Is failing prop shaft bearings unsafe to drive?

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I did say to remove the filler plug first. This avoids being unable to refill, an already drained IRD. ;)

True though I did have to test the oil :) ah I’ll manage it off somehow, just so little room to get a good swing at it.

As long as it's 75w90 fully synthetic, then make is unimportant.
Fair enough.

Use whatever method you can, as it's now drained. You can replace the filler plugs, once you've got it out.
Cool.

Thanks
A
 
Yeh, as said, any way that works.

Some have used a chisel directly on the bolt - just hope you don't have to remove the IRD to do it.

Shame its drained as you could have taken it along to a workshop to 'offload' the problem.
 
Yeh, as said, any way that works.

Some have used a chisel directly on the bolt - just hope you don't have to remove the IRD to do it.

Shame its drained as you could have taken it along to a workshop to 'offload' the problem.
Yeh I didn’t quite realise how badly stuck a bolt could be, it’s rated at 35 Nm but seems like 350!!!!! Only bolt I’ve come across that don’t budge. The bolt is in good condition as I’ve been careful only to use 6 side socket, problem is there is very little room to get any kinda leverage to budge it.

Is chisel used to budge the bolt enough to get it moving ?

I’ve seen a video of a scissors jack being used to force a wrench turning a drain plug open but not sure enough space to do that here.

Thanks for feedback.
A
 
Is chisel used to budge the bolt enough to get it moving ?

They can be very stubborn indeed. I use my buzz gun to get them off, but even that struggles on occasion. I find that putting a close fitting socket, then striking the back of it with a 2Lb lump hammer does the trick. I think this compresses the alloy washer just enough to loosen the threads.
 
Have you tried some heat on it? I usually crack em off after a good run when ird is nice n warm..comes off a treat...
Thanks Jedi, I really like this idea, so simple! Duly noted right after don’t attempt ever to open drain nut until you open filler nut!
I actually drained the fluid to check if IRD was gone so now that it’s drained I’m in dry dock until I get the filler nut open.
I’ve ordered an impact wrench so fingers crossed!
 
They can be very stubborn indeed. I use my buzz gun to get them off, but even that struggles on occasion. I find that putting a close fitting socket, then striking the back of it with a 2Lb lump hammer does the trick. I think this compresses the alloy washer just enough to loosen the threads.

Thanks V6, would hitting the nut not damage the IRD casing/casting like breaking an Easter egg ?
 
Thanks V6, would hitting the nut not damage the IRD casing/casting like breaking an Easter egg ?
If you really smack it hard then yes, it's possible. However a firm strike shouldn't do anything to the casing, at least I've never broken one, and I've done it loads of times.
 
If you really smack it hard then yes, it's possible. However a firm strike shouldn't do anything to the casing, at least I've never broken one, and I've done it loads of times.

I’m going to replace all plugs - have the following reference numbers for IRD - do you happen to know the part number for the differential filler plug?

IRD filler plug TRL100060

IRD filler washer TFY101060

IRD drain plug TAS100000

IRD drain washer TFY101070

Many thanks,

Anthony
 
Good luck with the filler bolt. Last time I tried removing one I tried heat, hammering and chisel before I gave up, and yes I was using a good quality hex socket. You don't have that choice now its drained so assume it will be totally trashed by the time your finished and order a spare. You might be lucky but best have a spare to hand just in case.
 
A hand held impact driver may work too if very stubborn.. give it a good wack n crack it loose. Cheap to buy also.

Thanks J,

Have you a recommended brand / link for one? I’ve seen this looks good (450 Nm).

Tried tapping bolt today with a 2LB lump hammer no joy, tried oil spray etc, looks like the whole IRD is moving around the Bolt! Ordered replacement bolts, now just to get it off!
 

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Evening Gents,

Was doing some final checks on prop before ordering reconditioned VCU tomorrow and noticed the hardy spicer connecting rear prop to VCU has a bit of play in it. Is this a part you would recommend Land Rover original or would OEM do the job?

Many thanks,

A
 
Yeah comes with 1/2 drive, tried it tonight but just can’t get a decent swing at it with lump hammer.

Going to take off drivers side front wheel and try a breaker bar, or a jack, almost out of options!!!

Help !

A
 
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