Air suspension problems

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Alec1943

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Hello Newbie to the site

I have a Range Rover p38 DHSE auto 2.5 2001

The car went for its mot last week ,and failed on rear drivers side air bag .

My mechanic changed the air bag .

Back to mot the station car was put on lift and jacked up to check the work

Then the problems seem to have started not sure if just coincidence

The first problem which seems to have fixed it self ,was after driving and parking up the front drivers side would drop
But if I open my door after stopping the front driver side would not drop ?,so I’m assuming this isn’t a leak

The second fault which is still there is the drivers side rear suspension will not lower at all in any mode ,this is the side the air bag was replaced
Any help appreciated

My first thought was may a height sensor? Can these be tested using an ohm meter ?

I have the easunlock software but not the knowledge to use it are there any guides online

Thanks alec
 
Last edited:
Alec1943 said:
Hello Newbie to the site

I have a Range Rover p38 DHSE auto 2.5 2001

The car went for its mot last week ,and failed on rear drivers side air bag .

My mechanic changed the air bag .

Back to mot the station car was put on lift and height extended to high on dash switch not sure why ?

Then the problems seem to have started not sure if just coincidence

The first problem which seems to have fixed it self ,was after driving and parking up the front drivers side would drop
But if I open my door after stopping the front driver side would not drop ?,so I’m assuming this isn’t a leak

The second fault which is still there is the drivers side rear suspension will not lower at all in any mode ,this is the side the air bag was replaced
Any help appreciated

My first thought was may a height sensor? Can these be tested using an ohm meter ?

I have the easunlock software but not the knowledge to use it are there any guides online

Thanks alec
Click to expand...
The EAS guides are on the RSW site or at least they were. Airbags should be replaced in axle pairs. it would have been put up to wade height to check the condition of the airbags where they fold under.
It's likely that one or more height sensors have picked up dirt on the resistance track as a result of moving further than normal. The can be checked for smooth operation with ohm meter but it's easier with the EAS software.
 
Datatek said:
The EAS guides are on the RSW site or at least they were. Airbags should be replaced in axle pairs. it would have been put up to wade height to check the condition of the airbags where they fold under.
It's likely that one or more height sensors have picked up dirt on the resistance track as a result of moving further than normal. The can be checked for smooth operation with ohm meter but it's easier with the EAS software.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for help

To test the height sensor do I connect a 5v feed to 1 and 3 pin then ohm meter to 2 and 3 pin the move arm on sensor ?

I will have a look on the rsw site
Much appreciated thank you
 
I’m currently going through the learning process of calibrating the air suspension

I’ve read on this forum that is good practice to be about 5 bits difference on each axle for the different height settings

So if for some reason your more than that do you adjust the height control sensor?

Thanks again Alec
 
If you're using an ohmmeter you don't need 5V. Simply measure the ohms value changes smoothly when moving the sensor arm, ideally through it's normal range.

To check the values, first get the car level & open tailgate to stop further adjustments. Then measure wheel centres to top of the arch and look for two things:

1) sensor bit counts are close to target values.
2) within 5 bits left to right.

It's rare to need to do any actual "adjustments" on the sensors themselves unless they are bent or mounted wrong.
 
I’m starting to understand better how to recalibrate the car using wooden dowels using the easunlock program

I’m stuck on the correct start up procedure

Do I turn car key to position two raise car to normal height level then connect laptop ,open software and click on the green initialise Button

Then to close program just press stop on software program remove car key and close program

Thank you kindly
 
Calibrating with wooden dowels is hard work, it's easier with a marked up measuring stick.
Connect the cable and lap top to the OBD port.
Turn ignition on position #2 then open the program and click on the green initialise button.
If all is OK, you should get a green "good Idle" then you can proceed with checking the heights.
It maybe that heights are close to correct at all levels if you are lucky. Start at wade height and work downwards
You may need to run the engine to allow the compressor to run.
When you have finished, stop the program, turn off the ignition and then disconnect.
 
For that last step, it's better to click disconnect in EAS Unlock (or Nanocom) first, and then exit the program.

Either way always stop communications before ignition off, or the ECU can get into a confused state !!
 
Thank you kindly I’m very grateful for your help!

If using the measuring stick method I assume I select the relevant height by pushing the switch on the on dash then measure from wheel arch to centre of wheel then make adjustment using the software

Thanks
 
Alec1943 said:
Thank you kindly I’m very grateful for your help!

If using the measuring stick method I assume I select the relevant height by pushing the switch on the on dash then measure from wheel arch to centre of wheel then make adjustment using the software

Thanks
Click to expand...
No need to touch the switch on the dash, all heights are selectable from the EAS diagnostics.
 
Thank you very much

So do I simply use the heights option on the software for each setting

So for example if I want to calibrate the high level which I believe is 510mm from wheel arch to centre of wheel

I adjust the physical height of the car height using the height option in the software to achieve 510mm all round

Then once I have the digits reading I then simplify transfer this into the calibration option and write it into the appropriate height option
 
Last edited:
I managed to have a go today with using the software
I have a fault RR signal incorrect

If the height difference across same axle is more than 20 dig and car is level I assume thats a faulty sensor

height settings stored in calibration are

High 137 all round
Med 105
Low 95
Acc 64
 
Alec1943 said:
I managed to have a go today with using the software
I have a fault RR signal incorrect

If the height difference across same axle is more than 20 dig and car is level I assume thats a faulty sensor

height settings stored in calibration are

High 137 all round
Med 105
Low 95
Acc 64
Click to expand...
RR signal incorrect could actually be the connector so check that for corrosion first.
What is 20dig?
The recorded settings are one thing, what do you get if you actually read the sensors?
 
Last edited:
436F55D7-3E4C-425E-A822-54A4C4DC855A.jpeg
 
Sorry I’m not explaining myself properly

The live data in the heights option for access was ;

FL 65 FR 80
RL 66 RR 72

I meant the number of digits

Thanks I will check tomorrow for corrosion
Thank you for the ride height chart
 
If the measurements are as the chart above the readings in the software are (mostly) irrelevant so long as it functions.
If the bits readings across an axle are too far apart you will get peculiar behaviour. Check the rear sensor arm, wiring and connector for corrosion, damage or distortion see what you find.
 
Had a chance to look under the car today well no wonder the RR sensor was causing problems the sensor was hanging off

I managed to change all sensor and recalibrate very pleased

I did have a mini meltdown when the car would not rise at the start of calibration then I realised I needed to turn the engine on

It’s all working fine now but I did struggle to clear the old codes and needed to use my friend diagnostic tool at his garage

So thanks again for all the help it’s been a good learning experience
 

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