Missing bolt

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

lightning

Well-Known Member
Posts
4,052
Location
High Peak
image.jpg
Noticed a slight chuffing noise today (to be honest l've heard it before but didn't investigate)

Though l would check the manifold and having taken off the turbo heat shield there's a nut missing from the manifold.

All the others are tight. l assume (as with all things Defender) that this is worse than just a missing nut.

The thread looks fine on the stud and it's no further out than the others, from what l can see.

l've got a bolt to put on, but suspect this is a more involved issue. l've got to drive to Wales and back tomorrow in the thing, is it safe to put a new bolt on and go?

Do l need a new exhaust manifold and studs?
 
I’d put a new nut on for the trip to wales, but it’ll probably need the manifold skimming so be prepared for that, it’s not expensive to get that done
 
I tried to fit a new bolt but the stud was loose and just fell out, it's sheared off flush with the cylinder head.

So l guess not the best idea to take it on the motorway for four hours in 30deg heat then?

Looks like l'll have to take the Jimny.
 
ls it safe to drive on the motorway for extended distance in this condition?

Not sure how long it's been like that, but long enough for the nut to unscrew itself and fall off !!
 
ls it safe to drive on the motorway for extended distance in this condition?

Not sure how long it's been like that, but long enough for the nut to unscrew itself and fall off !!
I would quite happily drive it long distance like that. It wouldn’t cause any harm you just might get a bit of sooty mark where it is blowing. And as you say it could have been like that for a long time.

In terms of fixing it is a remove the manifolds and investigate. Might need head removing to drill out but you might get lucky and be able to do it in situ. Then new gaskets new stud and refit.
 
you might get lucky and be able to do it in situ.

Weld a large washer to broken stud then weld a large nut to washer rather than the method of welding nut to broken stud...and drill a countersink into broken stud first to give good clean metal...
 
I'm inclined to agree with post #7 ... damage is already done - I.E. the broken stud and the chuffing ... the chuffing might get worse - make sure the cab is well ventilated just in case any CO is out to get you :eek: ..

If possible, I'd helicoil the replacement stud in too - will be stronger :)
 
I'm inclined to agree with post #7 ... damage is already done - I.E. the broken stud and the chuffing ... the chuffing might get worse - make sure the cab is well ventilated just in case any CO is out to get you :eek: ..

If possible, I'd helicoil the replacement stud in too - will be stronger :)
That is a good point about ventilation. But also just check there is no wiring in The firing line that might melt when it gets hot. There shouldn’t be in that part of The engine but best to double check so there is not further damage.
 
Last edited:
Well, Wales and back 285 miles with no issues and no noticeable chuffing or squealing from the manifold.

Booked in to get it sorted, and a new handbrake cable as that snapped today as well.

l could l guess do that myself but might as well let them do it while it's on the ramps.

Cruise control, best thing l fitted to it. Set it to 65mph and just sit back, so much easier on the motorway.
 
I've only just seen this so I'm a bit late to the conversation. I had a similar problem a few years ago when one of the bolts holding the EGR blanking plate onto my manifold snapped and allowed the plate to come loose. In a similar way it sounded a bit like it was chuffing. I think the loss of pressure from the exhaust manifold affects the engine management because the turbo isn't getting the full pressure to spin it. The engine bay got very sooty from the exhaust leak and I think it was running a bit rich because it was rather thirsty. Maybe the ECU wasn't seeing the kind of performance it was expecting so was increasing the fuelling to compensate. I fixed it as soon as I could, but I had to drive a few hundred miles home to do so. A small exhaust leak doesn't seem to do them any long term harm.
 
+1^
Drove my Disco TD5 back from south-west France with the manifold whistling. two, three or maybe four studs missing or missing their nuts, can't remember exactly as it happened a while back.
Bit of a bastud job getting the remnants of the studs out and putting new ones in. Cost £60 to get it reground flat. Had to do other work too but it's been OK ever since.;)
 
It won’t be that expensive to sort out lightening so don’t worry about it, very common issue on the td5 tbh, ps how hard was it to fit the cruise control and is it expensive?
 
The cruise control was a Nakatenanga one which cost £120

lt was easy to fit, three connections to the ECU and a wiring harness routed to the dash, two buttons in the centre console, or wherever you want them (Set and Resume)

Plus a live and earth from the dash. Works great
 
All this talk of cruise control sounds like people are getting old, want the confronts of a modern hatchback, and are forgetting what land rovering is all about! You will be wanting it to be waterproof next and all!
 
Back
Top