Brake pipes and chassis number

mick the builder · Feb 9, 2011

Well today my 01 p38 failed its NCT (mot) on 3 items.
1. The front window tint was too dark. It seems that what would pass last year will not pass this year so out came the razer blade and sticky stuff remover.
2. He couldn't find the chassis no. When I looked ( near side just in front of spring turret) al I could see was 4 holes, slightly bigger than a credit card where bolts may have been? Strange.
3 He pointed out that both brake pipes that run along the chassis drivers side, middle of the car show signs of corrosion and need to be replaced.
Has anyone changed the brake pipes on a p38 and if so how hard was it? Can the corroded section be replaced or has it to be a complete lenght? The pipe going to the near side rear wheel looks like a complete pigs to replace.
Any advice on chassis no and brake pipes greatly appreciated.

jamesmartin · Feb 9, 2011

you can join pipe you can even buy flaring tools for doing it on vehicle ,i usually replace brake pipe with 1 or 2 joints as they must fit them before fitting body on chasssis chassis number is in your passenger side front window too you can copy it yourself and replace it only has to have number doesnt matter what its stamped on ,after all difficult to ring as there are ids all over car

mick the builder · Feb 9, 2011

Thanks James, You cant imagine how better I feel now knowing about the brake pipes. Do you know the size of the pipe,fittings so i can order some.
Im not to bothered about the vin no. They said that if I got a letter from the guards (police) saying it was ok, they would accept it. Like you said, I would have been suspisious if the one in the engine bay had been tampered with or didnt match the one in the screen but they are fine so not much chance of being a ringer. Still like to know where it went though.

seanmull · Feb 9, 2011

changed the brake pipes on my p38 bought a roll of pipe in a motor factors and ran it from the back to front at the time i was changing the fuel pump so tank was off which made it easier the roll of pipe was 25-30 euro

jamesmartin · Feb 9, 2011

pipe is 3/16 copper or cunifer is good 3/16 metric fittings you will need some male and female and dont forget male 1 stage flare female 2 stage

Ian A · Feb 9, 2011

jamesmartin said:
you can join pipe you can even buy flaring tools for doing it on vehicle ,i usually replace brake pipe with 1 or 2 joints as they must fit them before fitting body on chasssis chassis number is in your passenger side front window too you can copy it yourself and replace it only has to have number doesnt matter what its stamped on ,after all difficult to ring as there are ids all over car

Mick
Dont bother joining the pipes, the part at the front is the easy part, i changed the two long pipes and the two short one's at the rear not long ago, i pulled mine out and they snapped they were so corroded and they were just an advisery a few months before.

Have a look hear
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/bearmach-discs-133266.html

One reel of tubing is enough to do the rear one's, the one that goes from the offside to the near side runs across the top of the chassis and you cant see how bad it is till you remove it, not realy that bad a job, did mine on the street outside my house with a trolley jack and a pair of axle stands.

Hope this helps
Ian

jamesmartin · Feb 9, 2011

what does bearmach disc thread have to do with brake pipes

mick the builder · Feb 9, 2011

Thanks guys, I must admit I am a bit concerned about doing the long rear near side one without kinking the pipe. Had a quick look underneath and cringed a all the bends

jamesmartin · Feb 9, 2011

there is nothing wrong with putting joins in lr frequently do, i would rather have pipe fitted correctly with some joins if needed than great length fitted badly

mick the builder · Feb 9, 2011

jamesmartin said:
there is nothing wrong with putting joins in lr frequently do, i would rather have pipe fitted correctly with some joins if needed than great length fitted badly

Thats what im worried about. A mate of mine is doing up a 110 and has stripped it down to the chassis and fitted new brake pipes....Badly. I was expecting a perfect job considering the room he had but it dosent look great.

mick the builder · Feb 9, 2011

jamesmartin said:
pipe is 3/16 copper or cunifer is good 3/16 metric fittings you will need some male and female and dont forget male 1 stage flare female 2 stage

James, could you elaborate a bit on the 1 stage and 2 stage bit. Not sure what they are for.

jamesmartin · Feb 9, 2011

when you put flare on pipe with male end you make cone shape with tool ,with female end you put cone on 1st stage then using different die make it concave 2nd stage ,the male end has convex flare female concave

mick the builder · Feb 9, 2011

jamesmartin said:
when you put flare on pipe with male end you make cone shape with tool ,with female end you put cone on 1st stage then using different die make it concave 2nd stage ,the male end has convex flare female concave

Thank you very much

Ian A · Feb 9, 2011

jamesmartin said:
what does bearmach disc thread have to do with brake pipes

:doh::doh: If you look at the thread (page 2) you will see pics of the condition of the brake pipes that i removed.

Ian A · Feb 9, 2011

Mick
It ain't that bad to do the nearside brake pipe, got mine in, in one peice it's not that easy to kink the pipe, as long as you are not to animal with it.

mick the builder · Feb 10, 2011

Ian A said:
Mick
It ain't that bad to do the nearside brake pipe, got mine in, in one peice it's not that easy to kink the pipe, as long as you are not to animal with it.

Thanks Ian.
I'll have to have a crack at it. I,ll do the o/s first to practice on. My mate has a four post lift in his tyre shop so i'll try and blag a use of that.
BTW who would have thought that this thread would go on for 2 days

dogsbody · Feb 10, 2011

Before you start - read up on bleeding the system properly.
Then read it again.
Then write it down.
Then, especially if you're working away from home, make sure you take it with you.
Few things worse than doing a 'nice' job like replacing the pipes then you can't get the brakes to work, especially if you're taking up space in a mate's garage.

SLY-SY · Feb 10, 2011

Yea print off the bleed procedure from RAVE, you will defo need to refer to it at every stage.

I did the nearside rear on my P38 before I sold it.

First get the old pipe out, that's the hardest part as it much stronger, steel I think.

Then just follow the same path, it's not hard at all as the copper pipe is so soft.

You can re use the existing fittings at each end, I did.

mick the builder · Feb 10, 2011

Thanks Guys
How silly was I to think that bleeding the brakes would be the easy part.
My mate has a power bleeder and i assumed that you started nearest the resovoir and worked your way round to the wheel furthest from the res, or is that to easy for a RR?
I will check out link though, thanks. Does this site have a workshop manual I can download? I tried an old thread where a member offered free downloadable manual in exchange for a thank you but had no reply.

p38 prius lol · Feb 10, 2011

land rover service factory manual RAVE download land rover resource, service manual, workshop factory manual, download, rave, vehicles including discovery, series, defender, range rover, freelander, LR3, Handbooks, Catalog, Catalogue, Land Rover Inte

Brake pipes and chassis number

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

New Member

New Member

Well-Known Member

Very senior member

New Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Similar threads