Orange ace light

Hi,

The orange ace light is in my dashboard. I have read the faults with my nanocom and it reads ‘pressure signal out of range’ and ‘hydraulic pressure to low’. My first guess is that the pressure transducer is faulty. I tested the input too On the nanocom and all the pressure measures read 0. I tested the valve solenoids On the ecu plug and the dcv 1 measures 6.3 ohm and dcv2 6.7 ohm. The third one measures 9 ohm. Now i’m not sure what realy is broken so maybe someone knows more Reading this.

Thanks in advance
Kind regards Manu

Watching this carefully as I am going through similar problems. I don't have a nanocom but I do have a Foxwell, I just don't know what to look for.
But mine did say 0A06 pressure signal out of range, which means little to me. Out of range in which direction, too much or not enough?
OEOO DCV fault. Very general.
1006 main relay test failed
1001 hydraulic pressure too low, which at least means something although how to rectify it is another matter.
I then cleared the faults and reset it to scan. This time only the OAO6 and 1006 came back.

So I think if you had a DCV fault your Nanocom would have told you about it.

For the moment I replaced the relay, ran it around a bit, switched the engine on and off a few times and at the moment the light is out. There is plenty of fluid in the reservoir.
I have never changed the filter, which is a thing I have on my list to do before I finish servicing it.
I am experienced in older cars but electronics I am not at all knowledgeable about.
Maybe @sierrafery will pop on and give us both pointers as to what to do?
I have done a "live data" run. But I think I've wiped it.
I could always do another one to see if it tells me, or anyone else, anything.

Good luck with this and do tell us how you get on!
Stan.

Reggaerover said:

I tested the input too On the nanocom and all the pressure measures read 0

Click to expand...

Hi, unfortunately you can't 100% rely on nanocom when it comes to ACE fault codes. The problem is that once the warning light is on the main relay is off so the PCV doesnt get power in order to send the system into "locked bars" condition and the inputs are irrelevant in that status. Remove the relay, bridge the two wider parallel cavities in the fusebox(where the relay's contact goes) with a wire, read inputs that way and report the results... then i'll tell you more

Reggaerover said:

I tested the valve solenoids On the ecu plug and the dcv 1 measures 6.3 ohm and dcv2 6.7 ohm. The third one measures 9 ohm

Click to expand...

Those readings are quite high, i measured directly the solenoids on the bench, the DCVs were both 2.7 ohm and the PCV 5.7 ohm... is your's a facelift modell?

sierrafery said:

Hi, unfortunately you can't 100% rely on nanocom when it comes to ACE fault codes. The problem is that once the warning light is on the main relay is off so the PCV doesnt get power in order to send the system into "locked bars" condition and the inputs are irrelevant in that status. Remove the relay, bridge the two wider parallel cavities in the fusebox(where the relay's contact goes) with a wire, read inputs that way and report the results... then i'll tell you more


Those readings are quite high, i measured directly the solenoids on the bench, the DCVs were both 2.7 ohm and the PCV 5.7 ohm... is your's a facelift modell?

Click to expand...

So I put a bridge on the ace relais and now I do have readings. I put the pictures with the reply. My disco is a 2003 facelift indeed

Reggaerover said:

So I put a bridge on the ace relais and now I do have readings. I put the pictures with the reply. My disco is a 2003 facelift indeed

Click to expand...

I did see that the pressure is only 13-14 bar, maybe I should clean the filter or is that useless in this case ?

Cleaning the filter would not hurt but it might not be the problem here. The pressure transducer is the first suspect in this case provided you have serious fluid activity in the reservoir at idle... here are readings(with comments) from my well working system retrieved with hawkeye which is a bit different:


1. DCVs (both) - .001A
2. Pressure control valve: 0 - .012A
3. Pressure sensor: varies between 16 and 19 but if it's out of that range the transducer is gone
4. Residual pressure: between 3 - 6 Bar but can be higher after the vehicle was driven or the ambient temp is low
5. System pressure: around 6 Bar fluctuating
6. Accelerometers: around 0.01

Was going to say pressure sensor on front of block.

sierrafery said:

Cleaning the filter would not hurt but it might not be the problem here. The pressure transducer is the first suspect in this case provided you have serious fluid activity in the reservoir at idle... here are readings(with comments) from my well working system retrieved with hawkeye which is a bit different:


1. DCVs (both) - .001A
2. Pressure control valve: 0 - .012A
3. Pressure sensor: varies between 16 and 19 but if it's out of that range the transducer is gone
4. Residual pressure: between 3 - 6 Bar but can be higher after the vehicle was driven or the ambient temp is low
5. System pressure: around 6 Bar fluctuating
6. Accelerometers: around 0.01

Click to expand...

So there is serieus fluid activity in my reservoir at idle so does that mean the pump is good ? I Will order a pressure transducer and try that first. Is it possible to take out the filter without losing to much fluid? Otherwise I have to order an extra can of ace oil too.

Yes the pump is OK then, you can be handy to move fast and clog the filter's port with something while you clean it then you'll not lose much fluid... i forced a rubber bung in there when i did mine

sierrafery said:

Cleaning the filter would not hurt but it might not be the problem here. The pressure transducer is the first suspect in this case provided you have serious fluid activity in the reservoir at idle... here are readings(with comments) from my well working system retrieved with hawkeye which is a bit different:


1. DCVs (both) - .001A
2. Pressure control valve: 0 - .012A
3. Pressure sensor: varies between 16 and 19 but if it's out of that range the transducer is gone
4. Residual pressure: between 3 - 6 Bar but can be higher after the vehicle was driven or the ambient temp is low
5. System pressure: around 6 Bar fluctuating
6. Accelerometers: around 0.01

Click to expand...

Thanks mate.
Those six measures are so good to help peeps like me who have no/little idea what they should be. My live data will be a lot more informed now.
Cheers.
Stan.

sierrafery said:

Yes the pump is OK then, you can be handy to move fast and clog the filter's port with something while you clean it then you'll not lose much fluid... i forced a rubber bung in there when i did mine

Click to expand...

Good to know, but at the price they are I think I'll just replace mine. then I can clean the old one, so I have one to swop back in, should I live long enough to do 70k more miles in mine!

sierrafery said:

Cleaning the filter would not hurt but it might not be the problem here. The pressure transducer is the first suspect in this case provided you have serious fluid activity in the reservoir at idle... here are readings(with comments) from my well working system retrieved with hawkeye which is a bit different:


1. DCVs (both) - .001A
2. Pressure control valve: 0 - .012A
3. Pressure sensor: varies between 16 and 19 but if it's out of that range the transducer is gone
4. Residual pressure: between 3 - 6 Bar but can be higher after the vehicle was driven or the ambient temp is low
5. System pressure: around 6 Bar fluctuating
6. Accelerometers: around 0.01

Click to expand...

Is there Any possibility to just deactivate the ace system without messing with the Safety of the car? I was just about to sell the d2 and now the problem shows up. I looked to order the sensor but that is 150£ without sending and I live in Belgium so that may take a long time or cost to get here.

Reggaerover said:

Is there Any possibility to just deactivate the ace system without messing with the Safety of the car? I was just about to sell the d2 and now the problem shows up. I looked to order the sensor but that is 150£ without sending and I live in Belgium so that may take a long time or cost to get here.

Click to expand...

Take the fuse out? I guess you would have to declare it though to the new owner.

Reggaerover said:

Is there Any possibility to just deactivate the ace system without messing with the Safety of the car? I was just about to sell the d2 and now the problem shows up. I looked to order the sensor but that is 150£ without sending and I live in Belgium so that may take a long time or cost to get here.

Click to expand...

So are you absolutely sure this is the problem, and if so which sensor are you talking about getting?

Stanleysteamer said:

So are you absolutely sure this is the problem, and if so which sensor are you talking about getting?

Click to expand...

Not 100% sure but I cant figure out what else it can be so I hope this is it. Its the ace pressure transducer. Located on the side of the ace valve block

Anaconda said:

Take the fuse out? I guess you would have to declare it though to the new owner.

Click to expand...

Yeah if the sensor doesn’t fix it I guess I try to sell it with the light on and tell them about it.

There IS a way in which the car sets the ACE to "safe" mode but I cannot remmeber where I read it, it might be in the owner's manual, but I doubt it, it could possibly be in the Haynes or it might be in RAVE.

Maybe @sierrafery could tell us as he knows all this stuff very well indeed.
Sorry to be not much help.
EDIT, I know you can drive it with the amber light on, it says this in the owner's manual, but it is a much worse idea to drive it with the red one on. I had to drive mine with the red one on as I was in a set of roadworks on an Autoroute with no hard shoulder. As soon as a refuge came up I pulled the Disco and trailer into it. Checked for leaks, of which there were none, then switched the engine off, counted to ten then restarted. Thankfully the light did not reappear.
Bl00dy thing!

Stanleysteamer said:

There IS a way in which the car sets the ACE to "safe" mode but I cannot remmeber where I read it, it might be in the owner's manual, but I doubt it, it could possibly be in the Haynes or it might be in RAVE.

Maybe @sierrafery could tell us as he knows all this stuff very well indeed.
Sorry to be not much help.
EDIT, I know you can drive it with the amber light on, it says this in the owner's manual, but it is a much worse idea to drive it with the red one on. I had to drive mine with the red one on as I was in a set of roadworks on an Autoroute with no hard shoulder. As soon as a refuge came up I pulled the Disco and trailer into it. Checked for leaks, of which there were none, then switched the engine off, counted to ten then restarted. Thankfully the light did not reappear.
Bl00dy thing!

Click to expand...

Yeah the car drives completely normal like before but now just with the Amber ace light on the dash, no oil leaks or anything the reservoir remains completely full to the Max so it is weird.

Reggaerover said:

Is there Any possibility to just deactivate the ace system without messing with the Safety of the car?

Click to expand...

The ACE was conceived so as the car to remain safe even if there is a system malfunction hence the "locked bars" default mode when it acts like those fitted with conventional ARBs. The only crytical issues are when the fluid is lost due to a major leak, then the vehicle becomes "floppy" and the pump can get seized due to lack of oil and ruin the drive belt. You can disable the ACE warning in the BCU settings / intrument pack but would be nice to inform the new owner about a system fault though

sierrafery said:

The ACE was conceived so as the car to remain safe even if there is a system malfunction hence the "locked bars" default mode when it acts like those fitted with conventional ARBs. The only crytical issues are when the fluid is lost due to a major leak, then the vehicle becomes "floppy" and the pump can get seized due to lack of oil and ruin the drive belt. You can disable the ACE warning in the BCU settings / intrument pack but would be nice to inform the new owner about a system fault though

Click to expand...

Okey good to know if the sensor doesn’t work I try it like this and inform the new owner of the d2 thanks for all the help!