Balls....

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jamesmartin said:
just to be sure if possible,drive member,back of swivel housing ,caliper etc would help
Click to expand...

Hi JM ,

Please see photos. Ignore rust on discs, it has been sat a while. Cheers

P2181791ss.jpg

P2181791ss.jpg
P2181796ss.jpg
P2181797ss.jpg
P2181799ss.jpg
P2181800ss.jpg
P2181801ss.jpg
P2181801ss.jpg
P2181804ss.jpg
P2181807ss.jpg
P2181809ss.jpg
ss.jpg
ss1.jpg


Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated,

Unfortunately , although the axle number is there , the pin punched ID is too shallow to be able to read in detail. I may have to put paint stripper on it to clean it out if needed.



Cheers
 
Saint.V8 said:
If she can do it......



You can, now don't be a woofter.....
Click to expand...


In Part 2 of this video, he states 4 Kg for the pull on the spring guage to set the preload on the swivel, But the manual states 1.16 to 1.46 Kg. Is the chap in the you tube video mistaken? did something change? Just for clarification.
Cheers
 
Swivel bearing preload isn't all that important as long as they're well seated. It governs steering feel, so as long as the swivels move smoothly with a little resistance and you're happy with it, the more important factor is symmetry between the two sides. Rule of thumb is you can get the drag link end in without trouble, but you'll know if it's off long before the first mile is out.
 
Well, back to my balls for a minute.

I cleaned all the hardened grease/oil off and blew out the axle breather.
The dealer had adjusted the lock stops to give a bit tighter turning circle (and it is better) but they'd not cleaned the balls, so on the increased full lock the seals would probably be hitting hardened grease deposits.
Which means they might have leaked more?

Since l cleaned them hardly any grease/oil has leaked out. Although the balls are indeed pitted on the front faces.

So for now l am going to leave it.
 
I did think that might be the case!

Hopefully not. When l get a chance l'll drain them and put another "one shot" grease pack in.
 
You might be a bit late for that. Or rather, later models (such as the TD5) don't tend to have a drain hole. Even so, it wouldn't hurt to give them a drop more just in case.
 
You can always pour in some gear oil and see what that does.
Dip it through the drain with a zip tie and inspect it.
If it's fairly clean bluish-black CV oil mix you're OK.
If it's dirty burnt black-brownish or leaks out of the seals you're dry.
Chances are if it drains out at all you're dry because the grease would be blocking the drain.
Only way to be sure is to open it up, of course. Won't hurt to inspect your pin bearings (these being shot, esp lower, is a good cause for seal failure), CVs, and halfshafts anyway.
 
neilly said:
Hi JM ,

Please see photos. Ignore rust on discs, it has been sat a while. Cheers

View attachment 96839
View attachment 96839 View attachment 96840 View attachment 96841 View attachment 96843 View attachment 96844 View attachment 96845 View attachment 96846 View attachment 96847 View attachment 96848 View attachment 96849 View attachment 96850 View attachment 96851

Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated,

Unfortunately , although the axle number is there , the pin punched ID is too shallow to be able to read in detail. I may have to put paint stripper on it to clean it out if needed.



Cheers
Click to expand...
300 tdi spec i would say so da3178 you dont need to remove bottom swivel pin at all to do the job
 
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