Aaargh! Hub bolt missing!

Hi all and merry Boxing Day.
I have just swapped the Boost alloys on my Td5 for some modular steels and Insa Turbo Dakar tyres. I'm not going to get bogged down by tyre pressures (30 front, 35 rear for me) or torque figures (140Nm does me) but I do have another question.
When I took the front, offside wheel off I noticed a hub bolt was missing. This was hidden when the alloy was fitted and couldn't have fallen out with the wheel on so I assume that someone knew it was missing when they last fitted the wheel and I also assume that this means the threads in the hub are stripped cos' why would you not fit the bolt?
I will try a new bolt but the question is, what are the implications of running my 90 with the bolt missing? It isn't vibrating and feels fine but I'm a bit concerned.

Any advice would be gratefully received.
Ps. If anyone could suggest the best tyre pressures or torque figures for 235/70/16 Insa Turbo Dakar tyres on modular steels on a Td5 90 on 02 plates it would be nice!!!

I take it you mean the drive flange bolts, if so, you may find that the head of the bolt is sheared off and the stud left in situ. Try poking a thin screwdriver or similar in where the bolt should be and see if you can feel anything in there.

If there is a stud in there, you'll be able to get it out by removing the flange and using a big pair of stillsons on it.

should be ok to run with 4 studs....wouldnt go off road in it though and take it easy

Thanks guys. It drives fine without vibration and Langers, it appears that you are spot-on. There appears to be a shaft in the hole. I guess some wan**r has sheared it and not been man enough to own up. I go off road with dogs and guns twice a month so I will get the 'easy-outs' out!

As said above, it will probably be fine with four out of five - the bolts are only under torsional load as opposed to weight bearing load, but it would still be advisable to fix it.

Luckily the bolts are only threaded into the hub assembly itself, so if you remove the drive flange it's easy to get some stillsons on the shank. You may find a bit of heat on the flange itself will help to break the rust that's inevitably the cause of it seizing in the first place!

Thanks langers. I will give it a go. I have some cobolt drill bits and an easy-out set so I should be ok. I'm just cheesed off that a recent purchase is revealing things that a gentlemanly e-bay transaction would not have hidden. I also have some moleys and stillsons too!

the bolts are under sheer load while driving ,they are 10.9,so easier to snap than std bolt and will easily if overtightened or hole full of crap so bolt bottoms out .they can often be knocked round with good dot punch to undo them

jamesmartin said:

the bolts are under sheer load while driving ,they are 10.9,so easier to snap than std bolt and will easily if overtightened or hole full of crap so bolt bottoms out .they can often be knocked round with good dot punch to undo them

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Yeah what I meant is that the wheel isn't going to fall off as a result of the bolts shearing, the drive flange is only under torsional load.

had 1 missing for quite a long time caused me no problems probally the bloke tightned it up to tight they do snap a bit easy, i know i did the same i torqued them after that.

Drookit Dug said:

Thanks langers. I will give it a go. I have some cobolt drill bits and an easy-out set so I should be ok. I'm just cheesed off that a recent purchase is revealing things that a gentlemanly e-bay transaction would not have hidden. I also have some moleys and stillsons too!

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You need to get some left hand drill bits. When they grab the bolt comes out

13 bits LEFT HAND Titanium Drill Bit Set EXTRACT Bolts on eBay!

Langers said:

Yeah what I meant is that the wheel isn't going to fall off as a result of the bolts shearing, the drive flange is only under torsional load.

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yes drive member is under torsional load

Thanks guys. Iv'e been soaking it in 'Plus Gas' and will try the easy-outs. If I do have to take the hub cover off is there anything I need to look out for like springs under compression or loose bearings to catch?

I ended up sacraficing the drive member to get mine off

Tried everything but it was stuck solid

Cut the bits of drive member off round the bolt shank and chapped them out with the chisel so's not to damage the seal face

Once the drive member was off the bolt came out with moleys

I will allow a bit of time then!
Thanks

top drive said:

I ended up sacraficing the drive member to get mine off

Tried everything but it was stuck solid

Cut the bits of drive member off round the bolt shank and chapped them out with the chisel so's not to damage the seal face

Once the drive member was off the bolt came out with moleys

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We had to use oxy-acet (gas axe) in order to get mine off...



It eventually broke loose with the aid of a 4lb lump hammer and cold chisel;



But did look good once it was all finished

No wonder the toe-rag didn't tell me about it!

Aye that was a good evening wasn't it langers didn't take too long when 4 of us were getting on with it!

Freediscoranger said:

Aye that was a good evening wasn't it langers didn't take too long when 4 of us were getting on with it!

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T'was very productive indeed. If I build a shed in the garden and put some camping rolls and a kettle in it, you guys could live in it and work on the 110 for me every day! Yeah?

Langers said:

T'was very productive indeed. If I build a shed in the garden and put some camping rolls and a kettle in it, you guys could live in it and work on the 110 for me every day! Yeah?

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Get fooked!!! Put a sofa and telly in and I'll think about it.....

Freediscoranger said:

Get fooked!!! Put a sofa and telly in and I'll think about it.....

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Alright I suppose I can stretch to that, but the TV will be playing a DVD of Mark Evans' "A 4x4 is Born" on constant loop, in order to keep your skills nice and sharp