Disco 2 Adjusting the suspension height

Had to have some welding done on the chassis of my disco around the shock absorber mount and have also replaced the ride height sensor on that side of car, it broke when being taken off. Everything is back together but with the engine running the suspension is too high on one side. The driver’s side which has had no work measures 46cm between the centre of the wheel and the edge of the wheel arch but the passenger side is 51cm.

Do I need to take this for calibration or is there any way I can adjust this myself? I had wondered about disconnecting the battery and loosening the air pipe at the compressor to slowly let some air out until the height was 46cm. Would that work? If so does anyone know which pipe is the passenger side bag?

Thanks as always for any suggestions

Hi ,

Sounds like you need to get someone with a diagnostics unit on it, to recalibrate the unit, very easy to do, i have used a nanocom ( not sure if other diag units can do this ) to do it and only takes a few minutes.

height should be 473mm ctr wheel to inside edge of wheel arch +- 15mm.

Cheers

You can re-calibrate the ride height sensors, but you will need one of the diagnostic devices, Nanocom, Hawkeye, Lynx or Testbook.
I'm pretty sure you won't be able to do it by just letting air out of the suspension.

If you let air out , and then the compressor is still working it will only pump itself back up again.

Also if you get it recalibrated, you may get a small difference in the readings on the diagnostics from LH to RH, this is normal.

Cheers

On that note (recalibrating) can you recalibrate to a slightly higher point for normal driving?
Is it standard MO to disconnect the battery so as not to lose the current settings when doing any maintenance?
Do both sensors always have to be calibrated at the same time, I presume yes....?

Hi harold 4x4,

Yes you can, but there is already a fairly large tolerance +-15mm is specified . ( not sure if there is a window of max variance from std though)
Battery disconnect to avoid having to recalibrate ( hopefully , LOL) when you change the sensors.
On a nanocom they both get set when you write the settings to the ECU from the unit. Even if only one setting has changed.

Cheers

I'm prepared to be contradicted, but I believe the "proper" way to calibrate the height is to jack the body so that a pair of calibration blocks can be inserted in the suspension and then to write the standard calibration figure to the slabs ECU.
The DIY method is somewhat similar and involves jacking the body again but this time to the desired eight from under a central point eg the towbar and then levelling the body side to side. The readings on the diagnostics are then written into the ECU.
Or something like that.

You dont have to write anything into the ECU, you have to jack it up or use blocks as to be on the desired level and store those heights regardless of the figures cos figures are irrelevant, the sensor's inputs at that certain level is important to be stored as target heights cos there can be differencies between inputs from one sensor to the other at the same height but as long as the target heights are set to the inputs where the body is even the SLS will behave accordingly, the SLABS ECU works with voltage inputs not with figures, the figures are just for a rough referrence calculated by the tester, IMO completely useless.

Thank you for the replies, it looks like I need another trip to the garage.

Or have a search on here and see if anyone local has a diagnostic unit and is prepared to help you out.

Cheers