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Freelander 1 Auto g/box xyz switch
- Thread starter Andy Warren
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andyfreelandy
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Just to clarify, is the photo of the top of the switch or with the switch removed?
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Hi, yes switch removed but when fitted the those 'pips' line up when in neutral on mine.
andyfreelandy
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Looks to be correct.
www.landyzone.co.uk
Also, appears to be an alignment tool for the switch which can be adjusted? Never taken one off as I don't have the tool !
XYZ Inhibitor Change Selector switch on JATCO box
Hi, can anyone give me some advice on the removal of the XYZ Inhibitor Change Selector switch from the top of my JATCO auto box on my 2005 TD4. I've removed the two studs and the assembly turns but will not come off. Don't want to break it before I get a replacement one! I assume it pulls off?
www.landyzone.co.uk
Also, appears to be an alignment tool for the switch which can be adjusted? Never taken one off as I don't have the tool !
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Thanks for that, I've read through the older posts but mine displays 1 in the instrument pack & the red led (D1) is lit by selector & it doesn't matter if you select PRND421 it stays the same so as it thinks it's in D1 it won't crank. The g/box has had the reverse band replaced by a g/box specialist but has been like this since I've refitted it.The g/box place says nothing in the box would cause this problem so it's probably the inhibitor (xyz) switch or wiring which is strange as all was fine before the band went (both barrel connectors & their pins look like new) so as I'm at a bit of a loss any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, many thanks.
Last edited:
andyfreelandy
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Do lights change on dash and lever panel.when you rotate the switch by hand ?
Does moving the gear lever move the gear selector under the box and does it move the shaft in your photo?
Does moving the gear lever move the gear selector under the box and does it move the shaft in your photo?
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Hi, the lever where the selector cable connects underneath the g/box moves as it should, even by hand, as does the shaft on top of the box which the xyz switch slides on. I haven't actually checked to see if the display(s) change if I move the white collar inside that switch by hand ,good thinking), I'll give that a try tomorrow, many thanks. Do you know if I disconnect the cable under neath the box & move the lever by hand, whether the display(s) should change given that the selector lever inside is say in P/N/D etc or are there sensors by the selector lever that must correspond to the xyz switch ?
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I've had another quick look today & with the xyz switch removed I've moved the white collar back & forth in the switch by hand but the dash display still shows 1 & the red light next to the selector lever is still showing 'D1'. Is there/are there, info or links that show you can test the xyz switch with a multimeter please ? Just a note the colour of the wires from the xyz switch side of the barrel connector don't match up with colours on the engine harness side barrel connector, is this normal ?
Again any help would be much appreciated,all the best.
@andyfreelandy in post 2 you asked if the pic. was of the top of the switch & I forgot to say
, yes that is the top of the switch.
Again any help would be much appreciated,all the best.
@andyfreelandy in post 2 you asked if the pic. was of the top of the switch & I forgot to say
, yes that is the top of the switch.
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Hi, mine as I say, electrically at least, is just stuck in P1. Mechanically everything moves as it should so. The selctor cable (bottom of the) g/box is clamped in exact same place as when I disassembled it, judging by the witness/discolouration on the bit that's clamped so I don't think that is out of adjustment the inhibitor/XYZ switch has very little adjustment so as you say would only need a little tweaking. So either the XYZ switch has mysteriously failed, (is that the only thing that controls the gear postion/display?) the wiring has a break somewhere or could the g/box place have failed to plug wiring connectors to the duty solenoid's in properly ? I'll have a look in RAVE to see if the XYZ switch can be tested with a MM,all the best.
SouthYorks
Member
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Who knows where to source a locking / alignment tool for the xyz switch ???
Seems impossible to source .
LRT 44-018
I have a switch here ready to fit but completely lost as to how it should be done with no locking tool
Seems impossible to source .
LRT 44-018
I have a switch here ready to fit but completely lost as to how it should be done with no locking tool
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Hi, in my experience, in fitted a s/hand replacement switch, I just went by the witness marks left by the bolts as a guide but it worked perfectly without further adjustment. I would just fit it & see if it works, there is only a very small amount of adjustment on the switches so it won't take much to get it right if it doesn't work 1st time so I don't think the tool is strictly necessary. The Haynes manual shows you how to make one, I would take a pic of it but my FL along with the manual is nearly a couple of hundred miles away now but if someone has a manual they could take a picture of it for you but I don't think you'll need it,all the best.
SouthYorks
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Hi matey thanks for your reply , I've managed to scare myself by reading various threads on here , specifically somone that fitted without tool and ended up with a D1 fault code .
I do have a manual as well for the record !
Don't think my fabrication skills are up to much though unfortunately.
Anyway I've decided I'm happy to give it a go without the timing tool .. how hard can it be ay ? I know plenty of people that time top ends up with no locking tool ect so hay ho
My concern is this though ..
The manual states to remove the old switch while in neutral and to refit the new switch in neutral also .
My problem is that my new extremely expensive switch is currently not marked up for neutral . Appears to be park?
Do I get a pair of pliers and just give the white insert a twist ?
Or remove old switch then place car in park and fit my new one ?
Hmm
Picture of new switch attached
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Hi, yeah you can just twist the white plastic insert until the dots align, just make sure you put it on the shaft square (you shouldn't have to force it). I did find on ebay a place in Clacton that refurbs the switches for £60-70ish as long as it has been taken apart before. Hope this cures your issues.
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