jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
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- 91,879
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- louth lincs
i meant discokids vehicle
Another 90 Rebuild
- Thread starter Al2O3
- Start date
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- 11,023
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- North of the Wall
Ha ha, sorry James.
Do you think my schematic diagram is correct then?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
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- 91,879
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- louth lincs
yes seems right, earlier vehicles had both sides split after the valve
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- 11,023
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- North of the Wall
Cheers, thought it was. Worth checking though 
Discokids
Well-Known Member
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- 3,160
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- Derbyshire
Sorry to hijack but pheww! I thought MINE was wrong. Galv looks good by the way, I took some stuff to my blast guy yesterday and hopefully get it back tomorrow evening. Then off to the galvaniser. Can't wait.
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- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
I think James was questioning your set up!
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- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
That's interesting Gatso. However, my plastic wheel arches are very thin. I think they are just a cover for the sound insulation. They have been on the vehicle since I bought it ten years ago as well as a set of steel arches. My original steel arches were pretty shot, so I bought some newer second hand ones and I'm just fitting the old plastic arches inside those as was
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
It's been a tough job fitting the front wings. I'd spent best part of a couple of days already, before today!! Anyhow, been jiggling fixings around for a long time again today. I think the problem is too many new parts. New bulkhead, new chassis, new steel inner wheel arches means the combination of all of their fixings makes it difficult to get them all lined up. If I fixed the wing to the bulkhead the front of the wing wouldn't line up with the chassis bolt hole. If I fastened the front of the wing to the chassis (not tight) this was the gap to the bulkhead.
I began thinking the three washers it took to get the bulkhead, doors and tub to fit were causing an issue. You can see them in the picture.
Got all fixings bolted down, but the tension is is quite high Mind you, it means the front wings are rock solid
Looks ok in the picture below, but the passenger wing has a bit of a slope on it.
Marked the section that needs to be cut out of the tub repair section.
Cut it out and Dinitrolled the edge
Had to do this because the fuel tank wouldn't fit in.
Talking of fuel tank, I think I have messed mine up.
It came with a rubber stopper in the sender hole. But it ended up with a split in it. I stored the tank in the rear tub, with a tarp over it, but must have got some water in the stopper which leaked through the slit. It made a rust patch about 3 inches in diameter in the tank.
So, thinking I was clever I thought I'll put some vinegar in it to remove the rust. It did remove the rust where the vinegar lay in a pool. But, everywhere else where it had splashed or washed over before settling, caused it to rust like wildfire
Not a great picture, but the lighter area on the middle left is where all the rust used to be. Surrounding now is even more rust than I had before!!!
I don't know what to do. Any advice anyone? It's a new tank!! The rust must be wafer thin, does diesel inhibit rust anyway?
I'd spent best part of a couple of days already, before today!! Anyhow, been jiggling fixings around for a long time again today. I think the problem is too many new parts. New bulkhead, new chassis, new steel inner wheel arches means the combination of all of their fixings makes it difficult to get them all lined up. If I fixed the wing to the bulkhead the front of the wing wouldn't line up with the chassis bolt hole. If I fastened the front of the wing to the chassis (not tight) this was the gap to the bulkhead.
I began thinking the three washers it took to get the bulkhead, doors and tub to fit were causing an issue. You can see them in the picture.
Got all fixings bolted down, but the tension is is quite high
Mind you, it means the front wings are rock solid Looks ok in the picture below, but the passenger wing has a bit of a slope on it.
Marked the section that needs to be cut out of the tub repair section.
Cut it out and Dinitrolled the edge
Had to do this because the fuel tank wouldn't fit in.
Talking of fuel tank, I think I have messed mine up.
It came with a rubber stopper in the sender hole. But it ended up with a split in it. I stored the tank in the rear tub, with a tarp over it, but must have got some water in the stopper which leaked through the slit. It made a rust patch about 3 inches in diameter in the tank.
So, thinking I was clever I thought I'll put some vinegar in it to remove the rust. It did remove the rust where the vinegar lay in a pool. But, everywhere else where it had splashed or washed over before settling, caused it to rust like wildfire
Not a great picture, but the lighter area on the middle left is where all the rust used to be. Surrounding now is even more rust than I had before!!!
I don't know what to do. Any advice anyone? It's a new tank!! The rust must be wafer thin, does diesel inhibit rust anyway?
Discokids
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,160
- Location
- Derbyshire
Chuck some Fertan in it.
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
I need to google that stuff, I've never had any before.
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Well, something has gone right today.
Now that the front wings are on and they are not being stored in the tub, I could put the rear door on. (the wings were just too long when sat in there to get the door on) Amazingly it went on no bother.
The hinges are the originals stripped and repainted, with new stainless pin kits and stainless fixings.
The shut lines are good, I'm happy with them up the sides and top.
Along the bottom is bob on parallel and a nice small gap too.
Got both of the refurbished side windows in.
I'm a little concerned about the side windows and the seals. The rivets are smaller diameter than the usual 4.8mm at 4mm. I couldn't find any aluminium with stainless mandrel that size when I was buying them and so went for all stainless. I suspect, with the stainless being harder, they do not collapse and compress as easily as the aluminium ones. So, they do not pull in as strongly. I'm not convinced the seal has been squashed enough, I'll have to trickle water over it to do a test. I bought the right seals but they seemed pretty thick compared to what came off. I put it down to the originals being compressed for 20 years, but now I'm not so sure.
When I sort the mess out that I made of the fuel tank, I'll be able to get that in then get the seat box, tunnel and floor plates in.
Now that the front wings are on and they are not being stored in the tub, I could put the rear door on. (the wings were just too long when sat in there to get the door on) Amazingly it went on no bother.
The hinges are the originals stripped and repainted, with new stainless pin kits and stainless fixings.
The shut lines are good, I'm happy with them up the sides and top.
Along the bottom is bob on parallel and a nice small gap too.
Got both of the refurbished side windows in.
I'm a little concerned about the side windows and the seals. The rivets are smaller diameter than the usual 4.8mm at 4mm. I couldn't find any aluminium with stainless mandrel that size when I was buying them and so went for all stainless. I suspect, with the stainless being harder, they do not collapse and compress as easily as the aluminium ones. So, they do not pull in as strongly. I'm not convinced the seal has been squashed enough, I'll have to trickle water over it to do a test. I bought the right seals but they seemed pretty thick compared to what came off. I put it down to the originals being compressed for 20 years, but now I'm not so sure.
When I sort the mess out that I made of the fuel tank, I'll be able to get that in then get the seat box, tunnel and floor plates in.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
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- 6,369
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- Doncaster
Looks stunning mate. really does. I'd be chuffed with that
Paint looks awesome, red/white, love it as a lr colour scheme. Some times I think I should just stump up and pay a professional.
Paint looks awesome, red/white, love it as a lr colour scheme. Some times I think I should just stump up and pay a professional.
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- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Looks stunning mate. really does. I'd be chuffed with that
Paint looks awesome, red/white, love it as a lr colour scheme. Some times I think I should just stump up and pay a professional.
Cheers, Aaron. It's the original colour scheme. We've had it for ten years and it's well known in the area and so just wouldn't be the same a different colour. I must admit I think it's probably £1500 well spent. I don't know if you remember 18 months ago, when I started, I was all for buying the gear and painting it myself. Investigating guns, compressors and polytunnels.
Pleased I decided against it now.discomania
Well-Known Member
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Ok, Aaron here are some pics.
I haven't bothered with the dismantling pics or refurbishing the axles. Man handled the chassis out of the garage and sat it on the axles to day, so here are the pics as promised when I got to this stage.
Not sure about the red suspension parts and steering rods
Had the front shocks on, but took them off. Couldn't compress the bushes enough at the top to get the nuts on. Can someone tell me of I have the washers back on in the right order. The fitting instructions are worse than useless.
Also, don't tighten up any of your bushes until you get the chassis weighted down. If you don't you will stress your bushes which will fail very prematurely.
discomania
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Got the bar finished. See picture - spent all day yesterday from 9am until 7pm knackered.
Got around to sticking some bits back on the Landy today. No washers for the anti-roll bar joints. I'm sure it had some when I took them off. Typically the pictures I took don't quite show clearly and the picture in the manual is too small. The joint didn't come with a washer, just a castellated nut and a split pin. Should there be washers where I've put arrows.
Offered up the gear box cross member and it seems way wide. The local Landy specialist, where I bought it, did say you often had to hammer them in.
What about the galv on the chassis? Is this usual? It's a Richards chassis.
Yeah there should be a fairly thick washer on the ball joint to chassis and one onto the rubber also.
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Cheers, discomania. Nothing fully tightened up yet underneath. Will sort washers out. You've gone back a bit, reading those posts!
discomania
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Thanks for the jacking tip, then. I wouldn't have thought of that. a - because I wouldn't have thought the rails would jack out easily and b - because I would be worried about damaging my new chassis
Nothing ever fits on a LR. I had a new 300tdi chassis and then went to fit a new bulkhead to it... had to jack the bulkhead apart at the pillars to get it to slide over the mountings on the outriggers.
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- 11,023
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Yeah, I've had a few things not fit. Fortunately, the new bulkhead fitted perfectly.
discomania
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Not been at my PC much so I wasn't on the zone. Great to come back and find a build post like this! Do you need any bits, I have various things kicking about from my 90 re
Behind all great jobs is a Henry Hoover!
