Any extra help guys

Having some problems with my 3.9 efi.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/bloody-range-rover-85684.html

Anyone who uses this part of the forum have any ideas? I'm at a loss and have major Land Rover headache.

Also, if there's anyone nearby Kilmarnock (Ayrshire) feeling super generous with their time they'll be rewarded with beverages and a slap up breakfast! Also got some landy parts kicking about if that would help persuade anyone I'll even leave myself open to all the jokes about women trying to fix motors!

Note- Noticed now when I try and start the motor sometimes there's a smell of petrol lingering. Also checked the plugs again as I thought maybe I'd flooded it but the plugs were bone dry.

Hi. Have put reply on other section under bloody range rover.

Cheers, Nick.

Take the dizzy cap off and gently tweak the rotor arm clockwise, if it moves more than 5-10 degrees you've managed to dislodge the springs off the mechanical advance which is under the baseplate. It's a 10 minute fix with a bic pen top, but you will have to take the dizzy out and strip it so you will have to re-time the engine preferably with a timing light. The problem occurs when removing the rotor arm without holding the shaft at the same time and you don't notice the little plastic retainer pinging off into the distance. If this is the problem PM me.

If the rotor arm only moves a little, do as the rest of the guys say and eliminate one by one.

Good luck, don't give up, it will be something silly and the motor will run again.

daftpooly said:

Take the dizzy cap off and gently tweak the rotor arm clockwise, if it moves more than 5-10 degrees you've managed to dislodge the springs off the mechanical advance which is under the baseplate. It's a 10 minute fix with a bic pen top, but you will have to take the dizzy out and strip it so you will have to re-time the engine preferably with a timing light. The problem occurs when removing the rotor arm without holding the shaft at the same time and you don't notice the little plastic retainer pinging off into the distance. If this is the problem PM me.

If the rotor arm only moves a little, do as the rest of the guys say and eliminate one by one.

Good luck, don't give up, it will be something silly and the motor will run again.

Click to expand...

Thanks for all the information guys.

I've checked the rotor arm for an excess play, but it's nothing drastic, just a fraction of movement.

I'm sure it's just gonna be something totally stupid and obvious and I'm just getting to rattled to notice.

O.k. if you are sure the rotor arm and dizzy cap are good, plug leads are good and in the correct order and properly routed your problem is unlikely to be any of them.

Have you checked the ignition timing? Set it at TDC static, then get an assistant to help you so you can turn the dizzy to give advance until it catches and runs, then you can do the dynamic timing - 4 degrees BTDC at tick over with vac advance removed and plugged.

If this is not the problem check the ignition amplifier and the moulded plug attached to it (mine came off the other day and killed it stone dead, just put it back on, all was fine!) and the wires to the coil. Get an assistant to help you so you can check for sparks at 1 - plugs (any plug will do) 2 - king lead.

Next make sure you have good clean earth contacts for both ignition and injection system. An hour spent cleaning up earth points is time well spent.

Hope that gives you a place to start.

Lol. Had the same thing happen to my 3.9 classic a couple of weeks ago. Did everything I could think of.
Used the haynes bodgit book, Rave etc. Eventually found that the timing was 60degrees out. (used advanced timing light) moved all plugs leads round by one. Hey presto runs fine now.

Oh, and in relation to the reply about the mechanically advnce springs. Check to see if the spacer ring is still there. They collapse and let the whole rotor shaft move up and down. Causeing a gap between rotor pickup and the dizzy cap.