Brake pipes

Okay I expect this has been done before on here

But the sykes pickavant flair master type used is the better flaring tool than the picture below.


Depending on the length and bends an inch to 2 inches extra helps on measured length with string, short pipes add 1/2 inch to measurement.
in photo's we cheated and origami special.

use a pipe cutter

more pics
copper pipe and not copper-nickel crap

Use brake pipe spanners to loosen and an open ended spaner when cracked off.

to make the bends use


Copper pipes can be formed by hand, but need gradual reduction of radius- rolling thumbs out works well.

the reason the flair master tool is better is the fact pipe is clamped centrally and both op1 and op2 are centralised as they form the end.

The cheap kit works but needs care or offset and poor forming are common.

Oh and the nsf brake pipe is a slight pain on a 110 td5 but nothing a couple of pairs of hands couldn't sort.

fanatic said:

more pics
copper pipe and not copper-nickel crap

Use brake pipe spanners to loosen and an open ended spaner when cracked off.

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Ere!! fannytickler, copper nickel (Cunifer 10) is far superior to copper

Suris said:

Ere!! fannytickler, copper nickel (Cunifer 10) is far superior to copper

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Rusts like anything-shultz,gear oil and grease sticks like xzy to a blanket

Suris said:

Ere!! fannytickler, copper nickel (Cunifer 10) is far superior to copper

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Manganese/iron and nickel 10%
Rusts like anything-shultz,gear oil and grease sticks like xzy to a blanket

Never had a copper brake pipe failure, and the wall thickness is thicker than cupro nickel generally-pays money and takes choice

nowt wrong with copper pipe

I use both copper and Cunifer 10 copper is easier to bend but i find i can make a neater job with cuniifer 10.

Fanny im seriously dissapointed seeing you use second hand brake pipe unions

oldskool said:

I use both copper and Cunifer 10 copper is easier to bend but i find i can make a neater job with cuniifer 10.

Fanny im seriously dissapointed seeing you use second hand brake pipe unions

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Serviceable and it was another forum members vehicle which we fitted on a master cylinder previously in a hurry so they could get back on call.

Net cost to person for brake pipes=Zero and had time been on our side etc then yes new unions, but when they fit in spanner nicely-no different to undoing and refitting for a wheel cylinder etc.

Purpose of the pictures is more the tool and process-gives an idea of how to make them

It was my landy. The unions were in good nick and it was a rush job due to the Glastonbury festival coming up. It was my only day off for the next 2-3 weeks and I didn't have time to grab any new ones.

ratty said:

It was my landy. The unions were in good nick and it was a rush job due to the Glastonbury festival coming up. It was my only day off for the next 2-3 weeks and I didn't have time to grab any new ones.

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Curbside motors on tour, I swear I never realised quite how bad the parking is where you live- The local planning committee are obviously corrupt.

Hows the pedal?

For the rest of the forum the master cylinder was suspected of scoring as pedal creep, air in system can cause same issue.

Personal preference I use silicone tubing and two man job.
Smooth pedal strokes to get air out and then lock off nipple and get assistant to press pedal.

release nipple and watch fluid flow, nip up ask assistant to release pedal-repeat until you have no air.

Watch points

When nipple is released if undone a little too much air can be drawn in between thread.
Also these bleeders with one way valve as one man job are not good as there is a risk that air will remain undetected.

An easy way to tell if you have successfully removed all air is engine off pump out servo till pedal goes hard.
leave it and press pedal check pedal height, pump pedal and if the height changes you have air in system generally.

If people have hints and tips please comment, for instance I prefer nylon plastic p clips on kit cars to metal clips as there is less chance of vibration fretting.

fanatic said:

Serviceable and it was another forum members vehicle which we fitted on a master cylinder previously in a hurry so they could get back on call.

Net cost to person for brake pipes=Zero and had time been on our side etc then yes new unions, but when they fit in spanner nicely-no different to undoing and refitting for a wheel cylinder etc.

Purpose of the pictures is more the tool and process-gives an idea of how to make them

Click to expand...

Easy tiger wasn't having a pop at ya, i know you was doing a mate a favour was just avin a larf , i know what it's like doing kurbside repairs (when needs must an all that) before i moved into my work shop i was a mobile mechanic with a fully fitted Iveco van, genny, compessor the lot, ive got the same flaring tool anorl but mines got a circular bit with the flaring tool bits init you turn it round to get the bit you require, excellent tool

Another thing which i dont see often but will help especialy on mud lovers, is the use of Denso tape on all joints ( after about a week or two of use to ensure no leaks) then when you need to repair or replace a pipe you just remove the denso tape and joints wont be as seized,

fanatic said:

Rusts like anything-shultz,gear oil and grease sticks like xzy to a blanket

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Cunifer 10 rusts like anything???????? My arse it does

Suris said:

Cunifer 10 rusts like anything???????? My arse it does

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one wonders if the stuff supplied locally sufferers an impurity or something. But the stuff I have experienced has shown corrosion in less than a winter.

I will try another brand and see what it is like, I'd prefer this stayed a positive tip thread if we can please.

fanatic said:

one wonders if the stuff supplied locally is impurity or something. But the stuff I have experienced has shown corrosion in less than a winter.

I will try another brand and see what it is like.

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is just a surface like rust haze like if you wipe a sweaty hand on mild steel. or full blown rust through rust scale stuff?

john winsemius said:

is just a surface like rust haze like if you wipe a sweaty hand on mild steel. or full blown rust through rust scale stuff?

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pitted like a bitch and brown rust, I'm aware of the age hardening of both. I'm happy to try another brand but a bad experience put me off kunifer.

It is of course possible the brand is impure and cheap ****-I'll try another brand

fanatic said:

pitted like a bitch and brown rust, I'm aware of the age hardening of both. I'm happy to try another brand but a bad experience put me off kunifer.

It is of course possible the brand is impure and cheap ****-I'll try another brand

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Cheap **** it only needs to met the motor requirement for the intended use the working PSI of the pipe. Make it as cheap as possible for higher profit,shorter life more repairs, more pipe sold higher profit. Again big business sticking it to the little guys