Brown's clutch rebuild thread

[Brown]

Stuff has started coming:

There's a cover plate, friction plate, bush and bearing there, as well as master and slave cylinders. No dual mass flywheel yet, but then i just ordered it.

 

[raywin]

Stuff has started coming:
View attachment 137387

There's a cover plate, friction plate, bush and bearing there, as well as master and slave cylinders. No dual mass flywheel yet, but then i just ordered it.

Don't new parts look nice.
Seems a shame to put them in a mucky Land Rover.
Does anyone remember the Borg and Beck clutches with the springs, rather than those diaphragm spring clutches?

 

[Brown]

There are a few novelty items about which will fit the TD5: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DriveTorq...614178?hash=item487d8688e2:g:kagAAOSwPhdVN1d~ I've gone for something a bit more standard though. The dual mass flywheel should come today, so I might be able to get busy over the Christmas period.

Just browsing Ebay I see there are some clutches advertised as suitable for the TD5 with coil springs in the friction plate too. Maybe that's for people who've fitted a solid flywheel. Or maybe it's just a generic picture of a clutch. Most of the clutches I've ever fitted have had those diaphragm style springs in the cover plate. Years ago we had a Bedford O series bus converted to a camper van, which had an all-coil clutch mechanism.

 

[Chalky.]

Why do some people fit a solid flywheel in replacement of the DM? Is it cheaper or something? Can anyone tell what the pros and cons are to fitting a solid flywheel to a td5?

Interesting thread @Brown, will be watching this one closely as ill have to do mine sometime in 2018!

 

[raywin]

Why do some people fit a solid flywheel in replacement of the DM? Is it cheaper or something? Can anyone tell what the pros and cons are to fitting a solid flywheel to a td5?

Interesting thread @Brown, will be watching this one closely as ill have to do mine sometime in 2018!

I think the solid fly wheels are as expensive or more than the DM ones. I have read where people put one in and it knocks the gearbox about especialy when on tick over.
My DM lasted 113k miles and was not dead when i changed it so it seems they are pretty robust items, I don't think I would modify mine.

 

[Brown]

Dual mass flywheel has turned up:

It's very heavy. Interestingly, I can move the drive plate in relation to the back plate and ring gear just with my fingers. I thought it would be stiffer than that - more like the damper pulley that goes on the front.

Why do some people fit a solid flywheel in replacement of the DM? Is it cheaper or something? Can anyone tell what the pros and cons are to fitting a solid flywheel to a td5?
Interesting thread @Brown, will be watching this one closely as ill have to do mine sometime in 2018!

I think some people feel it's going to be more reliable and 'heavy duty' to have a solid one. But others say it gives you too much vibration when it's solid. Plus most of the solid ones are Britpart branded. The discussion usually goes like this:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...-heavy-duty-flywheel-clutch-conversion.84008/

 

[Brown]

The lure of having all those new parts in the house has proved to be too much. I've decided to do a side of the road job rather than wait for the next visit to Wales. I've started dismantling today. Seats and mats out:

Floor pans out:

Got the props off and transfer box dropped just as I was running out of light:

I was pleased to see that there wasn't any oil on the mating faces of the transfer box and primary box, so the seals are holding up well. One of the disadvantages of having a one piece bellhousing is that it looks like the starter has to come off too. Tomorrow I'll see if I can separate the gearbox from the engine and have a look inside. I've found my aligning tool, and discovered a cylinder of instant gasket that was salvageable by removing the plug that had formed in the nozzle. My only concern is that I might run out of Loc-Tite over Christmas.

 

[jamesmartin]

The lure of having all those new parts in the house has proved to be too much. I've decided to do a side of the road job rather than wait for the next visit to Wales. I've started dismantling today. Seats and mats out:
View attachment 137572

Floor pans out:
View attachment 137573

Got the props off and transfer box dropped just as I was running out of light:
View attachment 137574

I was pleased to see that there wasn't any oil on the mating faces of the transfer box and primary box, so the seals are holding up well. One of the disadvantages of having a one piece bellhousing is that it looks like the starter has to come off too. Tomorrow I'll see if I can separate the gearbox from the engine and have a look inside. I've found my aligning tool, and discovered a cylinder of instant gasket that was salvageable by removing the plug that had formed in the nozzle. My only concern is that I might run out of Loc-Tite over Christmas.

the inner side 15mm nut of the starter can be a little trick and its worth removing oil pressure sender wire and cps

 

[Brown]

the inner side 15mm nut of the starter can be a little trick and its worth removing oil pressure sender wire and cps

I'll have a look at that tomorrow when it gets light. It's worth getting the crank position sensor out of the way anyway because it's the sort of thing I'd forget to disconnect before taking the gearbox off.

 

[jamesmartin]

me too ,and they damage easy when bell housing comes away

 

[Brown]

Bronze bush marinading in oil:

I must say I'm chuffed at how well the Dinitrol is holding up since I put it on in 2013. Look how black that chassis is in the pictures a couple of posts up. Hardly a speck of rust anywhere. The lip on the bottom of the bulkhead that the floor pans mate up to is looking good too. They normally rust away.

 

[Brown]

me too ,and they damage easy when bell housing comes away

I almost remembered to disconnect everything from the transfer box before dropping it. The only thing I forgot was a breather tube, which I'm not too bothered about as it is just a bit of plastic tube.

 

[jamesmartin]

Bronze bush marinading in oil:
View attachment 137578

I must say I'm chuffed at how well the Dinitrol is holding up since I put it on in 2013. Look how black that chassis is in the pictures a couple of posts up. Hardly a speck of rust anywhere. The lip on the bottom of the bulkhead that the floor pans mate up to is looking good too. They normally rust away.

ive never dipped them in oil for years, what will be important is checking is fiitted bush and input shafts clearance they are often very tight once fitted

 

[Brown]

ive never dipped them in oil for years, what will be important is checking is fitted bush and input shafts clearance they are often very tight once fitted

Yes it probably doesn't make much difference! It's just that people on here say it's a good idea and I wouldn't want to disappoint them. When we did the clutch on our old forward control series 2 the bush slid on the input shaft freely when we tried it for size, but was too tight once tapped into its hole. so I've had experience of that particular problem!

 

[The Mad Hat Man]

Yes it probably doesn't make much difference! It's just that people on here say it's a good idea and I wouldn't want to disappoint them. When we did the clutch on our old forward control series 2 the bush slid on the input shaft freely when we tried it for size, but was too tight once tapped into its hole. so I've had experience of that particular problem!

better to be safe than sorry. boil the oil with the bush in, as that removes more air and traps more oil.

 

[jamesmartin]

better to be safe than sorry. boil the oil with the bush in, as that removes more air and traps more oil.

and yet it makes no difference,

 

[The Mad Hat Man]

and yet it makes no difference,

whatever! it was always recommended..... just because you dont do it, doesnt mean your method is correct.
I cant be arsed - its not my car, but I wouldnt want to risk taking it all apart again sooner than required.

the Op can do what he wants.

 

[jamesmartin]

whatever! it was always recommended..... just because you dont do it, doesnt mean your method is correct.
I cant be arsed - its not my car, but I wouldnt want to risk taking it all apart again sooner than required.

the Op can do what he wants.

its not my method they are dry from new and its called experience, its fit thats the only worry

 

[The Mad Hat Man]

its not my method they are dry from new and its called experience, its fit thats the only worry

if it is an Oilite type sintered bronze bush, they MUST NOT BE FITTED DRY. I can only assume you do not know how a sintered bush works. Carry on with your misapprehensions. Just dont tell others inaccurate information.

 

[jamesmartin]

if it is an Oilite type sintered bronze bush, they MUST NOT BE FITTED DRY. I can only assume you do not know how a sintered bush works. Carry on with your misapprehensions. Just dont tell others inaccurate information.

the bushes they use run ok dry in fact most are running now with no ill effect,i can assume you have little experience