Allmakes TD5 fuel pump and inspection hatch location

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We seem to be travelling the same road! I thought the pump was the root cause, but no... In the end it was the injector copper washers that solved the problems. For the sake of a few quid and a couple of hours, it certainly injected (sorry about the pun) new life into the TD5. Let us know how it goes. :D:D

Will do

It's bloody annoying. I figure that I might aswell change my injector loom while I'm at it.
 
We seem to be travelling the same road! I thought the pump was the root cause, but no... In the end it was the injector copper washers that solved the problems. For the sake of a few quid and a couple of hours, it certainly injected (sorry about the pun) new life into the TD5. Let us know how it goes. :D:D

I finally got around to changing my injector washers today and although I'm yet to test drive it properly it does sem to have done the trick as it didn't cut out after being left to run for 20 mins or so and also started back up without any problems. I'll update things again after giving it a proper drive.
 
:rolly:

Failing that I'll have to make Fridays a cup of tea at your place:p
 
For those contemplating changing their injector washers.....

The first thing to do is remove the plastic engine cover.

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There's one 13mm bolt on the drivers side of the engine cover (I've got a differemt bolt than most on the driver side due to the captive nut on the fuel cooler coming adrift a while back)......

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and two on the passenger side......

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After removing the engine cover the next step was to disconnect the breather pipe from the top of the rocker cover and remove the bolts around the edge of the rocker cover...

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After you've removed all the bolts you then need to remove the inserts from each of the bolt holes around the edge of the rocker cover....

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Then remove the rocker cover to reveal......

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Now you need to remove the plu on top of each injector by squeezing the metal spring clip and gently pulling the plug off.

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You also need to squeeze the plastic clips on the side of the multi connector shown being held in the photo and pull the plug downwards.

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You can now lift out the injector loom.

Next step is to remove the locking nuts on the injectors and undo the screws to release the tension on the rocker shaft .....

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You now need to unbolt the rockershaft itself....

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and then remove it....

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Next you need to unbolt and remove each of the injector clamps....

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You can then remove the injectors There is a proper injector puller available but we used a slide hammer. Some peope have had success with a pry bar or similar lodged under the body of the injector (not the solenoid) but we couldn't budge them this way hence the slide hammer.

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After removing the injectors it was plain to see that the carbon deposits on the copper washers....

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And in the injector bores.....

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Afte a quick clean up of the bore it was looking much better....

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we sorted the injectors one by one to save muddling them up and minimise the risk of dropping anything down the injector bores.

You may need to turn the engine over using a spanner or socket and bar. I removed the fan cowl and viscous fan to do this to make access easier. Unfortunately I don't have any pics of this bit or any of the re-assembly.:eek:

After the injectors are out you need to remove the old copper washer, remove and replace the O ring, gently clean the injector tip of any carbon deposits and the injectot bore, fit the new copper washer and then smear a bit of oil on the new O ring to help with re-fiitting the injector.

repeat the above with the remaining 4 injectors and bores.

You then need to re-fit the injector clamps again (torque them up to 32nm)

Re-fit the injector rockershaft and bolt it back down (torque the rocker shaft bolts up to 33nm)

Using a spanner/bar on the bottom pulley, rotate engine by hand and as each cam hits its highest lift point, screw the adjuster down until it bottoms out (you will feel it come to a stop), then back it off again by one whole turn (360 degs), then replace the lock nut and torque it up to 16nm. Repeat for each of the other 4 injectors.

Just to make sure there is nothing nasty going to happen, rotate your engine by hand to ensure the injector will not come into contact with the piston.

Once you are happy, replace the injector loom, re-fit the rocker cover (changing the gasket if required) and bolt it down torquing it up to 9nm, re-fit the rocker cover breather pipe, viscous fan, fan shroud and engine cover and you are done.

You just need to purge the fuel system up and re-start the engine.:cool::cool::cool:
 
So is there a milage that washers seem to fail around? Glad it is fixed!
 
So is there a milage that washers seem to fail around? Glad it is fixed!

I don't know tbh.

My landy is on 140K but had a secondhand head fitted 10-12k ago. The new head came complete with a set of injectors so I don't know if my original injectors are in the new head or the set that came with it. I had the HG done by the engineering company that skimmed and tested the head as I didn't want any problems with warranty which proved to be the right move after the initial head was found to be cracked after they had rebuilt it and I still felt it wasn't right.
 
Glad to hear it! This injector seal problem is looking like a favourite first stop for running problems along with fuel pump issues. Certainly worked for me. :D:D
 
Over time the copper washers can settle before heat hardening and the injector clamps effectively become loose. A simple check on them and a loosen and retorque after about a thousand miles after replacing the copper washers should stop any further problems and you only have to remove the camshaft top cover. My new engine showed two of the injector clamps were at less than half recommended torque after 1200 miles (I did check them when the engine was installed). I retorqued and now after 10k miles they are all still as expected with no signs of further loosening.
 
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