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Disco 2 another ACE leak thread

Discussion in 'Land Rover Discovery' started by Mort1969, Apr 9, 2016.

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  1. Mort1969

    Mort1969 Member

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    Hi All , whilst putting my New bumper on today i noticed a rather large pool of oil under the ACE block unit.
    on inspection it looks like the bottom pipe seal has gone, pipes look ok , dirty but ok.
    Question is this, after reading all the threads on repairing it or remove it , i can't seem to find anything on how to repair this bit? ( i have attached photo)
    or do i just ditch the system ( yes i know it can be good etc but i don't have the resources or time as it's my daily driver to keep fixing the ace if it's always going to leak. ) at the moment the oil is ****ing out so she is now of the road, but i do need her on the road by the end of the week. https://goo.gl/photos/RpFvE9o2mFoCAWQm9
    Is this the bit i need to get ? if so how does the pipe attach as i see no clips etc
    https://www.britishparts.co.uk/products/7240-ace-valve-block-seal-RVW100010
    thanks for your help

    Mort
     
  2. MJI

    MJI Well-Known Member

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    Join D2Boys club and look at the thread there
     
  3. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    the plate help on by those 2 nuts has tapered holes which hold collets that wrap around a flare in the pipe, those hold pipe secure, when you fit seal pack cover in vaseline and ensure hole is very clean ie no corrosion around outer seat ,and carefully twist in seal pack as far as you can then finish with a hammer, when you pull fitting dolly out check o rings seem to be in place before carefully fitting pipe ensuring its central and straight so you dont snag out an o ring
    collet anr6700
    upload_2016-4-16_3-2-30.jpeg
     
  4. Mort1969

    Mort1969 Member

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    Thanks james. Is there a part number?
     
  5. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    yes above the pic anr6700
     
  6. Mort1969

    Mort1969 Member

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    Thanks sory mised it
     
  7. Mort1969

    Mort1969 Member

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    Does the system need bleeding? If so how? And what fluid do i use.
    And shall i do both?

    Thanks for your help james
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2016
  8. MJI

    MJI Well-Known Member

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    Go for a spirited drive and you use cold climate fluid
     
  9. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    doesnt need any special bleeding just top up res after a drive , it uses cold climate fluid stc50519, but dexron 2 or 3 are more than adequate or an hydraulic oil
     
  10. Mort1969

    Mort1969 Member

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    Hi James
    Had a look today, i loosened the 2 bolts off and the plate seemed to come free, so hopefully i can split it all apart ok.
    You mentioned a fitting dolly and O Ring. do i need to get these separately ? or do they come with the collet, i'm going to order the bits tomorrow , hopefully this sorts it

    Sorry for all the questions
    Paul
     
  11. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    seal pack comes already fitted on its own "fitting tool " rvw100010, if its just bottom pipe dont disturb top ,you will most likely ned a new bottom pipe they tend to leak at the weakest point ,the flair collets secure to
     
    tulipandthistle likes this.
  12. Mort1969

    Mort1969 Member

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    Hi James
    After further investigation after splitting down the unit , the pipe was gone as well, and it looked like i would have done more damage to the top pipe as well removing it, all the back end was really rusty, front pipes were looking quite bad as well,
    On reflection of this i decided on a financial , and " i don't have the luxury to have Poppy off the road or pay for someone to do it for me"
    I have converted to normal Anti Roll bars.
    Wasn't a bad job , but i could have had someone help me as it was quite heavy getting the new roll bars ( especially the front one) in place on my own.

    Have i done the right thing? not sure only time will tell, but She seems to drive Well still and it's one less thing to worry about.

    Thanks for you help

    Until next time ..... :)

    Mort
     
  13. jamesmartin

    jamesmartin Well-Known Member

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    i dont blame you, i swap a few to solid roll bars , replacing the pipes isnt an easy or nice job or very cheap
     
  14. listerdiesel

    listerdiesel Well-Known Member Events Planner

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    We swapped ours while the system was still working OK, longer-term it was a decision that I think was right, and I bought the ARB's years ago with some axles, so only really cost the new links and new ARB rubbers.

    It is a bit of a pig to get the retainers over the new rubbers and into the chassis slot, but did it in the end.

    Peter
     
  15. nick911

    nick911 New Member

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    Mine started leaking badly in the same area, middle of the car under drivers seat, and had to go in for the pipes to be replaced at a cost of around £800! The garage did ask if I wanted to have an anti roll bar fitted instead.
     
  16. Mort1969

    Mort1969 Member

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    Well after a few days, so far i'm happy, Going Green laning tomorrow weather permitting, will see how she handles on a longer run than to and from work.
    I would say it's a easy enough job, just make sure you have a full compliment of large grips to help with the front bar and clips ( if your doing it on your own like i did)
    Take your time, and get the truck as high as you can off the floor safely.

    Cut the lower link arm bolts away and your laughing.
    The only job i haven't done yet is change the pulley, but i have put a loop back in on the main and return pipes just after the front wheel arch .
     
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