P38A Diesel Auxillary Belt Tensioner

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Lukas018

Well-Known Member
Posts
633
Location
Sussex
Evening All,

I noticed when my engine was running the tensioner and arm were rocking up and down, more than I like, looks like there is too much movement between FIP cap and the arm, see photo.

I torqued the cap to RAVE if go any further will crack it like I did the last one.

Is there a washer or something that holds the arm in tighter or is the tensioner worn as I renewed it about a year ago?

Thanks,
 

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It does move/pivot on the axis.
tensioner shouldn’t be duff after a year? Cap shouldn’t be too tight, something may be jamming causing it to catch - I’d take belt off (careful with the fulcrum) and feel all the spinny bits like idlers/pulleys/pump see they are turning smoothly
 
It does move/pivot on the axis.
tensioner shouldn’t be duff after a year? Cap shouldn’t be too tight, something may be jamming causing it to catch - I’d take belt off (careful with the fulcrum) and feel all the spinny bits like idlers/pulleys/pump see they are turning smoothly
@RangeRoller dt thanks mate must be me will check it again.

On another note the blowers when on full blast probably only got about 70% power on full blast it went full blast for a second and cut down in power. The HEVAC is new seems like where they not run for a while or is it them bloody white connectors in drivers footwell? I need to cut them out and wire them direct.
 
@RangeRoller dt thanks mate must be me will check it again.

On another note the blowers when on full blast probably only got about 70% power on full blast it went full blast for a second and cut down in power. The HEVAC is new seems like where they not run for a while or is it them bloody white connectors in drivers footwell? I need to cut them out and wire them direct.
Fan speed is reduced when the coolant is cold.
 
Another thing worth mentioning, which has different views, is wether the tensioner should have oil in it like a ram. I’ve seen ones that say ‘keep this way up’ On them and mine had oil in it (but everything did after going upside down).
I 3/4 filled mine with 10w40 I had for the engine when I stripped it all
 
Another thing worth mentioning, which has different views, is wether the tensioner should have oil in it like a ram. I’ve seen ones that say ‘keep this way up’ On them and mine had oil in it (but everything did after going upside down).
I 3/4 filled mine with 10w40 I had for the engine when I stripped it all
I think they are like a spring loaded damper
 
Fan speed is reduced when the coolant is cold.
This was when the engine was warm mid-way on gauge left running for 20mins so I can do last stage of head bolt tightening. Air temp was ok. Think while car just needs good run.
 
Another thing worth mentioning, which has different views, is wether the tensioner should have oil in it like a ram. I’ve seen ones that say ‘keep this way up’ On them and mine had oil in it (but everything did after going upside down).
I 3/4 filled mine with 10w40 I had for the engine when I stripped it all
My one had that 'this way up'. From what your saying shall I remove it and check oil in it?
 
I decided oil wouldn’t hurt anything but no oil would if required.
I’d definitely take it off and check it shouldn’t be bouncing about and you may be covered for replacement (spare) if it fails before it’s time
Ok mate I will have a proper look and belt came loose a couple of times before thinking about it so gota go back through when I bought it.
 
I had a similar problem and it was the little bushes on the ends of the tensioner were very worn. Well I dont know how old the tensioner was either so it probably had little dampening effect left in it. It was so bad that occasionally at start up the tensioner would pivot over centre and stay released.
 
The belt tensioner does tend to appear bounce a little as it takes up the run out on the crank vibration damper. Or as the belt is loaded and unloaded. That is quite normal. What is not normal is if it moves to excess, then you need to be looking at the state of the crank damper. Plus your engine will not be cooled properly with a missing fan shroud.
 
+1 I tried few unorthodox methods to increase cooling, (removing acoustic shielding to help hotstart was the one that made Wammers chuckle) removing the fan shroud had a negative effect. Just kicks the air about instead of pulling it through. Some have little flaps on the sides too

That reminds me - I never got round to drilling holes in the grille :eek::)
 
Ok movement is not excessive.

Fan shroud yes it is important but my one has cracked and degraded so ordered a new one. Car not being driven as needs mot and track rod end.

How would you diagnose faulty damper apart from excess movement on the belt?
 
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