Freelander 2 (LR2) 2007 freelander 2 boost control problem HELPPP

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nick the gin

Member
Posts
91
Location
tunbridge wells
hi got a 2.2 2007 fl2 keeps going into limp home mode fault codes are
p2563-72 turbocharger boost control position sensor A-circuit range / performance PERMANANT
p2562-77 same words as above but TEMPORARY
p2562-63 same as above but TEMPORARY

now ive put a new turbo and acuator and all new hp pipes and intercooler and still the same
any of you guys had this problem ???
where is the boost control position sensor ??
also pluged into it while driving and on tick over turbo is boosting at 15psi and max boost flat out is 36 psi
ive also got a 2014 car the same and its the same boost rate on that car too and thats working fine
anyone got any further ideas ?? tia
 
where is the boost control position sensor ??
I believe the boost control position sensor is part of the boost control servo (electronic actuator).
It'll form part of the feedback signal the ECM uses to determine how far turbo vanes have moved.
It's unlikely that 2 actuators are suffering the same issue, so this would suggest a wiring or connector fault.
also pluged into it while driving and on tick over turbo is boosting at 15psi and max boost flat out is 36 psi
A MAP of ~ 14.7 PSI would be normal for an engine off boost.
A MAP of 36 PSI gives a boost pressure of around 21 PSI, which is about right.
 
I believe the boost control position sensor is part of the boost control servo (electronic actuator).
It'll form part of the feedback signal the ECM uses to determine how far turbo vanes have moved.
It's unlikely that 2 actuators are suffering the same issue, so this would suggest a wiring or connector fault.

A MAP of ~ 14.7 PSI would be normal for an engine off boost.
A MAP of 36 PSI gives a boost pressure of around 21 PSI, which is about right.
hi mate do i have to program the new actuator to the car ????
 
question if i put two copper washers on the injectors as i cant get the old ones out , will that cause it to smoke black smoke ????
Don't use 2 washers, as the injector nozzle is close to the top of the chamber, so 2 washers will pull the injector into the drilling, which could interfere with spray pattern, which could give smoke.
If you can't get the old washers out, then you'll have to reuse the originals, and hope they don't leak.
 
M8 threaded bar, down the middle, a little twist so it locks and pull 'smartly' up and out ...
Or a long gun tap of suitable size shoud do the same job.

The annoying thing with this style of injector washer, is the serrated inner bore.
Screenshot_20211228-101451_Samsung Internet.jpg

However these serrations will allow the inner bore to be gripped with a suitable sized screwdriver, enabling the washer to be rotated, which will help free it off.
 
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