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antifreeze
- Thread starter mrnice
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jamesmartin
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even with hard water you shouldnt notice if coolants used ,look how many times you empty and refill a kettle
winchman
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I agree, I just see loads of people being badgered in to using De Ionised.
The coolants the important thisng as its the inhibitors that keep the engine in good order.
All this new fangled water less stuff well if it was any good why dont manufacturers use it? I also wonder how it may over or under cool critical parts of the system after they have been designed to operate with water and a good anti freeze?
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don't see why it would over/undercool anything; the stat and rad maintains the temp.
also manu's would have to pay a fortune for the license and then distribute it everywhere. blue and red are very cheap and available all over.
brian47
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Since most batteries are now maintenance free, the garages and snake oil pedlars have had to find another reason to market fancy water in a posh bottle.
winchman
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From memory its something to do with how much better it conducted heat, it took more heat away from the components than water would hence it ran cooler.
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Not true.
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surely, if true, that would be only to the point of the temp of the liquid; which would be the temp of your stat opening.. 88ish. same as water
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surely, if true, that would be only to the point of the temp of the liquid; which would be the temp of your stat opening.. 88ish. same as water
Exactly - the main effect would be to even out temperature across the system more, and reduce any hotspots. could be good on a K series which can suffer from that.
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winchman
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Just had a look at the Evans site
I did wonder about this lot
Q. What is bad about water in a coolant?
From memory isn't it 120 degrees C at 1 bar above atmospheric pressure?
So if you cooling system has a 1 bar cap on the tank then it shouldn't boil until its 120 degrees
2 The system is designed to operate pressurised, if its boiling locally you must have an air lock ( Mazda Bongos are prone to this unless you get all the air out of the system)
3 How can it be?
4 If you have steam in the cooling system you have a problem
5 Thats why you use corrosion inhibitors and the components of the engine are chosen to work with these.
6 That's why we have inhibitors.
Now this stuff may be the best thing in the world but as yet I cant see the benefits if any are worth the down sides or additional cost
I did wonder about this lot
Q. What is bad about water in a coolant?
- The boiling point of water is only 100°C.
- Because an engine operates very close to the boiling point of water,(within the engine block and cylinder head boiling actually occurs), thus causing pressure within the cooling system.
- The boiling point of water is the failure temperature of the cooling system.
- Water vapour (steam) has almost no thermal conductivity.
- Water is aggressive toward cooling system metals and promotes electrolysis between dissimilar metals within the cooling system.
- Water contains Oxygen which encourages corrosion in any cooling system.
From memory isn't it 120 degrees C at 1 bar above atmospheric pressure?
So if you cooling system has a 1 bar cap on the tank then it shouldn't boil until its 120 degrees
2 The system is designed to operate pressurised, if its boiling locally you must have an air lock ( Mazda Bongos are prone to this unless you get all the air out of the system)
3 How can it be?
4 If you have steam in the cooling system you have a problem
5 Thats why you use corrosion inhibitors and the components of the engine are chosen to work with these.
6 That's why we have inhibitors.
Now this stuff may be the best thing in the world but as yet I cant see the benefits if any are worth the down sides or additional cost
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agree, the info is misleading
winchman
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heggars
Nec flectitur nec mutant
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Lol what did I start
winchman
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mrnice
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Tbh it does come across as a bit of a blag, I don't doubt a lot of the science stuff they mention is true but it's been taken completely out of context. The only time I think this stuff would be beneficial is in high performance modern engines.
A bit like people telling you to add salt to your water to raise its boiling point, truth in what they say but you would have to add an unrealistic amount to raise it past a few degrees.
A bit like people telling you to add salt to your water to raise its boiling point, truth in what they say but you would have to add an unrealistic amount to raise it past a few degrees.
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I know a K series freelander running it since it's first HG 4yrs ago, never had an issue since with over 120,000 kilometers on the clock since, owner swears by it in his freebie, but then again my mate Mark went back to blue glycol after niggly probs with the coolant system on the 300Tdi Fender that saw top ups required whilst travelling in Europe and without waterless coolant being readily available to him and knowing full well he had many more miles to go he dumped it and went back to the regular, I can quote him on this "try finding a gas station open at 23:00 to tank with diesel and top up with snacks let alone finding the Evans waterless to keep the engine happy when you drop some coolant".
It all comes down to what you do with your vehicle and the costs and complications associated with it, I want my own vehicle to be easily maintained and reliable, I need to be able to top up with water from a stream or a tank station if I have a problem, I try to be preventative with my maintenance but you never know what can happen out on the road.
It all comes down to what you do with your vehicle and the costs and complications associated with it, I want my own vehicle to be easily maintained and reliable, I need to be able to top up with water from a stream or a tank station if I have a problem, I try to be preventative with my maintenance but you never know what can happen out on the road.
mrnice
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Right I've just finished, I tried taking the bottom radiator hose off but it was resisting a bit so instead took the one off from underneath the filler reservoir that's connected to it and managed to drain out enough to top up with nearly 6l of antifreeze (it was pure water before - just had a new engine). I've had her ticking over for about 20 minutes and occasionally topped her up with water but the level seems to be remaining the same now. I've popped the filler cap on to pressurised the system and am standing next to her keeping an eye on the temp gauge, throughout its remained exactly where it should, in fact maybe slightly lower than before, also there appear to be no leaks from where I've been fiddling. Is there anything else I should be aware of? Anything I need to bleed etc? I will keep some spare water in the boot for a while just in case.
winchman
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I too struggles so just took the bottom hose off at the top and dragged it down to point at the floor, got just over 6 litres out
