Balls....

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Still looks like a very good dirt build up for three weeks or so. However, the sides of the top pin flange are a lighter shade of rust so it might conceivably have been fresh out of the box earlier this year. But with bolts on the underside of the car I find you can see the spanner and socket marks on them for a while - sometimes several months - after they've been undone, until the rust and dirt starts blending in. Plus that filler plug doesn't look like it has had a socket in it anytime lately.

Everything may be fine of course, but I'd be a bit apprehensive if it were mine.

On the positive side, that brake pipe from the flexi to the calliper (which looks very new) seems to have original factory bends in it. Obviously lasted well!
 
Unless they have used magic, they don't appear to have changed that top pin. I'd take it back to them and explain that you're concerned about the state of your balls. Lots of dunking in the sea has been bad for your balls.
 
Hmmmm......l did think that. It's supposed to have had new "swivel pins and bearings" and the work was done on 20th Jan.

I can't believe they wouldn't have done it. I have a good relationship with them, and they've been Land Rover Specialists since the 1950's.

I don't know of any ''specialists'' who are under the impression that all ball seals leak.
Do they operate out of a barn by any chance?


Check your breather on the axle, if its blocked it will force EP90 into the hub and out through the seal. One shot grease shouldn't leak out like that.
 
Hmmmm......l did think that. It's supposed to have had new "swivel pins and bearings" and the work was done on 20th Jan.

I can't believe they wouldn't have done it. I have a good relationship with them, and they've been Land Rover Specialists since the 1950's.

I wouldnt put it quite as bluntly as nobber. But I have to agree with the substance of his post.

And Browns observation is accurate. That doesnt look like it was apart in January. And if it was, I cannot see why they wouldnt ring you, and offer new balls if you wanted?
Also, no mechanic with pride in their work would do that job without fitting new swivel ball seals, they are not expensive, and they had to do the job anyway!
 
Another thing I'd be interested in is where that shock absorber goes into the spring seat. There's some light coloured rust, so it may be a bit loose in the hole. I keep wanting to reach out into the picture to give it a wobble to check.
 
Another thing I'd be interested in is where that shock absorber goes into the spring seat. There's some light coloured rust, so it may be a bit loose in the hole. I keep wanting to reach out into the picture to give it a wobble to check.

I replaced the shocks late last year so they should be OK but l'll check the lower bushes tomorrow.
 
Here is photos of my front axle both sides 6 weeks afer it supposed to have had rebuild all new swivels bearings and seals. they told me they would replace the balls for good seconhand ones but forgot. I remember someone commented that it did not look like its had the swivels replaced as all the bolts were still rusty and looked like they had never been loosened.
ud2-jpg.64166


ud3-jpg.64167
 
Well, l checked the lower shock mountings today as suggested, and they are OK.
As the dealer obviously did not touch the grease plugs on the ball joints, they must have put it in the top while they had the swivel apart?
But yes, a job done in a rush l'd say. I'd have at least cleaned up the swivel ball area and maybe replaced the seals.
I guess l'll have to get new balls when l've got the £4-500 they said it'd cost.
I wish l'd cleaned them myself before l took it in, l did it today and the surface is fairly pitted on the front of both.
If l'd known that l would have asked for new ones to be fitted when it went in for the preload to be checked (where they said the swivels needed replacing)
 
Well, l checked the lower shock mountings today as suggested, and they are OK.
As the dealer obviously did not touch the grease plugs on the ball joints, they must have put it in the top while they had the swivel apart?
But yes, a job done in a rush l'd say. I'd have at least cleaned up the swivel ball area and maybe replaced the seals.
I guess l'll have to get new balls when l've got the £4-500 they said it'd cost.
I wish l'd cleaned them myself before l took it in, l did it today and the surface is fairly pitted on the front of both.
If l'd known that l would have asked for new ones to be fitted when it went in for the preload to be checked (where they said the swivels needed replacing)
oem is 90quid a ball
 
I lack the confidence to take this job on. Are special tools needed?
I fear getting stuck with the Defender in bits on my drive.
 
As above, DIY is the way to do that, and I would do the seals first to keep the lube off your tyres. Then, later, do the chalice - do em one at a time...

One of mine is the same as @Saint.V8 - its the N/S, but its essentially the same problem. However, I know that chalice is knackered - there is a bl**dy great gouge out of it!!

I also think that your garage need a slap with a wet fish - they either haven't done the job, or they done the job badly IMHO - with the whole thing in bits, new seals are easy peasy, and replacing the chalice's not that much harder
 
What is the procedure for replacing the seals?
I could do that for now.
Someone, above, touched on that - its essentially caliper off, and whole swivel off the end of the axle, to get at the seal retainer - unbolt this, and prise out old seal, fit new one nice and carefully, followed by the seal retainer, and reassemble.....

started and interspersed with a load of cleaning the crud off all the right bits.....

maybe tedious, but not difficult

I see you're maybe not far from me... You have PM.....
 
OP:- Just looking at your pics again - you appear to have a ventilated disc one side, and a solid the other???? I hope that is my eyes, but ????

And no spring retainers?
 
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