ABS Sensor Change

Hey Guys

Has anyone got any good tips for changing the rear passanger ABS sensor on a D2, haven't had a chance to look at it yet but plugged it in to Faultmate on Monday night to find senor fooked. Ordered a new expecting a sensor with short lenght of cable, arrived yesterday with enough cable to wrap around car twice.

I don't have a lot of time this weekend to work on the car (stupidly bought tickets to watch Scotland play South Africa) so only have Sunday to sort this and don't want to be left without a car next week.

Is there anything that will make changing this easier?

Easiest is to remove brake pads and caliper for access.

If you have a long cable on the new sensor then it would appear you have been sent one for the front hubs. The cable on the front passes through the inner wing hence the length. The rear has only a relatively (2 foot?) length of cable. The connection is just behind the hub clipped to the body member.

If it is too long and for the front you could have problems trying to stow the excess with a potential for damage. Personally I would want to change it for the correct length.

Apart from that it is a pretty straightforward job.

As these sensors are expensive to buy, I would agree with previous. Get the correct one for your rear hub. Cutting and attempting to join the wiring is not to be recommended and trying to stow excess in a coil is not a good idea.
Changing is quite straightforward, after removing caliper and brake disc.
If the caliper and brake disc have not been touched for a while, you may need to soak bolts with WD40 or similar. (Use good fitting socket on caliper bolts. They will be v tight.)
Before removing existing sensor item with a 5mm hex Allan Key (it will be quite tight, so soak with WD40 or similar), spend time cleaning thoroughly all around the sensor area. Take great care not to get any debris whatsover in the hole where the sensor sits in the hub. Fit new sensor again taking care in regard to cleanliness. Torque hex screw to 18Nm (13lb/Ft).
Caliper fixiing bolts to be torqued to 95Nm (70Lb/Ft).
Job should take around 2 - 3hrs.
Good luck! Hope Scotland get the win!!!
Dave
Edinburgh

DaveMac said:

Hope Scotland get the win!!!
Dave
Edinburgh

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That'll make at least three of us!

I haven't had the bill yet so don't know how much it going to cost but told they weren't much.

Does anyone have a drawing of the sensor for the rear hubs, at work so don't have Microcat and couldn't find anything on Rave other than a picture of the ABS block.

Couple of things - First LR have supplied the correct sensor,they are now meant to be hard wired all the way back to the ecu with no joints.This was supposedly to rule out poor connections in the plugs - I've never believed that this was the issue.
Second,if you buy an aftermarket one from say Island 4x4 etc, it will come with the correct,(As in the same as the original on the car.) lead on it.No need to worry about quality as they are all made by Wabco.
When you fit the sensor remove its O ring and throw it away,they are a very tight fit and will bend the sensor bracket when you push it in.Use a small smear of silicone instead to seal it.
What was the original fault code ? The hub/sensor gives a very weak output and the earlier SLABS ecu's were VERY fussy about reading them.Often a new sensor does not effect a cure.

minidod said:

I haven't had the bill yet so don't know how much it going to cost but told they weren't much.

Does anyone have a drawing of the sensor for the rear hubs, at work so don't have Microcat and couldn't find anything on Rave other than a picture of the ABS block.

Click to expand...

There are two kinds of rear ABS sensors with the same part number

1. SSW500030 Long Type ending in Loose Wires i.e. Rear Abs Sensor Discovery 2 (SSW500030) From Brookwells Land Rover Parts

2. SSW500030 Short type with connector i.e ABS SENSOR-REAR ( SSW500030 ))

u have tu go under the car and see if u have a connector or not(usually without connector untill 2002MY-the 10P ones), if there is no connector the long one is good and going untill the SLABS ECU

it happened to me the other way around ...i ordered it and they sent me the short one but i dont have the connector