10w 40 or TUO .Again !

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rollin danny

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A company on ebay called Valzol sell 25ltr 10 40 api ch-4 for £53 and they sell tractor universal oil 15 / 30 25ltr api CE for about £48 so not much in price ,but which is best for a 300 tdi ?
 
Unanimous decision so far then!

I vote TUO, seems to be the **** but only a few kids know about it. Tbh it's a land rover put put put that rarely sees over 2000rpm, it'll be happy with most lubes as long as it's thick enough...
 
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Well I`ll start an argument then....(wouldn`t be Landyzone otherwise would it?). 10/30 is surely gonna be too thin when warm for a turbo engine. OK for a normally aspirated diesel , but not a turbo engine. The turbo will be spinning round over 10,000 rm with the internals red hot in even a slow "put-put" Landy! Save a few quid on a thinner oil and risk a total engine failure if the turbo spits bits of metal down the throat of your engine? Not me ta.
PS. DiscoLew has it right: 10w/40 will get round your engine quicker for cold starts, and stay thicker longer when warm, for better protection... don`t even think about saving, how much? 50p a litre? False economy in the long run.
 
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Mate ,have you seen many modern tractors? And the prices they command ? Take into account that these very expensive high performance vehicles run at high revs for maybe 12 to 18 hours at a time.......do you honestly think that the owner/operators would risk anything damaging their investment ? Things have moved on from the little grey fergy . Admittedly not on my old dads bit of the land,tho !

If you look at the label on TUO you will find it is rated and approved by cummins,volvo,scania,renualt,perkins,DAF etc etc etc
 
Yes, I fully accept that modern tractors are high tech, powerful and expensive, and only a fool would put cheapo oil in `em, but the figures say: 10/40 starts out thinner and ends up thicker than 15/30. Surely a better deal for a coupla bob extra? And by your own argument agricultural vehicles are not often subject to cold starts as they tend to be used all day (or not at all), so more reason to use a wider range multi-grade?
PS I mean wider range oil better in road going vehicles.
 
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tractors etc for years have been up to if not ahead in technology,in engine designe ,traction control was fitted in the 80s and turbos as std way before
 
Yes, I fully accept that modern tractors are high tech, powerful and expensive, and only a fool would put cheapo oil in `em, but the figures say: 10/40 starts out thinner and ends up thicker than 15/30. Surely a better deal for a coupla bob extra? And by your own argument agricultural vehicles are not often subject to cold starts as they tend to be used all day (or not at all), so more reason to use a wider range multi-grade?
PS I mean wider range oil better in road going vehicles.


not exactly tru - it maintains its viscosity to lower and higher temperatures, but is not necessarily thinner or thicker.
 
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If so, I meant that 10w/40 starts out thinner than 15w/30 and ends up thicker than 15w/30. That`s what the numbers mean isn`t it? And I`m sure you know, but some others don`t ...NO it doesn`t mean it gets thicker as it gets hotter.
 
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I stand corrected. You are precise in the detail. I am guilty of sloppy terminology, but stand by my post that a 10w/40 is normally better than a 15w/30 for most everyday uses
 
lol - once again - beg to differ - only if you are using the engine outside of the 15w30 temperature ranges - ie if you are driving in temperatures of between -15 and -20 deg C or sustained driving at (nom)100deg C.

One has to ask the Q, if what yu say is correct - why dont oil companies (and users) only have 0w60 oil?
 
I stand by the fact that TUO is rated and approved by the engine manufacturers. I dont claim to be an expert on oil (or anything else,much) or what the numbers mean......my evidence is purely anecdotal . I know what I and other farmers,agricultural contractors and many hauliers do. When I was in haulage we used a large national truck part factors own brand diesel engine oil.I found an old drum the other day,it didnt even have numbers on.....just the approvals by engine manufacturers.Good for VERY cold starts and all other circumstances.It was basically the same as TUO.

GT, I am sure what you say about numbers and so on is perfectly correct. I know what I and others do and what happens when we do it. I wouldnt contradict or argue with you about the numbers.
 
Oil is like most things in life - peeps have preferences. The most important thing is regular changes. Personally 10w40 pr 15w30 will both be ok - just dont leave either in for 60000 miles!
 
TUO will be "thicker" at 15w than a 10w oil at low temperatures. A tractor/truck will normally only do one cold start a day, wheras a car/etc will do 2 or 3. A car will do much more cold running in it`s life than a truck, so cold start lub is relatively much more important. Also the additives used in multi grades (more in wider ranges) do break down over the life of an oil so multigrades have to changed more often than monogrades. So it makes perfect sense to use monogrades (high quality ones) in trucks etc to increase service intervals.
So Shocker you`re correct TUO is best for tractors & trucks, but surely not for everyday cars & Landies?
 
I suppose,GT,that it depends on how you use the vehicle.If it is a purely social,domestic or pleasure thing then the needs may be different.However, I had vans and 7.5 tonners on multidrop,starting and stopping repeatedly and they used the same oil as the rest. My discos are used for everything,farm,utility,towing,load carrying and family too.Personally I consider them more a commercial vehicle than a car.The 300 engine is certainly little different in essence from its BMC commercial ancestors.

So,as ever,horses for courses,diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks,and all that. Its IS interesting to hear about all the theory behind it....all I know about is the practice ! And not much about that either !!
 
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