No more daft as a brush as any Freelander driver with beads of sweat
There's a lot of information on here of what to search first and what look for before driving the Freelander. That sort of millage will be okay and check your services and receipts for replacements of the VCU, tyres and replaced crankcase breather filter for a BMW version.
No more daft as a brush as any Freelander driver with beads of sweat
Other than what's been mentioned. Leave your L Series alone and it will be fine.
re Bodywork and rust.. Freelanders are very good when it comes to being rust resistant. What might kill a Freelander though is rust behind the plastic liners at the front of the rear wheel arches. This area is hidden from view and very few people check behind there - I'm sure MOT/WOF testers won't look behind their either. However, it does fill with crud and does corrode. There could be a lot of Freelanders out there with looming serious rust issues in that area.Having bought a spares or repair 2001 1.8 Freelander as a project, I have found a real like for these little cars and what they can do. And they can do a surprising amount and they cost very little - so what's not to like?
Yes, plenty of things to look for - as with almost any 15 year old car. Here's my list:
Engine:
- 1.8 petrol known for HGF, but actually a really tough little engine good for 200+k miles. Look for evidence of regular servicing as evidence of a cared for example.
- TD4 diesels - timing chain (not a belt), common rail direct injection turbo. The injectors leak back, the pump can give up the ghost, the MAF sensor is rubbish, the EGR blocks, the intercooler pipe work can develop leaks and the glow plugs can seize and shear in the cylinder head. I've had much fewer problems with K-series engines if I am honest, but apart from that, they are capable of stellar mileage, so a 114k mile engine is just nicely run in
- L-series - sadly I don't know much about these, other than that they're largely bomb proof and pretty tuneable
- KV6 - I'll leave this to Nodge: I really like the KV6, but servicing the belts can be a pain, which means that many are neglected...
Transmission:
An Achilles heal of these little cars. The viscous coupling unit (VCU) lasts the life of the car, so long as the car is only used for 10 years and 100,000 miles and then disposed of. Most have survived much longer than this, and the VCU is actually a service item IMO. Unfortunately, not everyone knows this - and a failing VCU will cause transmission wind up and damage to the independent reduction drive (IRD - the Freelander equivalent of a transfer box) and rear diff.
Avoidance of this problem is the best cure: as Nodge says, the recommendation is to use the same brand, type and size of tyre all round, and keep on top of tyre pressure checks. The "One Wheel Up Test" is a dynamic test of the VCU that can easily be performed at home and will provide a clue of the relative health of the VCU, and the need to consider replacement.
On a prospective purchase, drive the car forward and reverse with full lock applied. There should be no nasty noises. Some very mild resistance from the transmission (normal), but if the car comes to a halt, then there is cause for concern that the VCU is past its best and in need of replacement.
Reconditioned VCUs are available from Bell Engineering (good reputation here). OEM GKN units are advertised on eBay for a similar price to a reconditioned Bell unit fitted for you, with new prop support bearings.
Electronics:
The Hill Descent Control (HDC) is a nice bit of kit and is part of the same system that also runs the ABS and traction control (TC). If there is a sensor problem, it leads to the illumination of the amber warning light for all three of the systems (the "Three Amigos"!) Numerous causes for this - from failed brake pedal switches, damaged ABS wheel speed sensors, corroded/damaged reluctor rings, failed G-sensor (later, post-2000 models): your best bet for an accurate diagnosis is access to a fault code reader. Three systems used over the lifetime of the vehicle: Wabco, Teeves Mk20 and Teeves Mk25. It appears that the Teeves Mk20 is least well served by the diagnostic systems currently on the market, but I am sure someone else will be able to fill in the gaps!
Bodywork:
Generally, it is said that Freelanders don't rust. Well, that's mostly right. However, almost all rust behind the rear door handle, where the damage is invisible unless you actively look for it. In other words, look underneath at the grab handle and rear number plate light. There's a good chance you'll find bubbling rust or a hole where the tin worm have been quietly nibbling away undetected...
Water leaks:
There is a hidden cubby under the floor of the boot, which is potentially quite useful - but more often than not, seems to be full of water. This is usually a problem with the seal around the rear door and window. On my car, I think I've effected a temporary repair by rejuvenating the rubber with silicone spray. Time will tell as to how temporary, but for now, the rear compartment is nice and dry.
And I think that is mostly it! Just check absolutely everything, as you would on any second hand car. There will almost certainly something random and unique to your car, but I think the pages here contain most of the solutions to any problem you may encounter...
Hope this helps
No need to worry about being done for speeding eitherOther than what's been mentioned. Leave your L Series alone and it will be fine.
Not strictly true, you still need to service it, but other than that, just drive it - no need to worry about lift pumps giving up the ghost, pressure regulators in the HP pump doing the same, engine looms corroding, hyper sensitive injectors clogging up or just squirting wrong, sensors failing, cranks snapping and other miscellaneous BMW German reliability issues
Well ive had it a couple of weeks now and im liking having a land rover again ! needs a wheel bearing and the rear diff mounts are shot just managing to stop it smelling like a farmyard inside now but its all good just now
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