Another Stop/Start diesel issue (tablets required)

Hi Folks

2003 Disco 2 needs primed to start goes perfect for 1/2 mile stops, prime again spin on starter then starts for another 1/2 mile. Things I have done
1. Fitted new pump in tank
2. New filter plus checked valves at pump head (no valve in rear:doh: left)
3. New regulator - gauze to block clear
4. New seals + copper washers to injectors
5. Injector loome + connections to ECU bone dry
6. I have not got a fitting to check pressure at temp sensor but HP
side of pump putting up 8.2 bar at Reg inlet.
Now - all of the above has been discussed on other threads but the only other thing I have discovered is that when the engine dies the pump immediately stops even though the ignition is still on. When I disconnect the black plug to the ECU and reconnect it the pump starts again.

HELP NEEDED (before the tablets run out) :doh::doh::doh:

Wow, you seem to have ticked all the usual boxes but still no joy? The 1/2 mile symptoms sound very similar to the problems I had before changing the copper washers on the injectors. One thing I have noticed since doing that, is when I filled with fuel before, there was always a release of pressure when I took the fuel cap off. This would indicate the tank was pressurised. Presumably from the compressed mixture leaking past the washers. When your disco dies, is the fuel tank pressurised? Could be a starting point?

I have drove it without the fuel cap and the dammed thing still stopped. But its good to have someone throw in any possibility Thanks

Now - all of the above has been discussed on other threads but the only other thing I have discovered is that when the engine dies the pump immediately stops even though the ignition is still on. When I disconnect the black plug to the ECU and reconnect it the pump starts again.

HELP NEEDED (before the tablets run out) :doh::doh::doh:[/quote]
I would say this direction, as on older disco I would have said lift pump / air leak ,but this got to be electrical from what your saying

Whether the fuel cap was on or off would not affect it dying or not. It is the symptoms that are relevant. If you leave the fuel cap on, does the tank pressurise?

Uncle Albert

The pump is working when the engine dies and then as the engine dies the pump stops a few seconds later. Without switching ignition off dis / re connect the black plug to the ECU brings the pump on just as if you had switched the ignition off and on again.

re connect the black plug to the ECU brings the pump on just as if you had switched the ignition off and on again.

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That's perfectly normal... what about stored fault codes? ...cos that's the normal route for a proper diagnose. ... even the lack of stored codes will reduce the search area.

untill then swap relay R1(fuel pump) with R3(hedlamp wash) and R9(main relay) with R8 (heated screen) for test

no valve in rear:doh: left

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if u are speaking about rear left outer pipe put an air bleed valve there ASAP ... the inner non return valve is optional

There's an earth rail near the battery cover(left side) toward the body ... check all the connections there especially the middle one.

Get the codes read

Checked codes with Snap-on Modus Plus - NO CODES PRESENT
If engine running sweetly and is turned off it will not start immediately again without priming
Also changed relays round but no different and checked & cleaned the 3 earths at the rail behind battery

if no codes then it's fueling related

about 2 wks ago it started getting hard to start and then it ended up needing primed. I then changed the injector seals / washers and all was well - starting first go. then about 5 days later it died and requires priming again. This has been the story ever since. As the pump was noisy I put a new one in thinking this will solve the problem. What has baffled me was the fact that after the injector seals were sorted the it ran like new for the most of a week.

Had trouble starting td5 2003 bought new battery ok for a couple of days but now struggling first time

but did you check the charging system on the new battery(that's mandatory)...cos if it's something wrong there you'll ruin the new battery... it's quite usual that one or more diodes from the diode pack are gone or the regulator doesnt work well then it will charge but not enough and the alternator will give AC inputs in the battery which will weaken it. The most rudimentary check is by measuring voltage on the battery with engine running and with big consumers switched on(heated windows/seats, main beam, etc) you must have between 14 -14.5 V then(if it's smaller or greater you have a problem with the charging system.... the most accurate check is with oscilloscope cos that will reveal even if one diode has failed(which will shorten the battery's life due to the AC component even though the output voltage is very close to the right one)

afaik any service will do the charging check for small money (or even free)

mccurds said:

about 2 wks ago it started getting hard to start and then it ended up needing primed. I then changed the injector seals / washers and all was well - starting first go. then about 5 days later it died and requires priming again. This has been the story ever since. As the pump was noisy I put a new one in thinking this will solve the problem. What has baffled me was the fact that after the injector seals were sorted the it ran like new for the most of a week.

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Did you retorque the injector clamps after a few hundred miles or so?

They have a tendency to come loose as the copper washers settle leading to leak by of the washers. Virtually every time I've done TD5 injectors I've had at least one loosen after a short while. Once tightened down after a few hundred miles they'll stay tight - a bit like alloy wheel nuts which often come loose as well.

The pump stops because the fuel pressure stays steady when the engine is not running. This is normal.

Sorry I'm not posting with a helpful answer, but I'm dead keen to learn if you make any progress with this, because I think I've got a similar issue. Mine feels very much like air in the fuel. I've just had a new cylinder head (and most of the engine internals replaced) and my symptom is that after being stood overnight it cranks for ages before it will start. Yet for the rest of the day it starts wonderfully.

Interesting to read there about the injector clamp bolt torque - might try that one, could be a leak path for air?

mccurds said:

about 2 wks ago it started getting hard to start and then it ended up needing primed. I then changed the injector seals / washers and all was well - starting first go. then about 5 days later it died and requires priming again. This has been the story ever since. As the pump was noisy I put a new one in thinking this will solve the problem. What has baffled me was the fact that after the injector seals were sorted the it ran like new for the most of a week.

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how many miles did you cover in those 5 days?