Freelander 1 5dr late model facelift, front door cards

Front door LHD window is not actuating. I haven't established if cable has failed or whether the assembly with the friction pad has slipped. Least ways it's at the bottom of the door cavity, attached to something... Light outside is failing and I slashed a finger trimming the adhesive to release the card, blood everywhere...

So I went to LR website and see that there are different "Shedder front door water" parts based on VIN, standard of ICE etc. I've attached the diagram and a picture of mine.

What's my question? Since some razor maniac (hope they severed an artery, unlike me...) has been at my interior following a glass breakage (judging by little glass fragments), are the non-Harmon-Kardon shedders just a piece of thick polythene bonded in place? Or do I replace mine?

I managed to salvage it without much additional damage but if I re-use, I will need to use some metal tape to repair it. And who the hell was the 3M salesman who convinced JLR to use so much sealant? His/her bonus that year must have been good. JFW there was a lot.

Some later models had the polystyrene water shedder (possibly HK speaker models), other models have a simple polythene sheet water shedder.
Both types can be repaired with suitable tape, something like duct tape is fine, and what I use to repair them.

+1 for duct tape on this sort of thing.

@Nodge68 cable has shredded... Its an aftermarket item with a 2020 production date on it, maker is Lift Tek, made in Italy. The rails have poor corrosion protection, are not smooth, edges sharp and worn the nylon guides and the bowden cables miserable cheap 5h1t etc. So I have ordered a complete one to replace. There was me thinking cables only.

But to your knowledge is it the case that LR bonded the polystyrene water shedder in with an adhesive sealant?? Would you also know what the nearest equivalent is? I have cleaned all the adhesive off the door and will clean the water shedder panel up. But taking your experience of replacing cables in 30 minutes has me thinking there isn't normally an adhesive sealant bead.

Thanks in advance, again

Kerlaan said:

@Nodge68 cable has shredded... Its an aftermarket item with a 2020 production date on it, maker is Lift Tek, made in Italy. The rails have poor corrosion protection, are not smooth, edges sharp and worn the nylon guides and the bowden cables miserable cheap 5h1t etc. So I have ordered a complete one to replace. There was me thinking cables only.

But to your knowledge is it the case that LR bonded the polystyrene water shedder in with an adhesive sealant?? Would you also know what the nearest equivalent is? I have cleaned all the adhesive off the door and will clean the water shedder panel up. But taking your experience of replacing cables in 30 minutes has me thinking there isn't normally an adhesive sealant bead.

Thanks in advance, again

Click to expand...

Nearest equivalent adhesive is "black tack" Amazon product

Kerlaan said:

But to your knowledge is it the case that LR bonded the polystyrene water shedder in with an adhesive sealant?? Would you also know what the nearest equivalent is?

Click to expand...

LR used a gun applied butyl rubber glue made by 3M IIRC.

However you can get a similar product in tape form, which you simply peel off a roll and stick on door frame, before pressing the shedder into place.

You can get it from amazon.
Put B00CQNC8ZY in the amazon search box, and you should see what you need.

@Nodge68 and @Jayridium - Thank you both! That is super helpful.

Nodge68 said:

Some later models had the polystyrene water shedder (possibly HK speaker models), other models have a simple polythene sheet water shedder.
Both types can be repaired with suitable tape, something like duct tape is fine, and what I use to repair them.

Click to expand...

@Nodge68 I just discovered by reason of search, search, search here on a posting from Rob Bell (re sumpguards of all things) that he had a problem with replacement door speakers fouling the window. Guess what? Mine has the same problem on close scrutiny. Anger doesn't mean violence but I could certainly wish harm on the miscreant who changed the speakers out.

Kerlaan said:

@Nodge68 I just discovered by reason of search, search, search here on a posting from Rob Bell (re sumpguards of all things) that he had a problem with replacement door speakers fouling the window. Guess what? Mine has the same problem on close scrutiny. Anger doesn't mean violence but I could certainly wish harm on the miscreant who changed the speakers out.

Click to expand...

you need MDF rings to pack them out, not that expensive on eBay.

Jayridium said:

you need MDF rings to pack them out, not that expensive on eBay.

Click to expand...

Or change the speakers to a set with smaller magnets.
JVC make a set (I can't remember the model number) which fit the Freelander door perfectly, and only cost a few £ more than MDF spacers.
I also fitted sound deadening material to my doors, eliminating the need for the factory shedder, and reducing door noise along with improving the speaker sound at the same time.