300Tdi diesal filter

How easy is it to clean/change a fuel filter on a 300Tdi engine?

Does anybody have an eejits guide handy?





Not that I'm an eejit of course, err, it's for a mate, honest guv.....

Kev627 said:

How easy is it to clean/change a fuel filter on a 300Tdi engine?

Does anybody have an eejits guide handy?





Not that I'm an eejit of course, err, it's for a mate, honest guv.....

Click to expand...

First of all, make sure you have some spare clean diesel to hand.

Ok, are you ready? Unscrew old filter, fill new filter with clean diesel, screw on new filter, start engine, select first gear, drive off into the sunset basking in the glory of mechanical perfection.

Dont you have to bleed it?

iannotts said:

Dont you have to bleed it?

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I don't think so, I certainly didn't have to, but I think the big difference is if you put them in dry, there's too much air. If you fill up the filter with diesel, it will and does self-bleed and Bob is your uncle.

I normaly do mine dry and bleed it

First time bled it with the engine running made a bit of a mess

i've recently done mine,

i fitted a new lift pump and changed the fuel filter

i did it the way "the big lad" said as spoken to him a number of times
previously and mine started better than it had previosly

it was a job i was putting off as i'm new to diesels, but was supprised how easy it was.

listen to these guys and you can't go too far wrong

cheers mark

markw said:

i've recently done mine,

i fitted a new lift pump and changed the fuel filter

i did it the way "the big lad" said as spoken to him a number of times
previously and mine started better than it had previosly

it was a job i was putting off as i'm new to diesels, but was supprised how easy it was.

listen to these guys and you can't go too far wrong

cheers mark

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Thanks for that Mark. I knew nothing about Discos 2-3yrs ago, but bit by bit my confidence and experience is growing and now I'm rarring to have a go at just about anything on my two girls.

It's so great when you do something, like I've just done their axles, gear & tranny boxes with new oil, and they both run really nice, quiet and efficiently. Very rewarding.

I love it

as you know when the floor goes back in the rear shocks are next.

but after that is the engine oil and filter and both axles.

then the auto box oil, but will be contacting you re transfer box.

this week i've been putting the supports back in for the floor, giving the new supports and top of the chassis good couple of coats of hammerright.
also giving the under side of the floor a good couple of coats of hammerright.

going to give the underside a good coating too.

all these jobs were due to you giving me the confidence to have ago.
even though i have limited movenent i found them to be very rewarding.

will keep in touch

cheers mark

markw said:

as you know when the floor goes back in the rear shocks are next.

but after that is the engine oil and filter and both axles.

then the auto box oil, but will be contacting you re transfer box.

this week i've been putting the supports back in for the floor, giving the new supports and top of the chassis good couple of coats of hammerright.
also giving the under side of the floor a good couple of coats of hammerright.

going to give the underside a good coating too.

all these jobs were due to you giving me the confidence to have ago.
even though i have limited movenent i found them to be very rewarding.

will keep in touch

cheers mark

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I'm so pleased for you Mark, you must be feeling great right now. Re the rust proofing, if it doesn't move Hammerite it !!

Also If I may, before you put the floor back in, check/clean your sedimentor and check all the brake pipes in that area, if in doubt replace.

I didn't and now I'm going to have to replace the brake pipes - oh bugger !!

Re the various oil changes, I found this, see pic and it made the whole job a piece of cake - the difference between night and day. And the cost?? 1.50€ !!!!

hi dave,

feeling great mentally, but very sore phyically but all worth it.....
as you said job satisfaction is great!

the plan ways to do as you said paint every thing thats there. allready used 1.5 ltrs just on top chassis, supports, bottom boot floor etc.

planning to get more today,

with reference to your new toy i've got one of those, do you drain the axles with that or pull the drain plug?

as i was hoping to do the rear axle whilst the floors out.

once the rear end is back together and fully painted planning to then check sills etc and work my way around the car

as mot getting closer....... about 4 weeks and counting......

mark

markw said:

hi dave,

feeling great mentally, but very sore phyically but all worth it.....
as you said job satisfaction is great!

the plan ways to do as you said paint every thing thats there. allready used 1.5 ltrs just on top chassis, supports, bottom boot floor etc.

planning to get more today,

with reference to your new toy i've got one of those, do you drain the axles with that or pull the drain plug?

as i was hoping to do the rear axle whilst the floors out.

once the rear end is back together and fully painted planning to then check sills etc and work my way around the car

as mot getting closer....... about 4 weeks and counting......

mark

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Hi Mark, re the oil changes on the axles and gearbox & transfer box. Before I stated emptying any of them, I made sure that first the fill/level plug would undo and then the drain plug. I did it this way because I heard that there are a lot of Gorillas working in LR garages who don't know that these are TAPER threads, so they do them up super-tight. I found mine were a bit too tight to manage with a 1/2 inch ratchet driver so I loosed them off with a 1/2 inch breaker bar and that did the trick fine - a little bit more leverage goes an awfully long way.

Re my special 'tool', I emptied each component using the relevant drain plug leaving it a LONG time to get out as much as poss. The stuff that came out of the axles was literally like silt - not oil at all, my fault for leaving it so long . I then used "the special one" to refill, worked like a dream

It's like with a lots of things in life, if you've never done it before, there is a lack of confidence. Once I'd done one Disco, I immediately did the other.

hi dave,

thanks for the tip, its little things like this that help with what to expect and
give people like me the confidence to attempt in the first place.

is it best to take her for a little run fist to warn & loosen the muck ready to drain the axles?

does the transfer box have a drain plug too?
and is this the same fitting as the rear axles?
whats access like?

hoping to do engine oil & filter change the weekend
and both axles too......

and possibly transfer box depending how brave i get......
so any tips on location and what to do/expect would be great.

that only leaves the auto box oil & front swivels and grease drive shafts

never thought i would be able to do these jobs due to my restricted movement but so far you've helped me no end, and given me the confidence to have a go.

i hope all the others like myself are reading these and having a go themselves.

thanks mark

markw said:

hi dave,

thanks for the tip, its little things like this that help with what to expect and
give people like me the confidence to attempt in the first place.

is it best to take her for a little run fist to warn & loosen the muck ready to drain the axles?

does the transfer box have a drain plug too?
and is this the same fitting as the rear axles?
whats access like?

hoping to do engine oil & filter change the weekend
and both axles too......

and possibly transfer box depending how brave i get......
so any tips on location and what to do/expect would be great.

that only leaves the auto box oil & front swivels and grease drive shafts

never thought i would be able to do these jobs due to my restricted movement but so far you've helped me no end, and given me the confidence to have a go.

i hope all the others like myself are reading these and having a go themselves.

thanks mark

Click to expand...

Hi Mark, by all means go for a drive to warm things up a bit so the oil will run out easier. Also make sure, as best as you are able, that when you start this procedure, the vehicle is level, front to back and side to side.

Re the transfer box, it has the same 1/2 inch drive plug fitting, the drain plug is on the bottom in plain view, the fill/level plug is higher up and from memory at the back of the unit and is the same 1/2 inch drive.

Access to the drain plug is no problem, access to the fill plug is ok, just a little bit more fiddly. Doing the transfer box IS NOT AT ALL DIFFICULT

When you get to the auto box, there are a few things to bear in mind:

1. Stated capacity is 9ltrs but only 4-5 ltrs will come out when you open the drain plug. Incidently this is, on mine at least, a small allen key fitting.

2. Once drained (leave for a good amount of time, go have a coffee) refit drain plain. MEASURE ACCURATELY how much oil came out and then refill via the dipstick pipe, with EXACTLY the same amount, then go through level test procedure, then go for a drive, then allow to cool, then test level again.

It's dead easy really, it's just getting the level right is quite important.

Just remembered, this procedure is what I did because I decided to change the oil ONLY, a lot of people would say that you should change the oil screen (filter) at the same time, but that's a bit bigger job and my concern was getting fresh oil in.

3. About 3-500 miles later, do it all again !!!! The idea is that the oil that was trapped in the torque Converter and didn't come out the first time will/may have been replaced by the new oil, so that if you do the oil change again, you will have changed 70-80% of the oil. Not very satisfactory I know, but unless you take the gearbox out and strip it, it's not (as far as I'm aware) possible to get all the oil out, at all - never mind at one go!!

Keep at it mate, you're doing just fine,

Cheers
Dave

thanks dave,

bought engine oil, and some gear oil today
but need to get more tomorrow as car accessory shop didn't have enough stock
still need more gear oil, so will get enough for the transfer box too whilst i'm at it.

i was going to book it in for a auto box oil change before reading various things on here. but now i think i will do the same as you and drain it, put fresh in and do the same again 500 miles later.
i was told it was £75 + vat for just an oil change, which will cost about £30 for the oil.

with my new found confidence i would like to give it a go first, whilst doing all the other work ready for the mot.
at least then when she goes in i can say i've done all what i can myself....

will let you know how i get on

thanks mark

markw said:

thanks dave,

bought engine oil, and some gear oil today
but need to get more tomorrow as car accessory shop didn't have enough stock
still need more gear oil, so will get enough for the transfer box too whilst i'm at it.

i was going to book it in for a auto box oil change before reading various things on here. but now i think i will do the same as you and drain it, put fresh in and do the same again 500 miles later.
i was told it was £75 + vat for just an oil change, which will cost about £30 for the oil.

with my new found confidence i would like to give it a go first, whilst doing all the other work ready for the mot.
at least then when she goes in i can say i've done all what i can myself....

will let you know how i get on

thanks mark

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No probs Mark, it's a pleasure. The biggest difference I found was after doing the axles, the car ran much quieter.

Re the autobox quote of £75 + vat - I'm assuming that for this price they will do just one drain down? So that only means about 5 ltrs of Dexron 3. Don't know how much it is in England but over here Carrefour do it for 19.60€, so that's about £19.60 isn't it

hi dave,

i don't know when my axles were last done, nothing in its history.

wouldnt say its noisy, but only had her 6 months so don't really know any different. will soon tell, i'm expecting it to be full of muck if the engine oil any thing to go off!

oil filter looks as black as the oil!

have you attempted the front swivel oil yet?

as you've sais once you start you get the bug!

mark

markw said:

hi dave,

i don't know when my axles were last done, nothing in its history.

wouldnt say its noisy, but only had her 6 months so don't really know any different. will soon tell, i'm expecting it to be full of muck if the engine oil any thing to go off!

oil filter looks as black as the oil!

have you attempted the front swivel oil yet?

as you've sais once you start you get the bug!

mark

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Hi Mark, re the axles, if it is black muck then when you put in new clean stuff you almost certainly will notice the difference;

Re the swivels, yes I have done these when I replaced the swivel and wheel bearings. Since 1998 Land Rover stopped using EP 90 oil in the swivels in favour of "one shot grease", basically a runny grey grease which comes in a plastic container the total of which goes in one swivel, hence one shot. It has been suggested the move from oil to grease was prompted by the fact that LR couldn't make a seal good enough to hold the oil in !!!!

So, when you come to do the swivels and you open the drain plug, don't be surprised if nothing much runs out - it's meant to be 'fit & forget'.

On the subject of all these oily bits, once you get the hang of doing them, if you can buy the right oil in bulk it makes a lot of sense to do the changes more often.

For example, the axle oil should be (according to LR) changed every 2 yrs or 24 000mls. I find it takes half an hour to do both axles - it's that quick !! If you can get the price of oil down to a reasonable figure, do it more often - you'll want to when you hear how much quieter the car runs.

Cheers
Dave