battery for DISCO

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thebiglad said:
Hi NG, just for your general info, on a TDi there are three radiator-like components in the engine bay:
1. The main radiator filled with coolant for cooling the engine;

2. To the lhs of the main radiator and within it is a separate section filled with oil for cooling the gearbox;

3. To the right of the main radiator is, as you have found, the intercooler. This is filled with air pushed by the turbo. The idea is that air enters the system via the airbox and filter, goes through the turbo and is pushed under pressure through the intercooler to cool it and then into the inlet manifold and the engine.

Hope that helps your general understanding a bit.

I can't remember if you have taken the fuel sedimenter apart and cleaned it? By the way, are you getting any smoke/condensation for the exhaust? If so, what colour is it?

Cheers
Dave
Click to expand...

thank you Dave for the very good info.ive already check and clean the fuel sedimenter,it was clean enough though when i opened it.About the exhaust smoke,its black on first starting it and especially on engaging on low gear ie perhaps gear 1 and 2 only(auto).But as soon as engaging higher gear theres no black/white smoke (clean).
 
wow!
been a bit of activity since i last looked!

your injector pump is edc (electronic diesel control) of which i dont know too much about (yet).
what isnt standard tho, is the black wire in your picture coming from the back of the pump. i suspect it may be something to do with the spider (l/r immobiliser) modification, as there were known problems with this. (that would cause your symptoms, tho not sure where the air con fits into this)
will look into this, and if anyone knows where the bypass mod connects at pump end, post it up!

next diagnostic i need you to do is...when it stalls or looses power, set your nearside wing mirror so you can see the tailpipe. (or get a mate, or yourself if conditions allow). watch for exhaust coming out of it.
if it still has exhaust comin out while stalling/dying its pointing to an electrical problem cutting engine off.
if theres no exhaust, its pointing to a fuelling problem.

re fuel sedimentor biglad mentioned, also cant remember if you cleaned it. there is possibility of the ally head on it corroding thru, causing a pin hole thru which air is drawn in. gets worse as time goes on and would also cause your symptoms. if you decise to clean it, give the housing a good poke at and get a decent torch in there to look for pin holes.

question for biglad, you say the rad has a gearbox cooler, water cooler an intercooler. where is the engine oil cooler? i thought gearbox oil cooler was seperate- infront of rad?

will wait for replies!

nrg

edit. can appreciate that intermittent faults are a twot to find, 'specially when you cant be there!
 
Last edited:
nrgserv said:
wow!
been a bit of activity since i last looked!

your injector pump is edc (electronic diesel control) of which i dont know too much about (yet).
what isnt standard tho, is the black wire in your picture coming from the back of the pump. i suspect it may be something to do with the spider (l/r immobiliser) modification, as there were known problems with this. (that would cause your symptoms, tho not sure where the air con fits into this)
will look into this, and if anyone knows where the bypass mod connects at pump end, post it up!

next diagnostic i need you to do is...when it stalls or looses power, set your nearside wing mirror so you can see the tailpipe. (or get a mate, or yourself if conditions allow). watch for exhaust coming out of it.
if it still has exhaust comin out while stalling/dying its pointing to an electrical problem cutting engine off.
if theres no exhaust, its pointing to a fuelling problem.

re fuel sedimentor biglad mentioned, also cant remember if you cleaned it. there is possibility of the ally head on it corroding thru, causing a pin hole thru which air is drawn in. gets worse as time goes on and would also cause your symptoms. if you decise to clean it, give the housing a good poke at and get a decent torch in there to look for pin holes.

question for biglad, you say the rad has a gearbox cooler, water cooler an intercooler. where is the engine oil cooler? i thought gearbox oil cooler was seperate- infront of rad?

will wait for replies!

nrg

edit. can appreciate that intermittent faults are a twot to find, 'specially when you cant be there!
Click to expand...

thanks nrg.ive clean up the fuel sedimenter and theres no holes in it. ok next time its gonna die ill look at the tailpipe...ill try my fastest i could...coz it happens suddenly.

another question is is the oil for gearbox cooler beside the water cooler(radiator) filled automatically when filling up the engine oil?? or how mates...??THANKS
 
The oil cooler is just like a radiator for your gearbox oil, in your gearbox there is a oil pump and that pushes the oil around a circuit, part of which is the cooler.

Given that the fault only occurs in reverse, are we possibly looking for a gearbox fault?
Or could it be electrical and some cross interference between reverse light / Aircon circuits?
 
nrgserv said:
wow!
been a bit of activity since i last looked!

your injector pump is edc (electronic diesel control) of which i dont know too much about (yet).
what isnt standard tho, is the black wire in your picture coming from the back of the pump. i suspect it may be something to do with the spider (l/r immobiliser) modification, as there were known problems with this. (that would cause your symptoms, tho not sure where the air con fits into this)
will look into this, and if anyone knows where the bypass mod connects at pump end, post it up!

next diagnostic i need you to do is...when it stalls or looses power, set your nearside wing mirror so you can see the tailpipe. (or get a mate, or yourself if conditions allow). watch for exhaust coming out of it.
if it still has exhaust comin out while stalling/dying its pointing to an electrical problem cutting engine off.
if theres no exhaust, its pointing to a fuelling problem.

re fuel sedimentor biglad mentioned, also cant remember if you cleaned it. there is possibility of the ally head on it corroding thru, causing a pin hole thru which air is drawn in. gets worse as time goes on and would also cause your symptoms. if you decise to clean it, give the housing a good poke at and get a decent torch in there to look for pin holes.

question for biglad, you say the rad has a gearbox cooler, water cooler an intercooler. where is the engine oil cooler? i thought gearbox oil cooler was seperate- infront of rad?

will wait for replies!

nrg

edit. can appreciate that intermittent faults are a twot to find, 'specially when you cant be there!
Click to expand...


Hi NRG and others, I may have cocked-up :eek::eek: I thought the LHS of the rad was for gearbox oil - but it's not it is engine oil cooling. My bad.

The autobox oil cooling is done by a separte oil cooler in front of the main radiator.

Sorry for giving duff info - I'l just go and thrash myself !!!!!!!!

Dave
 
niceguyz said:
thanks nrg.ive clean up the fuel sedimenter and theres no holes in it. ok next time its gonna die ill look at the tailpipe...ill try my fastest i could...coz it happens suddenly.

another question is is the oil for gearbox cooler beside the water cooler(radiator) filled automatically when filling up the engine oil?? or how mates...??THANKS
Click to expand...

makes me think its electrical, not fuel related.
 
nrgserv said:
makes me think its electrical, not fuel related.
Click to expand...

hi mates thanks so much for the responses....regarding the sudden death of engine...i have to make a correction...its not so sudden because i could feel it ..the vibration...from normal to low vibration(some sort of feeling of loss of power)...what i mean is that i know its gonna die by the sound n vibration of engine....u know the way it shudders before dying...

another thing is i can avoid the situation perhaps...you see when i get the feeling its gonna die(while on R) ....i immediately shift to Neutral or park or even D....ive tried it while on D(this one happen only sometimes)..and it works...but dunno whether it could work while on R...maybe i should be fast enough to change the lever before it dies on me....
 
ah.

i'll think on this cos need to work out what might happen when, and if air cons on or not.

will think of something more sensible to write when i'm not being attacked and climbed on by me 2 year old son!
 
niceguyz said:
hi mates thanks so much for the responses....regarding the sudden death of engine...i have to make a correction...its not so sudden because i could feel it ..the vibration...from normal to low vibration(some sort of feeling of loss of power)...what i mean is that i know its gonna die by the sound n vibration of engine....u know the way it shudders before dying...

another thing is i can avoid the situation perhaps...you see when i get the feeling its gonna die(while on R) ....i immediately shift to Neutral or park or even D....ive tried it while on D(this one happen only sometimes)..and it works...but dunno whether it could work while on R...maybe i should be fast enough to change the lever before it dies on me....
Click to expand...


This is just a wild stab in the dark that has occurred to me but I think I'm right in saying the autobox has electrical contacts to stop the engine from being started in any position other than N or P. Could it be possible that the switch operating this function has moved/is mis-aligned, so that it operates in R and therefore cuts the engine?

It just seems strange that the problem, if I understand it correctly, only appears when you select reverse? I wonder if it is possible to disconnect this switch or whatever it is and see if the problem remains?

Cheers
Dave
 
Last edited:
I think you will find that switch only has 1 function and that is to prevent starting not stop an engine from running. I will be interested to hear what fixes it, my money is on a wiring fault to do with the stop solanoid
 
hifly said:
I think you will find that switch only has 1 function and that is to prevent starting not stop an engine from running. I will be interested to hear what fixes it, my money is on a wiring fault to do with the stop solanoid
Click to expand...


I know it inhibits (couldn't remember the english word for it:eek:) the starter motor but just did wonder if it was also linked to the stop solenoid as well.

Dave
 
thebiglad said:
This is just a wild stab in the dark that has occurred to me but I think I'm right in saying the autobox has electrical contacts to stop the engine from being started in any position other than N or P. Could it be possible that the switch operating this function has moved/is mis-aligned, so that it operates in R and therefore cuts the engine?

It just seems strange that the problem, if I understand it correctly, only appears when you select reverse? I wonder if it is possible to disconnect this switch or whatever it is and see if the problem remains?

Cheers
Dave
Click to expand...

Thanks mates...Dave the problem occurs not only on R but on D too but only that is oftenly on R. On D only happened twice if i remember correctly but on R many many times. And it happens while a/c switched on only.

And the engine dies off when put to R only after a few moments say 6 seconds as if loss of power ...the feeling is same like generator losing power...running smoothly now but soon after put to R ..its gives a sound as though...lacking of battery...or fuel to move her back.....as though its helpless to move..like underpowered!
 
If you give it more revs, say 2000rpm or so in neutral, then push it to drive, it will jerk as the transmission engages but at least it gets you going. Then, once going, is it normal performance or down on power?

In other words, is this problem just an idle/low speed issue, or lack of power issue?
 
bit late and not entirely sober, but...

next time it does it, turn a/c off and tell us if it picks back up again.

then we can directly relate it with air con, or not.
 
how about aircon compressor is starting to sieze. when in reverse you normally don't put you foot down, so very low revs and the engine stalls due to extra loading from siezing compressor, in drive you mostly put a bit more power in so it don't stall as often.

thoughts?
 
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is this the engine that overheated and bent the head when you were in the middle of nowhere, or am i confusing this with another thread?
(just couldnt find the other thread!)
 
paul_c said:
If you give it more revs, say 2000rpm or so in neutral, then push it to drive, it will jerk as the transmission engages but at least it gets you going. Then, once going, is it normal performance or down on power?

In other words, is this problem just an idle/low speed issue, or lack of power issue?
Click to expand...

thanks paul...the answer is normal performance when underway..i can go as fast as 140km/h.thats the best speed i dare to push the other day when i first bought it..couple months ago.

Another incident happened today mates...:doh:...i went to shop..i mean just to buy some bread and few things...so i leave her while engine running at P....a/c also running...after about 15 minutes when i came back ..i hear sounds of engine ..unstable ...i was thinking oh GOD what now...so i climb inside to find out the rpm going up and down...thats why she sounds like a thirsty horse! ...its between rpm 850 and 975...up and down continously until i rev a bit...then only she goes stable somewhere 900rpm....so mates why is this happening to me :confused:
 
nrgserv said:
bit late and not entirely sober, but...

next time it does it, turn a/c off and tell us if it picks back up again.

then we can directly relate it with air con, or not.
Click to expand...


thanks nrg, for your info...she works just fine while a/c off...but another thing i forgot to mention is that the a/c blower switch got some problem..like shorting...see there is switch to adjust the speed of the blower from 1 till 4...ok for my disco if u want to put speed 2 till 4(for speed 1 no problem)....u have to play with it ..pushxx a bit...so that she gets on the right speed...

ive already asked the a/c guy..he said got to open the dashboard and fix the copper or something at the switch...since its old already....i said ill think about it because i worry something worst will happen in the process of open,fixing and refitting...what u guys think..shall i go ahead ..or just leave it....does it have to do something with the cutting off..???..thanks all ...have a nice weekend mates...me not so nice..:rolleyes:
 
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