38KF96 Huddy’s Ex-Military 110

After living with my ex-military 110 n/a soft top for the last fet weeks I have commenced the inevitable maintinence and improvements/repairs.

First challenge was the badly leaking hood, which has caused all the seat base frames to corrode badly and kept leaving a pond in the back. I have now fitted a very kindly donated newer hood which I have trated with Fabsil. The Fabsil has proven very effective and the newer hood makes a massive improvement on looks!



The other task I have started this weekend is a service. Not knowing its service history I thought it best to check/change most things, FOI request is in however.

New air filter and glow plugs went in last weekend. Unfortunatly the clips on the air filter housing are buggared but I've bodged a solution. This weekend was engine oil and diff oil, both no problem except for spilling EP90 everywhere. Had a go at swivel housings but were full of grease, not EP90.

After some research I found this is normal but one housing did drain some sloppy grease and was a bit messy around the swivel so I'll drain this and replace with new.

My to-do list should keep me busy into next year;

1. Finish service (Fuel filter, brake check, clean out components with paraffin)
2. Start cleaning and painting the chassis, replace missing fixings everywhere. De-rust, fix and paint rear seats.
3. Fix instrument cluster and fan switch
4. Replace timing belt before December (possibly resolve rough cold starting issue)
5. Remove rust and paint doors internally (surface rust)
6. Paint bumper
7. Paint bodywork (probably next summer)

This list will probably grow but the lan'rover is in good working order at present so nothing is needed in a hurry.

Couple more pics for good measure;







You can see the old green/black colour scheme under where the hood sits...

Man, looks like you were busy this weekend, looking very tidy. I wish I had your energy. Keep the pictures coming, I want to do something similar with mine.

Cheers,
Doug

Look great, your footwells are better than mine!!

Ed

Cheers guys, on top of this I managed to clean the drive and wash the mrs's car.

I'm certain my bulkhead, footwells and tailgate were pretty new. Everything else is solid but rusty. Plastics are in much worse state than the steel.

bump

got the old tilt of Huddy84 today, all for nowt, good man. Going to turn it into a bikini top (i hope lol)

Top man andrew, thanks :-D

Ed

Few jobs completed on the 110 over the last couple of months;



Rear crossmember painted in red-oxide and black hammerite, and a light spray of waxoil. It's solid with dents from a trailer hitch so just trying to keep off the corrosion.



Handbrake was binding so gave it a clean out and left it an extra click slack, although still works very effectively.

Heater stopped working after a bit of off-roading. Opened it up and found this;




Fan worked once i took it out the water (although a bit squeaky), matrix was fine after a pressure wash so currently painting the metalwork and replacing the foam before putting it all back in.

Next mission is to find my hazard light fault. Indicators work fine, new switch and relay didn't fix it so must have a short somewhere.

looking great

looking good

Hi
Has anybody fitted a military steering guard before to A 110

Thanks

no, but i want to so would be interested in hearing how you do it

Hi Flat
Got one off e,ay good price all covered in wax oil that will do.
It looks pretty straight forward I will let you know.

Definetly let us know how you get on, a steering guard is on my list.

Where did you get your radiator muff from? Thats another thing on my list.

cool, thanks, with pics please

hopefully fit the steering guard this weekend keep you informed,& the rad muffs from craddocks Exmoor trim is the make.
blanchards on e bay do better ones

I noticed yesterday my A-frame ball joint is creaking and the gaitor is torn to bits so I'm thinking of replacing. Whilst at it I thought i should replace the two bushes as-well and give it a lick of paint.

Any reccomendations on performance or standard polybushes? Are polybushes worth it?

I've read thru the Busters guide http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/frame-balljoint-renewal-110342.html so looks like I've got some fun ahead trying to shift stubborn bolts and old ball joint.

Everything I have read says use genuine bushes, poly are easier to fit apparently but give a harsher ride (even soft ones)

pat murphy said:

Hi
Has anybody fitted a military steering guard before to A 110

Thanks

Click to expand...

Oh by the way I have now done this, well worked it out how to fit it and jate rings. I just need to implement it. Will involve grinding the jate rings slightly, if you can stand to lose those then it's a doddle to fit.

I ordered poly in the end. If I have to do any other suspension bits I'll stick with genuine. At least with the A frame its only lateral movement its resisting.

When you fit it I'm interested to see what the military steering guard looks like. Not seen one before.

Huddy84 said:

I ordered poly in the end. If I have to do any other suspension bits I'll stick with genuine. At least with the A frame its only lateral movement its resisting.

When you fit it I'm interested to see what the military steering guard looks like. Not seen one before.

Click to expand...

This is on eBay; I was thinking of it for my MoD 110
Land Rover Defender military steering guard NRC7009 NOS Genuine

That looks nice and basic. I'm not fond of the look of the sheet metal ones, bit too shiny.