can compare. The wiring diagram is likely to be the same, except for that one crucial (and quite small print) detail :)
 
If you have access to the official wiring diagrams, then it'll have the pin numbers in the plug that you can compare. The wiring diagram is likely to be the same, except for that one crucial (and quite small print) detail :)

I dont have that access. But I’ll try find it. Maybe even try get a pic of the old loom plug.
Or if anyone has a facelift in bits they want to photograph the wiring to the stalk and plug even better?
 
Or if anyone has a facelift in bits they want to photograph the wiring to the stalk and plug even better?

I can take some pictures of the headlight connector on the stalk on my facelift, if it helps. I don't think it'll be today, I should get time on Saturday.
 
On pre face-lift plug simply link pins 1 and 2. This gives dip when headlights on and then dip remains on when beam selected. As it is wired originally feed to dip on pin 2 gets cut when switch moved to beam.
 
On pre face-lift plug simply link pins 1 and 2. This gives dip when headlights on and then dip remains on when beam selected. As it is wired originally feed to dip on pin 2 gets cut when switch moved to beam.

would this not work the other way too? So full beam on when low beam is on?
 
No you are only bypassing the switch contact that breaks the dip when you put beam on. You are not connecting dip and beam together.
 
No you are only bypassing the switch contact that breaks the dip when you put beam on. You are not connecting dip and beam together.

oh right, I presumed it was a case of the switch creating contacts to a circuit. So one turn to create a contact, and moving it forward, or pulling back as it is for full beam, moved it on to another contact. I’ll have to try it then.
 
I still can't decide if I prefer the face lifted look or the original look but the face lifted defo looks more modern. I definitely don't like the grey bumpers of the very early cars but there is something about the older bumpers that I like.
Probably cause I'm a silly auld fart! :rolleyes:

Well done for doing such a good job though and posting the How To.
 
I still can't decide if I prefer the face lifted look or the original look but the face lifted defo looks more modern. I definitely don't like the grey bumpers of the very early cars but there is something about the older bumpers that I like.:rolleyes:

I prefer the facelift myself. Especially the interior, which was made to look more modern. The pre-facelift interior looks like it's been plucked out of the 80s, and really hasn't aged well. The exterior is less old fashioned looking, as long as it's got black bumpers. I think the facelift is a better package overall, although I don't feel the build quality on the facelift as good as the post 2001 models.
 
I prefer the facelift myself. Especially the interior, which was made to look more modern. The pre-facelift interior looks like it's been plucked out of the 80s, and really hasn't aged well. The exterior is less old fashioned looking, as long as it's got black bumpers. I think the facelift is a better package overall, although I don't feel the build quality on the facelift as good as the post 2001 models.
Have to say I love my preface even with its probs but I will have it way I want it someday lol
 
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