Alarm going off even though battery disconnected?

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Land Ho!

New Member
Posts
180
Location
Surrey
Hi guys.
My car has been sitting still for the last 6 weeks or so. I have started her up a few times since though to keep the battery up etc.
Yesterday though, the alarm started going off. Or at least i think it was the alarm. It was just a loud beeping noise. At first i thought it was a lorry reversing untill i looked out my window and realised it was my car. If it is the alarm, it's a pretty gay noise it makes! lol
The key fob wouldn't turn it off nor could i put the key in and turn it to start her up. I then disconnected the battery and it was still going?
When it stopped and both terminals were removed, i reconnected the battery and off it went again. I then disconnected the battery again which seems to stop it but not right away. It continues to go for several seconds even though the battery is off?
Any ideas?
 
Had this on my vauxhall corsa van i ended up replacing the alarm sounder unit as this has its own battery in it to stop the scum just disconecting your battery to kill you alarm if i remember right it was around 150 quid to sort
 
Hi guys.
My car has been sitting still for the last 6 weeks or so. I have started her up a few times since though to keep the battery up etc.
Yesterday though, the alarm started going off. Or at least i think it was the alarm. It was just a loud beeping noise. At first i thought it was a lorry reversing untill i looked out my window and realised it was my car. If it is the alarm, it's a pretty gay noise it makes! lol
The key fob wouldn't turn it off nor could i put the key in and turn it to start her up. I then disconnected the battery and it was still going?
When it stopped and both terminals were removed, i reconnected the battery and off it went again. I then disconnected the battery again which seems to stop it but not right away. It continues to go for several seconds even though the battery is off?
Any ideas?
The sounder has it's own internal battery....

I would suggest fully charging the car battery - just turning the engine on for a few minutes is not enough to keep the battery charged a good drive for at the very least an hour may just keep it topped up....

Rangies of all model years hates low volts and weak batteries and causes allsorts of headaches....

Charge the battery, and try again.

And yes the stock setup on the alarm is just a punch of beeps which sounds a bit like a truck reversing.....the sound can be changed in the BCU settings I believe.
 
If it is a BBUS sounder there is a method of disconnecting battery to prevent it going off. Switch ignition on and off disconnect battery within 17 seconds.
 
Not sure if my L322 has a BBUS sounder - but I usually wait 5 minutes to allow the SatNav unit to turn off before Disconnection....

The waiting 17seconds I think is for the P38

Yes it is there maybe a different setup for the L332, but don't think he said which it was looked at his profile and it is indeed an L332. BBUS "Battery back up sounder". If it's going off without the battery it must be. Silly me missed the title for some reason. Old age and poverty.
 
Cheers Saint.
Cheers warmers.
I can't turn the ykey at all so can't do that disconect method.
The battery was new earlier this year and i paid for the best i could find. I would've thought it would be ok but obviously not. Another battery it is then. Not worth getting upset over. After all, it needs a new engine first! lol
 
Battery Disconnection process....

DISCONNECTION:

  • Turn off the ignition, and remove the key. (Keep the key close by you though, as the alarm may go off and you need to disable it)
  • Ensure the alarm is disabled.
  • Wait at least 4 minutes for car systems to shut down such as the SatNav and Fuel Gauge
  • Yes, now you can lift the bonnet and disconnect the Earth terminal (brown lead)
  • Now wait 20 minutes for the SRS system to shut down. This is important because of what is to follow!
  • You have a positive lead running to a fitting on the bulkhead in front of the battery, this fitting is used for connecting jump leads. Undo the nut (13mm) at the back, and release the cable, placing out of the way.
  • Now unclip the cover for the battery terminal nut and undo the nut until loose.
  • Now unclip and take apart the multiplug which runs to the positive connector.
  • Now unclip the cover and undo and remove the nut for the battery disconnect system. Lift off the cable and set aside. (This is why item 5 is important, as this thing is designed to explode and break the battery connection in the event of a crash, so it works alongside the SRS)
  • OK, now you can wiggle and remove the positive connector from the battery terminal.
  • Battery disconnected!


RECONNECTION:

  • Refit the battery disconnect lead to the positive connector unit and tighten nut.
  • Refit the positive connector to the battery terminal and tighten nut.
  • Reconnect the “jump lead” cable to the bulkhead and tighten the nut.
  • Reconnect the multiplug.
  • Reconnect the negative terminal and tighten nut.
  • Start the engine, and allow systems to fire up and do their thing.
  • Finally, with the engine running, turn the steering wheel from full LH lock to full RH lock. This resets the DSC so it knows about the steering wheel position.
  • Hopefully, everything back to normal.

Credit to Joe90 from fullfatrr
 
Battery Disconnection process....

DISCONNECTION:

  • Turn off the ignition, and remove the key. (Keep the key close by you though, as the alarm may go off and you need to disable it)
  • Ensure the alarm is disabled.
  • Wait at least 4 minutes for car systems to shut down such as the SatNav and Fuel Gauge
  • Yes, now you can lift the bonnet and disconnect the Earth terminal (brown lead)
  • Now wait 20 minutes for the SRS system to shut down. This is important because of what is to follow!
  • You have a positive lead running to a fitting on the bulkhead in front of the battery, this fitting is used for connecting jump leads. Undo the nut (13mm) at the back, and release the cable, placing out of the way.
  • Now unclip the cover for the battery terminal nut and undo the nut until loose.
  • Now unclip and take apart the multiplug which runs to the positive connector.
  • Now unclip the cover and undo and remove the nut for the battery disconnect system. Lift off the cable and set aside. (This is why item 5 is important, as this thing is designed to explode and break the battery connection in the event of a crash, so it works alongside the SRS)
  • OK, now you can wiggle and remove the positive connector from the battery terminal.
  • Battery disconnected!


RECONNECTION:

  • Refit the battery disconnect lead to the positive connector unit and tighten nut.
  • Refit the positive connector to the battery terminal and tighten nut.
  • Reconnect the “jump lead” cable to the bulkhead and tighten the nut.
  • Reconnect the multiplug.
  • Reconnect the negative terminal and tighten nut.
  • Start the engine, and allow systems to fire up and do their thing.
  • Finally, with the engine running, turn the steering wheel from full LH lock to full RH lock. This resets the DSC so it knows about the steering wheel position.
  • Hopefully, everything back to normal.

Credit to Joe90 from fullfatrr

So the 17 seconds for the P38 has grown to 24 minutes on the L332. Dat sure am progress boss.:D:D:D
 
Battery Disconnection process....

DISCONNECTION:

  • Now unclip the cover and undo and remove the nut for the battery disconnect system. Lift off the cable and set aside. (This is why item 5 is important, as this thing is designed to explode and break the battery connection in the event of a crash, so it works alongside the SRS)

I'm looking forward to the L322 threads when these things start failing.

G~
 
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