Chrisw8
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I paint mine next day if necessary.
Big Stripdown and Weld thread 300tdi
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Chrisw8
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Am I doing it wrong ?
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no idea - what does yo wife say?
Chrisw8
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She’s happy
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thats ok then
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2 coats max and a drying time of 4hrs, by that reckoning you could get 2 coats of primer and a top coat on in a day
Chrisw8
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Ah......my days are strange.
I prefer to do one coat per day, that way I know each coat is fully dry, and there are no gloopy patches to mix different colours together.
I prefer to do one coat per day, that way I know each coat is fully dry, and there are no gloopy patches to mix different colours together.
Magicgrotto
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@dieseldog69 on the can it says to overpaint within a certain time or leave for longer then overcoat. On parts, I paint, have a brew, heat gun for A but and bang second coat on. Yesterday I did the same then coated over with a spray can. It dries quicker than most!
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I must admit that I've not read the tin but was just more curious to see what other folks are doing and if they are achieving good results (which you most definitely are).
I am so sorely tempted to try some of the water based metals paints to actually try them out to see if they work? Not sure I want my own motor to be the guinea pig but someone's got to LOL
I knew bilt hamber was good stuff - it has a great rep. However, I couldn't find much on electrox being the best bet for metal that isn't totally clean nor find much on electrox on top of their rust converter (fertan equivalent). Electrox is 90% zinc. A pail weighs loads. I saw what Chris was using and it seems to be trusted in both the boat and car world. It sticks really well and a little but goes far. Way cheaper than electrox. Seems tough too. The next decision will be if I go epoxy mastic of glass reinforced. Again epoxy mastic isn't cheap but it sticks so well! I dripped a bit on some pliers and it's so difficult to get off
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I'm going down the paint it all first with primer and then seam seal it then the epoxy mastic route then paint it all again with primer and a top coat, going to be a very expensive process but at least I shouldn't have to do it again any time soon.
That's similar to my process. I did primer, seam sealer, epoxy mastic then a coat of 5 wheel silver on top. My lucky favourite paint. If that don't save it nothing will lol
Chrisw8
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There’s a joint in the brake line that runs from the front to rear.
Should it be there.?
I’m replacing my pipes and wonder if I should put one in?....in a more easily accessible position.!!
Should it be there.?
I’m replacing my pipes and wonder if I should put one in?....in a more easily accessible position.!!
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Chrisw8
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Thanks. I’ll move it along a bit when I get to do the pipe.
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Yep, supposed to be there, I usually end up cutting through them by accident
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It's OK, I'll let you do all the cutting on yours
But I'm not 100% as to whether your brakes are still in tact after the last fella took it all apart, I keep meaning to ask you to quickly try the passenger side door now that the door posts are all in place
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brakes are all cut.It's OK, I'll let you do all the cutting on yours
But I'm not 100% as to whether your brakes are still in tact after the last fella took it all apart, I keep meaning to ask you to quickly try the passenger side door now that the door posts are all in place
Engine turns by hand.
Still got a 4x2 in the doorway till B post is solid,
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