2002 disco TD5 auto: auto problem? oil?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
"Je pense que" it'll be good to plug the car into a tester. As I've seen in the RAVE there is a big deal of ECU controll in there. In case if you don't have the manual I put you a "flavour" of it , It is PDF and I can't crack it so might be peculiar but it's enough to make an impression.

Shift control
To provide the different driving characteristics for each mode of operation, the EAT ECU incorporates different shift
maps of throttle position/engine speed. Base shift points are derived from the appropriate shift map. When a shift is
required, the EAT ECU sends a request to the ECM for a reduction in engine torque, in order to produce a smoother
shift. The percentage of torque reduction requested varies according to the operating conditions at the time of the
request. When the EAT ECU receives confirmation of the torque reduction from the ECM, it then signals the shift
solenoid valves in the gearbox to produce the shift. To further improve shift quality, the EAT ECU also signals the
pressure regulating solenoid valve to modulate the hydraulic pressure and so control the rate of engagement and
disengagement of the brake clutches.
With time, the components in a gearbox wear and the duration of the gear shifts tends to increase, which has an
adverse effect on the brake clutches. To counteract this, the EAT ECU applies a pressure adaptation to each shift.
To calculate the adaptations, the EAT ECU monitors the pressure modulation used, and time taken, for each shift. If
a subsequent shift of the same type, in terms of throttle position and engine speed, has a longer duration, the EAT
ECU stores an adaptation for that type of shift in a volatile memory. The adaptation is then included in future pressure
calculations for that type of shift, to restore shift duration to the nominal.


Sorry there are to small limits for attachments, here is a copy/paste you'll have an ideea how relevant could be a test. There are one under another in order

Fault effects and warning indications
Fault code,
OBD II
(TestBook)
Fault description Effect Warning lamp
illumination
MIL Sport/
Manual
P0705
(14, 23)
* Gear position switch,
incorrect outputs
Maintains current gear in low range, limp home
mode in high range. Shift pressure to maximum,
harsh gear shifts/engagement.
On On
P0721
(21)
* Downshift safety
monitor prevented
downshift which would
have caused engine
overspeed
Maintains current gear in low range, limp home
mode in high range. Shift pressure to maximum,
harsh gear shifts/engagement.
On On
P0722
(22)
* Torque converter
slipping
Maintains current gear in low range, limp home
mode in high range. Shift pressure to maximum,
harsh gear shifts/engagement.
On On
P0731
(29)
* Ratio monitoring,
implausible 1st gear ratio
No apparent effect On On
P0732
(30)
* Ratio monitoring,
implausible 2nd gear
ratio
No apparent effect On Off
P0733
(31)
* Ratio monitoring,
implausible 3rd gear
ratio
No apparent effect On Off
P0734
(32)
* Ratio monitoring,
implausible 4th gear ratio
No apparent effect On Off
P0741
(5)
* Torque converter lock-
up clutch fault
May affect driveability. On Off
P0743
(7, 25)
* Torque converter lock-
up solenoid (MV 3), open
or short circuit
Limp home mode in low and high ranges. Shift
pressure to maximum, harsh gear shifts/
engagement.
On On
P0748
(10, 28)
* Pressure regulating
solenoid (MV 4), open or
short circuit
Limp home mode in low and high ranges. Shift
pressure to maximum, harsh gear shifts/
engagement.
On On
P0753
(8, 26)
* Shift solenoid (MV 1),
open or short circuit
Limp home mode in low and high ranges. Shift
pressure to maximum, harsh gear shifts/
engagement.
On On
P0758
(9, 27)
* Shift solenoid (MV 2),
open or short circuit
Limp home mode in low and high ranges. Shift
pressure to maximum, harsh gear shifts/
engagement.
On On
P1562
(24)
* Battery supply below
9V while engine running
Maintains current gear in low range, limp home
mode in range. Shift pressure to maximum, harsh
gear shifts/engagement.
Off On
P1601
(4)
* ECU, EEPROM
checksum
Limp home mode in low and high ranges. Shift
pressure to maximum, harsh gear shifts/
engagement.
On On
P1606
(3)
* EEPROM No apparent effect On† Off
P1606
(6)
* Watchdog No apparent effect On On
P1612
(2)
* Solenoid valves power
supply relay, sticking
closed or open circuit
Limp home mode in low and high ranges. Shift
pressure to maximum, harsh gear shifts/
engagement.
On On
P1613
(1)
* Solenoid valves power
supply relay, sticking
open or short circuit
Limp home mode in low and high ranges. Shift
pressure to maximum, harsh gear shifts/
engagement.
On On
P1705
(39)
Transmission high/low
range, implausible input
No apparent effect On Off
P1810
(12, 13)
Sport/Manual warning
lamp circuit fault
Lamp fails bulb check or is permanently
illuminated. No effect on gearbox operation.
On Off
P1841
(16)
* CAN bus fault Maintains current gear in low range, limp home
mode in high range. Shift pressure to maximum,
harsh gear shifts/engagement.
On On
P1842
(15)
* CAN level monitoring Maintains current gear in low range, limp home
mode in range. Shift pressure to maximum, harsh
gear shifts/engagement.
On On
P1843
(17)
* CAN time-out
monitoring
Maintains current gear in low range, limp home
mode in high range. Shift pressure to maximum,
harsh gear shifts/engagement.
On On
P1884
(11)
* CAN message: Engine
friction invalid
No apparent effect. On Off
P1884
(18)
* CAN message: Throttle
position invalid
Substitute throttle angle of 50% adopted. No
kickdown. Operates in economy modes only.
On On
P1884
(19)
CAN message: Engine
temperature invalid
Substitute engine temperature derived from other
inputs. No apparent effect.
On Off
P1884
(20)
CAN message: Road
speed invalid
No apparent effect On Off
P1884
(33, 34)
* CAN message: Engine
torque invalid
Substitute engine torque of derived from other
inputs. May affect shift quality.
On Off
P1884
(35)
* CAN message: Engine
speed invalid
Maintains current gear in low range, limp home
mode in high range. Shift pressure to maximum,
harsh gear shifts/engagement.
On On
P1884
(37)
CAN message: Engine
air intake temperature
invalid
No apparent effect. On Off
P1844
(38)
Altitude shift control
invalid
No reduced torque compensation, possible
reduction in performance/ driveability at altitude
or high ambient temperatures.
On Off
* = Emissions (OBD II) relevant
†On = MIL illuminates immediately (in all other faults, MIL On = illuminates in the 2nd consecutive drive cycle if fault still
present)

A bientot

 
I think Sierrafery is being a bit alarmist - these boxes are pretty reliable, and as far as the electronics go - either they work or they don't, and usually they do. I haven't read much about any problems on this forum, apart from the XYZ switch (do a search). It sounds from what you say that your box is working properly - change the oil and worry about other things! My own feeling is that once cars get above 10 years old they start to need a bit of tlc - which is why I've changed mine, as I don't do the servicing myself and most of my trips are long-distance nowadays. I say again - read the owner's manual carefully to get the best out of the car.
 
Yes the box is sophisticated, and yes there are lots of possible faults which can be shown by lights, fault codes etc. But I don't think that's a reason to worry.

Re. the original post:
Are there any fault lights on? No
Any odd behaviour? The OP thought so, but I think will have been reassured by the fact that his Disco seems to be behaving 'normally' - and it's probably a matter of getting used to idiosyncrasies.

As for towing a car trailer - I can't think of a better tow vehicle. I have used mine often for towing a laden double horse box (even carrying a small tractor inside). No problems at all even between central France and UK (600km trips).

Recently at end of 500km trip to Provence Alps, I had the gearbox overheat warning light come on. Short stop and it went off. I had been climbing long mountain pass, towing horse box. In these circumstances it's hard to get the speed right so there is minimum heat generation from the torque converter. Ideal is locked up in third or fourth. Hence need to read and understand the manual, which does give advice about low speed towing and use of low range, for example.

I'm about to change gearbox oil, in case this was factor in recent overheat, and RAVE says I will need 9.7 litres to fill from dry (thebiglad mentioned at least 5 litres - does it not all drain perhaps?)
 
simonvfr said:
Yes the box is sophisticated, and yes there are lots of possible faults which can be shown by lights, fault codes etc. But I don't think that's a reason to worry.

Re. the original post:
Are there any fault lights on? No
Any odd behaviour? The OP thought so, but I think will have been reassured by the fact that his Disco seems to be behaving 'normally' - and it's probably a matter of getting used to idiosyncrasies.

As for towing a car trailer - I can't think of a better tow vehicle. I have used mine often for towing a laden double horse box (even carrying a small tractor inside). No problems at all even between central France and UK (600km trips).

Recently at end of 500km trip to Provence Alps, I had the gearbox overheat warning light come on. Short stop and it went off. I had been climbing long mountain pass, towing horse box. In these circumstances it's hard to get the speed right so there is minimum heat generation from the torque converter. Ideal is locked up in third or fourth. Hence need to read and understand the manual, which does give advice about low speed towing and use of low range, for example.

I'm about to change gearbox oil, in case this was factor in recent overheat, and RAVE says I will need 9.7 litres to fill from dry (thebiglad mentioned at least 5 litres - does it not all drain perhaps?)
Click to expand...

You are correct. I just want to be sure there is nothing wrong with my disco.
I had read that the full 9 litres are not needed as part is in the transferbox, and can't easily be drained. (don't know if it is possible to do)
Would synthatic oil be better for coping with the heat?

PS: I've read the manual on "starting in low gear" etc.
 
stormy_be said:
small video of my disco up to 100kmh.
It is not full throttle at all, but 3000 revs, which should give a good idea.
Are the revs ok? Is the acceleration "normal"?
http://users.skynet.be/fb085082/revs.avi
Click to expand...

Looks absolutely normal to me. The rev drop when it locks into fourth is exactly as I described on mine.

I've also made a picture or 2 from where the EGR is.
There is some "oil-residue" on the hoses to the intercooler.
Is this a sign?
http://users.skynet.be/fb085082/foto1.JPG
http://users.skynet.be/fb085082/foto2.JPG
Click to expand...
Oil residue - looks much cleaner overall than mine, which has always had oil everywhere. :)
 
When i bought my td5 auto i thaught the box was not right so i put into midland gearbox for a test, they road tested it and plugged it into computer and that is the way they drive. I think you only notice the revs as they are not the quietest of engines once you get used to it its ok mine come out off midland with a report saying perfect and its done 115000
 
GUVNER, where abouts are midland gearbox? might be worth them checking mine as mine is defo doing something odd, as stated before it seems to judder / push when braking and whenm i pull away sometimes nothing happens but rev increase and then it suddenly tuggs, as if it had a clutch suddenly biting.
 
simonvfr said:
Yes the box is sophisticated, and yes there are lots of possible faults which can be shown by lights, fault codes etc. But I don't think that's a reason to worry.

I'm about to change gearbox oil, in case this was factor in recent overheat, and RAVE says I will need 9.7 litres to fill from dry (thebiglad mentioned at least 5 litres - does it not all drain perhaps?)
Click to expand...

Hi Simon, Dave here. Re doing an oilchange on the autobox, the whole assembly holds 9ltrs but you will never get the oil out of the Torque Converter using diy methods.

When you drain the autobox sump you will get out approx 4.5ltrs if done when the unit is warm.

The diy plan is to refill with the same amount of fluid, check the level using the correct approach. The after about 500mls (enough to allow full mixing of the old and new oils) do the job again. It's not ideal of course but there are few alternatives for the diy-er.

The professional autobox servicing people have a pumping setup where they connect to the oil cooler pipes and empty the old stuff out by pumping new stuff in, so they do change all the old oil at one go.

Regarding the autobox filter and changing it, the jury seems to be out on this as there are suggestions that debris might be disturbed in the process and get somewhere it shouldn't???
 
thebiglad said:
When you drain the autobox sump you will get out approx 4.5ltrs if done when the unit is warm.

The diy plan is to refill with the same amount of fluid, check the level using the correct approach. The after about 500mls (enough to allow full mixing of the old and new oils) do the job again. It's not ideal of course but there are few alternatives for the diy-er.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave. Sounds like it would be worth me draining/replacing the first 4.5 litres and deciding on the strength of the appearance of the first drained lot whether to go straight on to do again after a few hundred km.
 
BIG MATT said:
GUVNER, where abouts are midland gearbox? might be worth them checking mine as mine is defo doing something odd, as stated before it seems to judder / push when braking and whenm i pull away sometimes nothing happens but rev increase and then it suddenly tuggs, as if it had a clutch suddenly biting.
Click to expand...
BM, have you checked the fluid level? This is a classic symptom of low fluid.
 
OK mate they are in kettering northants it cost £65 but worth it for peace off mind they will do oil change i think its £120 sounds steep but its not just a case of draining oil and putting it in because the torque holds a lot so realy you have to do it twice
 
Cheers chaps i will book it in at a local landie independant and ask him to fully change the oil, may even get the sump done as well.

Ned it to pull a 1800kg caravan to devon next week so she better perform.

I will keep ya all posted on results
 
My Tee Dee pulls away smooth on gentle acceleration and if you floor it it takes off like a jet.
Using BP Ultimate at the mo drives exceptionally smooth,got lots more oommpphh!! is quieter on start ups from cold and when warmed up on a long run the engine cant be heard.
 
teedeefyveluvver said:
My Tee Dee pulls away smooth on gentle acceleration and if you floor it it takes off like a jet.
Using BP Ultimate at the mo drives exceptionally smooth,got lots more oommpphh!! is quieter on start ups from cold and when warmed up on a long run the engine cant be heard.
Click to expand...

And what modifications have you done?

Koen
 
teedeefyveluvver said:
My Tee Dee pulls away smooth on gentle acceleration and if you floor it it takes off like a jet.
Using BP Ultimate at the mo drives exceptionally smooth,got lots more oommpphh!! is quieter on start ups from cold and when warmed up on a long run the engine cant be heard.
Click to expand...
I found BP Ultimate made a big difference. You can probably get similar by adding 2-stroke oil or Miller's to the mix - key is to up the Cetane rating.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Auto gearbox woes
Replies
3
Views
273
sierrafery
sierrafery
H
Td5 wont rev
Replies
1
Views
386
Anaconda
A
N
Disco td5 auto box cooling pipes
Replies
12
Views
1K
Iwandavies351
Iwandavies351
Henryt21
2000 discovery 2 auto
Replies
9
Views
1K
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
J
Options for adding CDL - 2003 D2 V8 Auto
Replies
4
Views
387
sierrafery
sierrafery
Back
Top