best route for splitcharge cables,D1 300tdi

Im putting new splitcharge systems in two D1s and am wondering about the best route for the heavy cables,for all the obvious reasons.The second batteries are going in on the N/S where the jack usually sits,in front of the air box (if it was still there)

so.....following the water pipe in its clips under the radiator and back up the other side ? Back to the bulkhead,across and forward again or over the top of the fan shroud ? Or even out into the space behind the grill,in front of the rad,across and back in ?

Whats anyone else done/doing ?

HI have done this on both mine and 2 other landy owners with a self built kit and have ran them out over the front ie in front of rad and behind the grill and seems to be best bet as not to long so dont get a drop in power and nice and safe if ran through grommets and also dont look tacky but a pro job ( not my words but a fellow landy owner) but final choice is down to how much you want to make it look a tidy and professinal job ?

Where are you mounting split charger?

DARREN4040 said:

HI have done this on both mine and 2 other landy owners with a self built kit and have ran them out over the front ie in front of rad and behind the grill and seems to be best bet as not to long so dont get a drop in power and nice and safe if ran through grommets and also dont look tacky but a pro job ( not my words but a fellow landy owner) but final choice is down to how much you want to make it look a tidy and professinal job ?

Click to expand...

:nopics:

This is how I did it:

Noisy,thanks for that.Is your truck A/C ? Dont see a compressor there....was wondering about the room taken by the extra bits in the rad gallery.Also, any issues with heat and the cables,run by the rad ? I notice double cable runs....is that to get the total diameter of cable higher ? And I see that aux battery is another starter type.....is this for increased cranking or are you running auxilleries off No 2 ? Out of interest , ignition or alternator triggered ?

MHM, "useless without pictures".......

....with due respect,pictures of what exactly ? I assume that on a discovery section many will be familiar with the image of a D1 engine bay, and since the modification is yet to be done (bar removing the airbox which I think people may be able to envisage) I dont really know what you want me to post pictures OF ! A box of components ? Some cable ?



Of course, eager to please as I am , and respecting your input as I do (in all seriousness,now ).....tell me waht you need to see and I shall do my best to make it so.....

shocks

pics as per Mr Noisy, to assist yu in routing the cables?

Oh, I SEE now,thank you,all becomes clear . My profound apologies for doubting you , MHM....Darrens post wasnt showing at the time

bigrichsri.....does it make a difference where the relay is placed ? When I have done it before I have put the relay on the inner wing closest to the alternator as thats what I use to trigger it....how about you ?

Noisy,still want to know about your relay and double cables !

Hi shocker

Sorry for late reply.

Ok:

No it's not ac but tbh there's no room taken up in the rad gallery to speak of so won't be a problem either way.

Heat? Well mines a v8 which gets stonking hot compared to a Tdi andeven at 110 degrees or whatever a v8 can run at when roasting, it's nowhere near the failure temps for modern plastic wiring and componentry etc.

Not double cable runs as such.

On the original battery, you have the original battery positive and body negative. There is an AWG4 cable running to one side of the split charge relay, which is a 120A durite version. This is protected by a 100A maxifuse next to the battery.

There is a AWG4 cable running across the engine bay connecting negative on both batteries.

On the second battery, you have the link cable mentioned above, and the negative cable for the winch, which is an AWG2.

There is the positive cable for the winch which is also AWG2 and the winch is protected by a 150A maxifuse (as per manufacturers specification)

There is also an AWG4 connecting the secondary positive to the other side of the relay. This cable is also protected by a 100A maxfuse next to the battery.

Yes the secondary battery is actually of a higher spec than the primary. The v8 is not hugely difficult to spin over like a diesel so Halfords standard spec 072 manages admirably.

I fitted Halfords high spec 072 for the secondary, because it solely powers the winch and therefore does not deep cycle. It in unlikely it would ever deep cycle, it never has, but it does need to be able to supply max amperage for short bursts (winching is similar to cranking an engine over of course)

Interestingly the winch is fused at 150A as per factory recommendation so the battery is likely to be understressed anyway.

And the relay is alternator switched, that way I know the batteries are only connected if the system is charging. Also, running the engine when winching allows the primary battery to assist, and the alternator provides amperage to help out too.

I have a pair of simple battery monitors on the dash, easily wired one to each side if the relay and common earth, I can monitor battery levels, and when the engine is started if they are not showing the same (both maximum) I know for some reason the system is not charging and/or the batteries are not connected.

You can just see them on the left of this picture



Cheers

Thanks mate - like your twin gauges....I was going to put a single digi voltmeter where the clock goes on a 300 and switch it 'tween the supplies but I reckon yours gives a better at-a-glance idea of whats happening. Nice one .

Oh, whats the fan ? Is it instead of the viscous or as well as ?Or on an intercooler ? I used to have a volvo 760 turbo petrol saloon rigged out for towing with heavy split charges to the caravan and the boot,monroe air levellers and extra electric fans on the rad and intercooler.It made a hell of a difference with heavy loads on, keep meaning to scab some fans out of a A/C D1 and put them in my 98 model but something else always comes up.....like getting the sod to start !

hi mate

the fan switch is to turn off the electric fans, i have converted from viscous to 2x 12" fans (v8 radiator remember)

the switch is normally on, only turned off for wading.

good luck with your project, Vehicle Wiring Products Ltd. Suppliers of auto electrical parts. for everything you need (if you didnt already know)

cheers

Mr Noisy said:

hi mate

the fan switch is to turn off the electric fans, i have converted from viscous to 2x 12" fans (v8 radiator remember)

the switch is normally on, only turned off for wading.

good luck with your project, Vehicle Wiring Products Ltd. Suppliers of auto electrical parts. for everything you need (if you didnt already know)

cheers

Click to expand...

Thats a good link cheers