Freelander 1 Another Rear Window Issue!!

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Fritz

Active Member
Posts
183
Location
Surrey
Hi guys

I have a rear window issue!!

So yesterday two things happened but I'm not sure if they are directly related.

I was driving with some heavy (ish) tools in the back. On pulling away from some lights there was a loud clunk like something hitting the rear door from the inside. When I went to check it was a large socket set that had slid off of a tool chest and hit the rear door. I put it back (a little more securely) and closed the door. Everything seemed kind of normal although thinking back maybe the window didn't move as much as it used too.

About 30 mins later I stopped to pop into a shop and when I came out someone had hit the nearside wing mirror pushing it all the way forward. It's not done the wing mirror any favours as it's a little floppy so something inside is broken/ damaged but the glass is fine.

When I pushed the wing mirror back into position the rear window dropped by about 5 inches. I went and checked the boot again and everything was fine so I put the window back up using the internal button. When it was fully up I got two or three warning beeps but didn't really think much of it.

This morning I realised that the rear wiper is no longer working (even when just reversing with front screen wipers on) and neither does the window drop when I try to open the tailgate (so effectively I cannot open the tailgate).

If I use the internal button I can hear the motor working but the window doesn't move. If I use the key in the lock I can also hear things trying to move (not the same noise as the internal button) but again the window doesn't move.

So questions.

Is the wing mirror in any way related to the rear window or was it coincidence the rear window dropped when I straightened the wing mirror. I'm thinking maybe something demisting related.

Is it worth trying to disconnect the battery to re-calibrate? I'm a bit hesitant as I don't really want to cause any more damage.

I know it is possible to remove the door card with the tailgate shut but can anyone shed some light on how that can be done.

Assuming it's an issue inside the rear door can anyone point me in the direction of what it might be? I have a donor vehicle I can try parts from.

Fritz
 
It’s possible that the shock, from the impact of the socket set,has caused problems with the connections of the demister where it bonds to the rear window, you will need to remove inside door cover to look for damage
 
Sounds like the window cables have failed.
As to why the mirror would effect the window, I can't work out. Are the mirrors power fold? The mirrors are heated, so have a power feed to them, although this is on the ignition and I can't see how that would affect the rear window.

Does the door lock not release?
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the replies gents.

Mirrors are not power fold. engine was running when I popped in the shop so they would have had power going to them when hit.

The rear door locks & unlocks and I can hear it disengaging when I try to open it. In fact it opens slightly; the only thing stopping it opening completely is the glass not dropping.

Fritz
 
So a little more info. The heated rear window no longer operates either. When I hit the button on the dash it doesn't light up.

I've found lots of posts with very similar issues but noene that seem to have found a fix. They seem to replace everything or the window starts working again of its own accord after battery disconnect.
 
If the door lock releases then the CCU control unit thinks that the window is down. If the motor sounds when you operate the window switch then the glass is disconnected in some way from the operating mech. You may be able to slide the window down with your fingers or I have opened a boot door with window up by gently easing glass over rubber seal. Once door trim is off it should be obvious what prob is. As suggested above most likely broken cable or cog.
 
Until you get the door card off and check the cables your really only guessing.
four big screws at the bottom and the whole thing pulls off from the bottom first.
Mind you don't end up on yer arse. :p
 
Thanks for the pointers guys.

After much fettling and a little swearing I've managed to get the rear door open by pressing the top of the window gently inwards whilst pulling the door open and trying to press the window down (don't think it moved though).

Removed the card and thought yes, I'm there!!

But then the heavens opened so rain has stopped play for now.

More fettling, more swearing and I closed it again.

Still at least I can get to it now.

Anyway when play resumes if nothing looks obviously wrong I'm planning on switching out the entire assembly (glass and all) with that of a donor vehicle (shame it's not the same colour really).

If it comes to that how long would that likely take me please as I don't want to run out of light.

Fritz
 
Ah-ha!!

A cable has snapped I think.

Is the below a cable shroud? I assume it's not supposed to be loose but attached at each end.

IMG_20181109_122738.jpg
 
You'll only need new cables or a new regulator, if you're not good with window cable's. You don't need to replace the glass though.
 
Hi guys, I went for a heavy duty new regulator with 2 year warranty at £ 28 off fleabay.

I could nick the one off my SE but thought better of it as I wouldn't then be able to close the window on it and it's sitting in the yard.

Any tips on how to get the glass to go down to access the clamps. I was thinking perhaps cut the other cable?
 
Watch this as it will give you a clear view on what's involved, I cut a piece of wood and jamed it under the window so what I used a dremel (Use safety glasses) to cut the cables it dropped onto the wood without me having to struggle on me own.
 
Afternoon gents

@Nodge68 My wording, not really theirs. I don't know if I'm allowed to link directly to the add in the forum but the wording is as follows:

"These are NOT cheap WINDOW REGULATORS, they are built to LAST! Compare our image with others and you will see the DIFFERENCE. We are so CONFIDENT it will last, we offer a 2 YEAR WARRANTY!"

I'd read a few forum posts where people had bought kits off ebay but then discovered that they were cheaply made and failed almost immediately. I'm guessing it should really read as these are not cheap rubbish regulators, they are actually fit for the purpose.

@Madmustang thanks for the vid, that's a great help.

fritz
 
Fritz said:
Afternoon gents

@Nodge68 My wording, not really theirs. I don't know if I'm allowed to link directly to the add in the forum but the wording is as follows:

"These are NOT cheap WINDOW REGULATORS, they are built to LAST! Compare our image with others and you will see the DIFFERENCE. We are so CONFIDENT it will last, we offer a 2 YEAR WARRANTY!"

I'd read a few forum posts where people had bought kits off ebay but then discovered that they were cheaply made and failed almost immediately. I'm guessing it should really read as these are not cheap rubbish regulators, they are actually fit for the purpose.

@Madmustang thanks for the vid, that's a great help.

fritz
Click to expand...
Nodge is our resident expert at rewiring window regulators so he uses cheap rewire kits. The rest of us (especially me, I had two failures) are not so competent and buy complete regulators. £28 doesn't sound too expensive for a complete regulator so I'd be curious to see it.
I can't think of any reason for not posting a link to the kit you bought if you don't mind.
 
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