Another 90 Rebuild

Al2O3 said:

Cheers, Aaron. That's very much appreciated from you. I get frustrated at how little I get done at a given time. I know it's a combination of doing this for the first time (lack of experience) and worrying about getting things right (not a bad thing I suppose) and this makes me take three times longer to do stuff than it should.
As you say, it;s coming along though.

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It's credit where it's due mate. You have done a cracking job and it's looking great.
I get a majorly frustrated at the lack of progress most weekends, but I'm starting to realize it is what it is and it takes as long as it takes, theirs no point putting unrealistic timescales on stuff as you're destined for failure.
Oh and just seen the door alignment pictures, pretty damn good bud

Ade90 said:

The small bracket might be a left over from the old style air filters fitted to 2.5 petrol and diesels?

If I could upload pictures from my ancient iPad I could show you the air filter fitted to my old chassis using the bracket. The new chassis i had from Marsland is 200Tdi spec and includes the bracket.

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gse1986 said:

Remember that this bracket is going into the wheel arch. So any fluid pipes or air filters wouldn't be there, as they're in the engine bay!

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Thanks for checking that out for me gents. The bracket is going to end up behind the wheel arch, engine bay side, as I was wrong before. I'm still not sure what it's for. The nearest thing to it, hanging there, is a little clip around a power steering fluid pipe, but it's a hell of a stretch to drag it across to the bracket. Doesn't quite seem right! It may well be for a 200Tdi air filter and so is not needed for me. I'll have another look through my hundreds of dismantling photos!

aaronmorris said:

It's credit where it's due mate. You have done a cracking job and it's looking great.
I get a majorly frustrated at the lack of progress most weekends, but I'm starting to realize it is what it is and it takes as long as it takes, theirs no point putting unrealistic timescales on stuff as you're destined for failure.
Oh and just seen the door alignment pictures, pretty damn good bud

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If you get frustrated at a lack of progress, god help the rest of us! You're like Billy Whizz, man!
I'm getting increasingly happier about the door alignment, mate. The thing is it's not something you really focus on day to day, so when you have to set it up you expect it to be spot on. Then you get out and see a few new ones and it cheers you up!

When I was looking at my mates 60 plate I noticed it had plastic inner wheel arches! Didn't know that had happened. The thing is I have already bought second had galv/zinc plated ones. I'm thinking the plastic ones must have a few benefits - lighter, quieter! Anyone know why metal ones are better?

Looking great mate. It's coming on now and has given me a bit of a kick up the A**e to get on with mine. Been buying a few bits over the past few weeks so now need to crack on. If it looks anything like yours when I'm done I'll be a happy bunny.
Keep up the good work.

defenderdog said:

Looking great mate. It's coming on now and has given me a bit of a kick up the A**e to get on with mine. Been buying a few bits over the past few weeks so now need to crack on. If it looks anything like yours when I'm done I'll be a happy bunny.
Keep up the good work.

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Yeah, you've been quiet for a while on your rebuild thread. How's it going, what bits have you been buying? Your Lanny was in a similar condition to mine, so I reckon our shopping list won't be too far apart.

Well, another weekend where I didn't get done as much as I had hoped.
Not to worry, still got a little done so getting there slowly.
Tried fitting the heater box, but it wouldn't fit. The holes in the footwell panel did not line up, so I had to drill and saw slots in the bracket.

The thick rubber seal was in no great shape and it was about £16 for a new one. Plus the original didn't fit that well up against the bulkhead. The hole in the heater box is massive, but the hole through the bulkhead is quite small.

I decided to try and fabricate a cover with the correct sized hole to fit the bulkhead.
I made a card template and used a section of the old rear door skin.

I'm hoping this will give and easier and tighter fit to the bulkhead.

I'd bought some 4mm air and water tight rivets for the rear windows.

However, when I thought they would be long enough I hadn't taken in to consideration the thickness of the new seal. That's as far as I got, I'll need to buy some longer rivets.
So, I turned my attention to the front windows. Got the new runners cut and glued in place as well as the plastic filler trim. The butyl tape I'd bought arrived this week and so I could line the door with plastic.

I've put this in to guide any water ingress from the window down to the bottom of the door without flowing over everything. I've bought pipe to run from the upper drain holes through the door frame to outside, but I am having second thoughts about ventilation in there if I block all the holes. Some water will get in the frame from the door mechanism etc, question is how much? I've decided to leave the pipe idea for now. I think I'll leave the door card off so that I can see how much water I'm dealing with.
Got the glass and mechanisms set up in both front doors.

Shame about the rear windows, but hey ho.

Al2O3 said:

Well, another weekend where I didn't get done as much as I had hoped.
N

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Me and you both, you're not the only one mate
I can see why people pay the money for galv bulkheads now. Had another day on it this weekend, taking way too long to repair.

aaronmorris said:

Me and you both, you're not the only one mate
I can see why people pay the money for galv bulkheads now. Had another day on it this weekend, taking way too long to repair.

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Think I caught the enter button with my hand there! Had to finish the post via the edit button!

I can imagine rebuilding a bulkhead will be tough! Making sure you get the geometry right will be a worry and time consuming. I should imagine you are doing a lot of head scratching and planning. I'm guessing this is your first bulkhead rebuild to this extent? Thinking takes up a lot of time - does for me anyway. Perhaps I'm slow

Al2O3 said:

Think I caught the enter button with my hand there! Had to finish the post via the edit button!

I can imagine rebuilding a bulkhead will be tough! Making sure you get the geometry right will be a worry and time consuming. I should imagine you are doing a lot of head scratching and planning. I'm guessing this is your first bulkhead rebuild to this extent? Thinking takes up a lot of time - does for me anyway. Perhaps I'm slow

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Pretty much aye, I've done repairs before but I'm being over cautious I think as I'm worried about how the repairs will look once galved. I want perfection but I just don't think it will happen.
And yes, head scratching takes me a while too, but it's better than diving in and ****ing it up. I'm just an impatient twunt more than anything

No, that's the right approach, mate. Patients = hard work and a lot of will power, but you get the rewards in the end. The more accurate you make it now, the fewer parts you'll have to fettle later to get them to fit.

Another disappointing weekend. Really having to dig deep to find the patience needed
Rained all day Saturday which wound me up no end!
All week, after work, I've been repeatedly rubbing down and rust treating the air box. So during rainy Saturday I got to painting it with rustoleum. Also flattened the paint on the new fuel tank and put a couple of coats of rustoleum on it too. Put four coats on the seams and around sender holes.

Another set of longer rivets arrived through the week, so had hoped to fit rear windows this morning.
They are 'blind' pop rivets. Air and water tight, I thought that's handy for the windows! One less way for water to get in. Sending them back!

They just don't pull down. This is the back of one of the rivets after being 'popped' by the rivet gun!

It's still parallel
Just didn't pull the frame up against the panel and had no effect in compressing the seal. So that's fitting the windows rolling over to a third week.
Abandoning the rear windows I moved on to the windscreen and to cut a long story short did this.

Got the radiator surround and slam panel stripped. I'd painted them a year ago, after the strip down, but they were already breaking through. Hoping to get them galvanised.

Got some bits back from the blasters tonight. I'm away all weekend so won't get anything done. Hoping to get these to the galvanisers on Monday morning before work, if they open early enough.

Look nice and clean. Those brackets on the right hand side are especially worth looking after. Mine were rusty and pitted so I checked the prices for new ones and they're well over £100 each. So mine just got wire brushed and painted and have gone back in. For those who don't recognise them, they go from the rear cross member to the seat belt mount for the side facing seats in the back.

Yeah, my rear seat belt brackets were passed it really. A tremendous LZ member, tyre man dave sold me them over a year ago. They've cleaned up nicely.
Pleased you liked the Adder picture! Sadly, I've got loads of them. Always loved the natural world and wildlife. Often go Adder, Lizard and Slow Worm hunting. This is a good part of the world to watch them.

Got to the steel company this morning and picked up some shiny parts

Set them out in the same arrangement as the shot blast stuff, just to compare.
It cost £24 to get them done - a few people have been asking. I think that is reasonable.

That little lot looks BANG TIDY!
Making me definitely want to get my cappings done now.

Yours is looking great. Galvanised cappings are a defo. If yours are in reasonable nick, it'll work out cheaper to pay for shot blasting and galv treatment

Tried to fit my shiny painted fuel tank today, but it wouldn't go in! I've repaired the tub strike plates with YRM ones. They're great, but I think the drivers side must need a shoulder cut out of it so the fuel tank will go in. I've never seen that mentioned anywhere and it isn't on the YRM workshop section. Anyway, I've emailed them to see what's what before I take to it with a saw. Not sure what else it could be though!

Fitted the heater box, having fabricated a short bit of duct to take up the space the massive rubber seal tries to fill.
At least I got something fitted


I've bought some vent screens to go in, but realised this afternoon that the dash will have to come out again to rivet them in

Got the threads tapped out of the rad surround and fitted it together.


I've bought a load of replacement rubbers so can't fit it yet. They should arrive by Tuesday with the new windscreen!

It's progress, but slow. So near and yet so far.

Decided to get the rear seat anchor bars fitted today.
Had to re-drill some holes in the wheel arches because I'd bonded some repair panels over the previous corroded holes.

Some of the repair panels are underneath and some are on both sides.

Anyway, also had to drill one hole in the seat belt bar bracket plate to match the anchor brackets I'd just had galvanised. I bought them off Tyre Man Dave, but the bolt holes were in slightly different positions to my originals.

Bolted it all down with M10 stainless bolts.
This is the bracket to rear crossmember bolted up.


Pulled the wiring loom through on both sides to the rear. I've labelled a lot of these up, but there is a bunch I didn't for some reason. No idea what they are for at the moment

How did you feed the wiring loom through the chassis (or did you run it along the top?). I'm hopefully getting my axles on this week coming, so would be good to get the loom through before I get much further

I pulled it through the chassis. First I used some garden wire. Green plastic coated stuff, I had a reel of it in amongst the garden stuff in the garage. Fed that through, then tied a strong cord to that and pulled the cord through. I tied the cord to the loom about 50cm from the end of the loom. Then I taped the loom to the cord along that 50cm of overlap. I taped connector blocks down in order so they weren't bunched together. Pulled the lot through with the cord and when the connectors got to the hole in the chassis I could waggle each one through in turn. Worked well.